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Interchangeability of adhesive mixing nozzles from different brands?


Original Post
Nick M · · Driggs, ID · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 115

Just to save me some trial and error, thought I'd see if anyone else knows.  Powers vs. Simpson vs. Sika vs. whatever/generic brands.  I have some powers glue and am looking to pickup more nozzles...looks like I can get other brand nozzles for a lot cheaper.  Best I can tell, anchoring adhesive nozzle attachment/threads look pretty standardized, but I'm not sure.  1:1 mix ratio, about 7/8" female threads.

Thanks

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

They are pretty well worldwide 7/8" x 9 threads apart from the wierd ones. However beware that they can have different numbers of mixing elements and this can make a difference, we had some US made resin for testing (it was sold in the UK) and the curing with the supplied nozzles was terrible, the supplied nozzles were 10 element ones and we changed to 14 element ones and had no further problems. Whether the nozzles were originally from the USA or sourced elsewhere we don´t know.
Usually for us the nozzles with more mixing elements (the number of "squiggles" in the plastic bits) come with ETA (European Technical Approval) and the cheapo ten-element ones don´t.

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,823

Just checked and the Powers (Dewalt) ones have 14 elements.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

We never found out the cause (who supplied the nozzles), the resin was Simson if I remeber rightly and the cavers in the UK were testing it with poor results so I got some as well. Mixed throught the supplied nozzles it never really went properly hard, squeezed out and mixed by hand it cured perfectly so I changed to the stock nozzles we use and it was fine. We talked to the suppliers and they changed the nozzles but where the fault lay they didn´t say.
If you look at a cartridge and nozzle companies catalogue there´s hundreds of the things, right up to 40 element ones all designed for diffrent resin mixes and resins. The 14´s are the way to go for most resins I´d reckon. If in doubt squirt it in the hole and mix the resin with a piece of wire!

Bobby Hutton · · Gold Country CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 824

Please share if you find a cheap source for the appropriate nozzles.

Nick M · · Driggs, ID · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 115

Thanks all.  I'll update as I find/try stuff.  Oddly enough by far the best deal I found is legit Powers nozzles from ClimbTech:

http://www.climbtechgear.com/mixing-nozzles-for-powers-ac100-gold-2-pack/

Random internet finds that look promising (but I have not tried) are:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DZLP4Y/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6IKZN9/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A3NQHT7SJ834OX&psc=1

Sam Skovgaard · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 87

Noob gluing question:  while I assume you only get one gluing session out of each nozzle, can you reseal glue tubes if you're only doing a few bolts per session?  Or do you need a whole new glue tube each session?

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Sam Skovgaard wrote: Noob gluing question:  while I assume you only get one gluing session out of each nozzle, can you reseal glue tubes if you're only doing a few bolts per session?  Or do you need a whole new glue tube each session?

Jusr reseal the tube (I normally don't even bother and just leave the old nozzle on until I need the tube again. Important is check before you fit new nozzle is check there's no hardened bit waiting to block it, I squeeze a little bit out and wipe it off before fitting the nozzle.

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 612
Sam Skovgaard wrote: Noob gluing question:  while I assume you only get one gluing session out of each nozzle, can you reseal glue tubes if you're only doing a few bolts per session?  Or do you need a whole new glue tube each session?

Yes, you can just leave the used nozzle in place, or take it off and put on the cap that came with the packet.  

But before putting on the new nozzle, use a small stick and clean out any hardened flakes/clumps/bits of glue from output of the packet.  They could clog the nozzle.

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,823

And don't forget that you need to make sure that it's mixing properly - typically 3 full pulls of the glue - every time you install a new nozzle. Nice trick is to put that in a small ziplock in your bag/bucket, makes it easy to see if it hardened up.

Eric Berghorn · · Calistoga,CA · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 678

Since this has not been mentioned I think the best practice is to also always keep a partially used glue cartridge with remaining glue installed WITHIN the glue gun, with the trigger and pushrod NOT disengaged from the partially used canister in between sessions. That way you can just switch to a new nozzle when you resume working the next time.

