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What do you do at the crag when a class "reserves" TR routes that they're not climbing?


Original Post
Greg Kommel · · Pomona, CA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 31

Hey MPers, I was at the crag today with a few friends and there was some kind of REI-type class on rappelling perhaps.  They had a large group, 10-15 people.  They were all grouped up in one area, and they had set up a couple TRs in a different area.  I yelled to them to ask if they were using them and they insisted that they were "about to climb on them".  I argued with them for a bit and then just gave up because they started sending some minions down to start using the routes that they had reserved.

In retrospect, I should have just started setting up my anchor instead of wasting my breath arguing with them.  What do you all do in situations like this?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Here we go.

Jordan Pitts · · kansas (the abyss) · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 195

Climb harder, don't go to noob infested "gym" crags. Easy as pie, but I heard cali is getting quite overrun these days.

m Mobes · · MDI, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 865

Climb.

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,959
. Mobes wrote: Climb.NAKED
FIFY
Chalk in the Wind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 3

Go home and make a pissy post on MP.

m Mobes · · MDI, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 865
Suburban Roadside wrote: FIFY

Rolling up and smoking a big fatty with no pants on while warming up with some Yoga probably would work.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210
Greg Kommel wrote:  They were all grouped up in one area, and they had set up a couple TRs in a different area.
Climb somewhere else.  If it wasn’t a guide-organized event, you could ask to hop on their ropes (pretty common practice in TRing crags), but they most likely would have to say “no” due to liability issues.  You have no more right to the rock than anyone else and they got there first, so...sorry, you’re SOL.
Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 496

Climb harder and this is a non issue.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,196

Hey, I was one of the guides for the group. You were extremely rude to a group you know nothing about. Those people were a group of make a wish foundation recipients with their loved ones there for support, and your yelling spoiled the ambiance for people who have so little time left.

Nah. Just kidding.

Yeah, I’d just make a post about it later. Honestly, I’d probably be a little ticked off but try to work around them or find a different area.

Fredrik Ehne · · Stockholm, Sweden · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
Colonel Mustard wrote: Hey, I was one of the guides for the group. You were extremely rude to a group you know nothing about. Those people were a group of make a wish foundation recipients with their loved ones there for support, and your yelling spoiled the ambiance for people who have so little time left.

Nah. Just kidding.

Yeah, I’d just make a post about it later. Honestly, I’d probably be a little ticked off but try to work around them or find a different area.

Dude, you shouldn't have backed out from an excellent troll.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,510
Greg Kommel wrote: Hey MPers, I was at the crag today with a few friends and there was some kind of REI-type class on rappelling perhaps.  They had a large group, 10-15 people.  They were all grouped up in one area, and they had set up a couple TRs in a different area.  I yelled to them to ask if they were using them and they insisted that they were "about to climb on them".  I argued with them for a bit and then just gave up because they started sending some minions down to start using the routes that they had reserved.

In retrospect, I should have just started setting up my anchor instead of wasting my breath arguing with them.  What do you all do in situations like this?

Complain to REI.

C Archibolt · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 877

Depends, do you want to be right or do you want to be happy? 

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1

Dude you are in CALIFORNIA, there is so much rock, pick another place.

In MN there is a legitimate reason to be upset. At the closest trad area, there are maybe 50 climbs, not all have cracks for leading so if you want a TR something, you have to get there early.

When VE or REI has a group, be nice, talk to the guides, and MOST times they will let you climb their ropes.  When I TR solo, I often just ask them if they mind if I take a quick trip up their rope. Never had them say no.

Josh Lipko · · Charlotte · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 10

#topropeproblems

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,040
Greg Kommel wrote: Hey MPers, I was at the crag today with a few friends and there was some kind of REI-type class on rappelling perhaps.  They had a large group, 10-15 people.  They were all grouped up in one area, and they had set up a couple TRs in a different area.  I yelled to them to ask if they were using them and they insisted that they were "about to climb on them".  I argued with them for a bit and then just gave up because they started sending some minions down to start using the routes that they had reserved.

In retrospect, I should have just started setting up my anchor instead of wasting my breath arguing with them.  What do you all do in situations like this?

1) "Yelling to them" may have been a mistake. In general, if you walk up and say hello first, talk face-to-face, instead of yelling at them from across the crag, people would be much more willing to accommodate you. Especially if you offer to re-hang their ropes (in case you need to take their ropes down to climb), and promise to be quick (assuming you actually have the ability to be quick). You interpret their actions as "sending minions over to start using the ropes"... but that's exactly what they told you they were going to do. They said they were about to climb, and they did... I think if they told you that they were going to climb, you had stuck around, doing something else, and an hour later they still weren't climbing the TR route, you'd have more reasons for grumbling.

2) "just setting up your TR anchor" over someone else's TR anchor is a dick move. You might be able to get away with it, because it is unlikely that they would tackle you or otherwise bodily prevent you from doing it, but you will not have a good time, pretty much guaranteed. Do you really want to climb the route so badly, and is the route so spectacular, that you would still be enjoying yourself if there are people arguing/yelling at you & your belayer, while you are climbing?

3) I've never been in a situation where other routes/crags weren't readily available, so climbing something else would be my choice, over 1 or DEFINITELY over 2. 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
bruno-cx wrote:

Mountain Project is REI.  Look at the top left corner.  

It's so quaint that people think REI actually pays attention to the forum content.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210
C Archibolt wrote: Depends, do you want to be right or do you want to be happy? 

Dude, this needs to be a bumper sticker, if it’s not already.

S2k 4life · · My van · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 126

I ask them if i can climb it.. if they say there using it... then i find something else.
I think It would be polite and good ethic to remember in some cases like this the people may be customers paying good money to be out there and or they could be less fortunate then most of us in the fact they do not have the gear/skills/time to go outside and set up climbs or climb very often. Soo i would just give them there space , everybody is out there to have fun

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1
Cobra Wrestlr wrote: I ask them if i can climb it.. if they say there using it... then i find something else.
I think It would be polite and good ethic to remember in some cases like this the people may be customers paying good money to be out there and or they could be less fortunate then most of us in the fact they do not have the gear/skills to go outside and set up climbs or just climb very often. Soo i would just give them there space , everybody is out there to have fun

Plus, most of them will have a massive pump after the first climb and be unable to continue. But the ropes will continue to hang until the class is over. That is why you  must make nice right off the bat.

Two years ago I went to do some TR soloing, and ended up climbing three routes because the group was all just milling around, I asked to either pull their ropes or use them, they said go ahead and use them. They were a little surprised I didn't have a partner, tied in, clipped the running side through my grigri and climbed up. Self lowered and did the next one, and the next one.  
Andy Eiter · · Madison, WI · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 126

I think it's neat when people are introduced to a sport that brings me a lot of joy.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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