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Siurana Beta and Recommended Routes

Original Post
K-Tanz · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 205

Hey everyone!

I am planning on a week in Siurana in late March, Early April. I bought the Siurana guidebook, which was apparently updated just last year. The book seems comprehensive, but there's no star ratings and with the density of routes it is almost TOO comprehensive.

I am looking to get on sport lines up to mid 5.12 (7b?). I would prefer limestone over the sandstone. I would be psyched on some big tufas, but really am open to anything. I am just not looking actively seeking crimptastic overhung bouldery stuff as I am at the tail end of rehabbing a pulley injury I am a fan of long routes with a lot of bang for your buck. With the density and number of area and routes I was hoping to get some guidance regarding some good sectors or specific routes to check out.

Additionally, I will be flying solo and am curious about the best place to meet other climbers. I was considering staying at "The Refugio" but have heard some mixed information regarding whether or not it is open.

Thanks so much, any input is much appreciated!

Lucas · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 22

Siurana in general is not as steep or bouldery as neighboring margalef. The routes in the 12 range are definitely crimpy though and the steepness in that gradfe is pretty darn close to vertical. There are not really any tufas in siurana, especially not in the 12 RANGE. Chulilla is where you would want to go for steeper tufa climbing at 5.12.
  Siurana is stacked however, "siurana central" sector has great 7a-7b climbs. the right side of El Pati sector has 4 great moderate routes, hey mamita 7a, viagra man, 6c+, el prado del ray 7B+, and another calssic soft 7a+ thats super fun with a 7c extension.    to the right of that a few hundred feet is mandrogora 7b+ a crag classic. cant remember the name of this sector with mandrogora, but it is also stacked in the 7a range.
  no one seems to climb the sandstone crags below the limestone, although it does look cool.

K-Tanz · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 205

Good beta, thanks! I need to  balance my love for the tufa with finding partners. Anyone have any idea about the best spots to meet fellow climbers? Upon further investigation it seems like the Refugi is open and you just email them to make a reservation. Is this a good place to start the partner search? 

BJ Sbarra · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 666

A couple more thoughts for you. I'd be hesitant to head to Siurana after a pulley injury, it's all crimps and pockets. Also, the Valley crags seemed to be more modern and have better bolting than the Village crags, some of the old school routes had some pretty serious run outs on them. 

If you can find the 2016 guidebook from Toni Arbones, it does have star ratings, though this feature seems to be absent from most Euro guidebooks.

For partners, try Goma 2, the gear shop, restaurant and general climber hub.

Have fun if you go, it's a great zone. I thought the climbing was full on, definitely no "vacation grades."

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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