If you take the canister out of glue gun in between sessions and than re-install it, the plastic tabs which normally guide the pushrod can easily jam up inside during subsequent usage and it’s very difficult to re-align them once they are compromised. You”ll be out there cranking away on the trigger wondering why your not getting any glue to fill your hole (when you know there is remaining glue in the cartridge.) 

  • Cranking on the trigger may not help much if this happens and in the worst scenario you may not be able to properly complete the process of filling the hole due to technical difficulties... Glue drying in a 1/2 filled hole, botched placement, etc. could easily result if you don’t have another brand new cartridge to replace on hand.
drewp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 825

recently found out the hard way that Set-XP nozzles don't fit sika anchorfix/redhead tubes. You can still kind of mash them on and seal it with tape.... but maybe not ideal.

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 612
Eric Berghorn wrote: Since this has not been mentioned I think the best practice is to also always keep a partially used glue cartridge with remaining glue installed WITHIN the glue gun, with the trigger and pushrod NOT disengaged from the partially used canister in between sessions. That way you can just switch to a new nozzle when you resume working the next time.

If you take the canister out of glue gun in between sessions and than re-install it, the plastic tabs which normally guide the pushrod can easily jam up inside during subsequent usage and it’s very difficult to re-align them once they are compromised. You”ll be out there cranking away on the trigger wondering why your not getting any glue to fill your hole (when you know there is remaining glue in the cartridge.) 
  • Cranking on the trigger may not help much if this happens and in the worst scenario you may not be able to properly complete the process of filling the hole due to technical difficulties... Glue drying in a 1/2 filled hole, botched placement, etc. could easily result if you don’t have another brand new cartridge to replace on hand.

This is only true with those cheap glues, but yes, I was surprised/screwed by it: a total PITA.   

I know I'm one of the few who's willing to pay extra for Hilti RE-500, but it doesn't have this problem nor any of the other dozen problems the cheap glues have.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Eric Berghorn wrote: Since this has not been mentioned I think the best practice is to also always keep a partially used glue cartridge with remaining glue installed WITHIN the glue gun, with the trigger and pushrod NOT disengaged from the partially used canister in between sessions. That way you can just switch to a new nozzle when you resume working the next time.

If you take the canister out of glue gun in between sessions and than re-install it, the plastic tabs which normally guide the pushrod can easily jam up inside during subsequent usage and it’s very difficult to re-align them once they are compromised. You”ll be out there cranking away on the trigger wondering why your not getting any glue to fill your hole (when you know there is remaining glue in the cartridge.) 
  • Cranking on the trigger may not help much if this happens and in the worst scenario you may not be able to properly complete the process of filling the hole due to technical difficulties... Glue drying in a 1/2 filled hole, botched placement, etc. could easily result if you don’t have another brand new cartridge to replace on hand.

What cartridges are you using? I've never experienced any problem with all the various 380/400ml ones I've tried and don't know what the plastic tabs you are referring to are either.

Nick M · · Driggs, ID · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 115
Eric Berghorn wrote: Since this has not been mentioned I think the best practice is to also always keep a partially used glue cartridge with remaining glue installed WITHIN the glue gun, with the trigger and pushrod NOT disengaged from the partially used canister in between sessions. That way you can just switch to a new nozzle when you resume working the next time.

If you take the canister out of glue gun in between sessions and than re-install it, the plastic tabs which normally guide the pushrod can easily jam up inside during subsequent usage and it’s very difficult to re-align them once they are compromised. You”ll be out there cranking away on the trigger wondering why your not getting any glue to fill your hole (when you know there is remaining glue in the cartridge.) 
  • Cranking on the trigger may not help much if this happens and in the worst scenario you may not be able to properly complete the process of filling the hole due to technical difficulties... Glue drying in a 1/2 filled hole, botched placement, etc. could easily result if you don’t have another brand new cartridge to replace on hand.


Hell yes!!!! Just learned this the hard way yesterday!  God damnit, that sucked.  Those plastic guide tabs got me good.  Dewalt AC100+ Gold.  
Eric Berghorn · · Calistoga,CA · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 678

To Jim Titt and Nick: It was Dewalt AC100 Gold ! Concur Nick ! I’m sure this has been discussed elsewhere, but I hope others might take notice and avoid this particular scenario  !

Nick M · · Driggs, ID · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 115


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