Route Manufacturing - opinion survey for article
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Climbing Magazine is going to run an article on the topic of manufactured routes. You can let your opinions be known by taking a quick survey. |
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Bump for an interesting thought piece, takes just a few minutes and makes you think a little. |
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Done |
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Jaren Watson wrote: I've climbed on a few manufacturered routes around Colorado Springs (old pieces cut by the US Army for trainings in the 50s or 60s) and some of them have actually been kinda fun as a result. That being said I'm not I'm not advocating for new routes to be chopped into nice sandstone, but it is an interesting relic of days past. |
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I dont understand that changing or modifiying the existing rock is such a no-no by most of yhe climbing community. I know nature should not be destroyed or defaced by man etc. but what harm is it really changing the rock to have a few holds? |
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Done-zo, nothing about chipping gym projects? Hmm, I guess I'm the only one??? |
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Odd that the survey makes no mention of Via Ferrata. |
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kenr wrote: Odd that the survey makes no mention of Via Ferrata. Or bigwall |
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Instead of chopping their bolts, we'll have to paste the mountain back together again. |
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kenr wrote: Odd that the survey makes no mention of Via Ferrata. I assume this is in the context of U.S. climbing where we really don't have VFs. I feel this is an important discussion and I hope it can stay civil and on topic (unlike the thread that likely spurred this survey.) |
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Thanks for the link. |
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North Col wrote: I dont understand that changing or modifiying the existing rock is such a no-no by most of yhe climbing community. I know nature should not be destroyed or defaced by man etc. but what harm is it really changing the rock to have a few holds? By permanently changing the rock you are permanently removing the opportunity for everyone to climb it in its natural state, and if you just aren't strong enough is pretty selfish to remove that opportunity from anyone who is. Most people I think will agree that climbing on natural features is better than a manufactured route, and instead of saying you need to improve yourself to do the climb, you change the climb to your level |
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Setting aside my opinion of manufacturing routes, here is a thought experiment: |
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Lena chita wrote: If a hold is manufactured or not, do you want to bet that most people who are outraged about hold manufacturing in Tensleep, without ever having set a foot in Tensleep, would actually not be able to tell? You are completely missing the point. |
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Sloppy Second wrote: No, I am not, which is why I started by saying that I’m going to set aside my opinion or hold manufacturing for this question. |
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Here is the thing. If you ever climbed limestone or volcanic tuff, you have climbed routes that were at least to a degree manufactured and/or enhanced. It's just that if it's skillfully done it isn't all that noticeable. |
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Sloppy Second wrote: Lena chita wrote: Ignoring that you said you'd set aside your opinion and then explicitly stated in your post "My opinion: not many" (and even though the two opinions refer to different things, opinion of manufacturing holds vs. opinion of whether people would noticing manufactured holds, your opinion about one is informed by your opinion about the other and thus, is a stated opinion) You're missing the point in your "If a hold is manufactured or not, do you want to bet that most people who are outraged about hold manufacturing in Tensleep, without ever having set a foot in Tensleep, would actually not be able to tell?" statement because you switch the argument over to whether one realizes the manufacturing takes place instead of the actual point which is the ethical and moral perception of manufacturing itself. You created a typical strawman argument and got pissed when you were called out. Here's a fun thought experiment for you: Let's say that a thread is started regarding whether it is right to kill people. You come on and (without stating your opinion about killing of course) say what if a person kills a bunch of homeless people throughout the country and nobody notices? Did you miss the point of whether killing is right or wrong? I'll let you answer it. Hint: the answer is yes. Now with manufacturing holds, this is in line with Messner's "killing the impossible" which is a high level conceptual argument based upon thinking abstractly. Just because nobody would notice that the impossible has been killed, that doesn't have any relation to right or wrong of that killing. |
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Troy . wrote: Is it okay to chip holds off thought? :) Only as a thought experiment. ;) |
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It's not rocket science, it's just a dick thing to do even without invoking Messner. |
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kevin deweese wrote: I think you are inferring my emotional state from your own. I’m not pissed at anyone. I didn’t think this needed to be restated, but here you go, just for you: 1) manufacturing holds is wrong2) there is a difference between comfortizing the edge/cleaning an existing hold, and drilling/chipping a new hold in a blank wall, and this difference is not subtle. Having said that, I still think that most people who take the strongest absolutist stance on not altering the rock ever have no idea that they are climbing/enjoying the rock that had been altered in the way they profess to abhor. |
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I feel like natural rock routes are a limited resource; there are a finite amount of them. And manufacturing a route outdoors necessarily means destroying—or removing if destroying is too extreme for you—a natural route. |