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Brazil/rio de Janeiro guide books?


Original Post
Kief Manning · · Elgin, AZ · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Heading to Rio de Janeiro in a few months anyone know of any guidebooks (in English) or any other sources beyond MP?
Cheers

Matt Carmody · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 424

When will you be going down? I just arrived a week ago and hope to be bouncing around in Brazil until mid June.

In terms of resources, I haven't found much online in English or in the states. If you read Portuguese it opens up more doors, but I haven't found that much online even in Portuguese. This website seems to be intended to be a similar resource as MP in Brazil though it doesn't seem to have a ton of users: http://forumdeescalada.com.br/index.php 

I had a friend in Brazil mail me a couple guide books, one of which turned out to be bilingual, and a Brazilian friend in my city gave me a couple of his to use. I didn't have any luck finding any easily accessible in the states.

Kief Manning · · Elgin, AZ · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks Matt. I have found about the same. Unfortunately my Portuguese is non existent. I will just try and find some resources once I get there I guess

Cheers

Matt Carmody · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 424

This is another Brazilian resource for route information I've been using: http://www.carioca.org.br/croqui/cec/index_a.htm 
I've also found that rockclimbing has more route info than MP at the moment: http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/South_and_Central_America/Brazil/ 

If it's worth it to you I can buy a bilingual guidebook or two and mail them up to you. Feel free to contact me directly if you're interested in that. I should be able to get my hands on additional copies of these two Rio guidebooks that cover different parts of the city:
https://www.climbclean.com.br/Livro---URCA---Guia-de-Escaladas---Flavio-Daflon-e-Delson-de-Queiroz~458~40~1~Linhas~Livros
https://www.climbclean.com.br/Livro---Guia-de-Escaladas-e-Trilhas-FLORESTA-DA-TIJUCA---Flavio-Daflon-e-Delson-de-Queiroz~459~40~1~Linhas~Livros 
I know the Floresta guide is bilingual, though I'm not sure about the Urca guide.

Kief Manning · · Elgin, AZ · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Hey Matt. Thanks for all the great research. I got in touch with a guide and will be picking up some books when we get there. Thanks for all your help!

Darrin Stein · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 365

Will either of you be there April 27th?

carla splitter · · San Jose, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 111

Definitely check out Tres Picos area when you're there.. Multipitch (mostly bolted) climbing ~3 hours from Rio. You'll barely see anyone. One of my favorite places to climb, enjoy!! There is an out of print guidebook for Salinas that can probably be found at Republica Tres Picos (sort of a climber camp): https://www.facebook.com/Rep%C3%BAblica-Tr%C3%AAs-Picos-Paulo-Mascarin-1738905046335888/

Sergio Tartari (co-author for guia de Salinas) put up a lot of the routes in the Tres Picos area and he still lives out there, making beer and pizza. Climbers are welcome to his property and he'll show you the guidebook if you want. I hear a new one is in the works, but like most..is taking quite a while. If you contact Mascarin at Republica, he'll let you know where to go.

This book is English/Portuguese and has some good stuff: https://www.companhiadaescalada.com.br/pt/livros-de-montanhismo-escalada/50-vias-classicas-no-brasil/

I have pictures for some topos in the Tres Picos area as well, pm me if you'd like. I also have a few guidebooks for climbing around Lencois/Chapada Diamantina (in the state of Bahia) and don't mind sharing info from these. Super fun sport climbing on conglomerate. I highly recommend traveling to that area if you have the time. The most beautiful hikes I went on were in this part of the country.

Ben Clark · · La Crosse, WI · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 25

I'll be in Rio for a conference 5/16 - 24 and then free all day from 5/25 - 6/2. Will have 70m rope and draws with personal gear, may bring the rack if I can fit it in the luggage. Looking for people to climb with either in Rio or Três Picos.

Thanks for the beta Carla, I'd be interested in getting some of the topos you have for Salinas.

Matt Carmody · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 424
Darrin Stein wrote: Will either of you be there April 27th?

Sorry Darrin, missed your message. I'll be in Brazil, where specifically I'm not sure yet! My best guess would be somewhere in São Paulo. Where did you have in mind?

Matt Carmody · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 424

Thanks for sharing Carla! How accessible is Tres Picos without a car?


Ben, I should be able to overlap your time in Rio after your conference, if not the entire time you're there! I'm flexible on the exact destination if you want to explore other areas, but I don't have a car here.
carla splitter · · San Jose, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 111
Matt Carmody wrote:

Thanks for sharing Carla! How accessible is Tres Picos without a car?


Ben, I should be able to overlap your time in Rio after your conference, if not the entire time you're there! I'm flexible on the exact destination if you want to explore other areas, but I don't have a car here.

You definitely will need a car to get to Tres Picos. It's about 3-3 1/2 hours from Rio de Janeiro proper and you need to take a somewhat rough road to get there. Maybe it's possible to take public transportation to Nova Friburgo and arrange something there. but it is not that close by. If you want to climb there I highly recommend trying to get to Republica Tres Picos, that's basically where all the approaches start anyhow.

Ben, I do have topos for Tres Picos and Morro de Gato, but I realize I don't have anything showing approaches. Mascarin at Republica could probably tell you how to get to the base of routes, but also, he does not really speak english. I imagine the time of year you'll be there other climbers may be in the area. If you only do one route, Face Leste is the one you want. When I went I got a guide with climbinrio (climbinrio.com/site/). They're really nice and do a lot for the community, especially underprivileged youth that live in the favelas. If you can afford it I really recommend supporting those folks. At the very least, maybe send them a message and they could set you right.

Also, from my experience there, you probably wouldn't really need more than a single rack. Basically everything is bolted! If you were to venture to Lencois there is a lot of opportunity for FAs with trad gear, but climbing with cams/nuts in Brazil isn't too popular, but that's just the impression I got. I think MP has a route for Pai Inacio that takes trad gear.

Good luck! I'm happy to share more info about Rio/surrounding areas, climbing or non-climbing related.

ETA: found this link also: http://croquitecafriburgo.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_1.html
Darrin Stein · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 365
Matt Carmody wrote:

Sorry Darrin, missed your message. I'll be in Brazil, where specifically I'm not sure yet! My best guess would be somewhere in São Paulo. Where did you have in mind?

No worries.  I went ahead and scheduled a trip with Climb In Rio.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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