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Sport Climbing Kit - Am I missing anything?


Blake Neville · · Lexington, KY · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 57
Adam Ronchetti wrote:

I would do a 9.8 rope (60m). Maybe even a 10.1. Depends how many falls you plan to take on it. The larger diameter the rope has the more falls it can take...

Didn't realize people ever planned on falling.  Plus, false claim on the diameter thing.  I believe I read somewhere that this is a lot more dependent on sheath percentage, rope elongation, dirt in rope, etc. (fact check me on this).

I'd recommend having a basic ATC for rappelling after cleaning and a second belay device (ATC guide, xp, or gri gri) for actually belaying. 

+1 for the first ATC, any more is merely overkill unless you plan on needed to use 2 at the same time (give to someone else to rap with you).  Would definitely suggest a gri gri if you're already a competent belayer though. If not, keep practicing w the ATC and buy one once you are.  I'd much rather have a belayer that took care and paid attention than one that just smacked on a gri gri and grabbed a cookie and coke while I was climbing. It's handsfree right?

Brad Johnson · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

Ditch the PAS.  A stick clip is key though.  Especially when your confidence isn't there yet and you have some high first bolts.  

J.T. Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

Thanks everyone for the advice! Really appreciate it. I’ve found a little thicker rope around 9.8 to get, and I do have a regular atc and grigri. I should be getting enough cord to make a Prusik loop and still have enough to make a top rope anchor when I’m with people that don’t want to lead.

Blake Neville · · Lexington, KY · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 57
Brad Johnson wrote:...A stick clip is key though.  Especially when your confidence isn't there yet and you have some high first bolts.  

Even if confidence is there...

I've fallen on some stupid easy moves with 15ft high first bolts that I thankfully touched with the end of my stick first.
J.T. Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0
Marc H wrote:

A trad rack.

Ha ha, one day!

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 523
J.T. Harris wrote: Thanks everyone for the advice! Really appreciate it. I’ve found a little thicker rope around 9.8 to get, and I do have a regular atc and grigri. I should be getting enough cord to make a Prusik loop and still have enough to make a top rope anchor when I’m with people that don’t want to lead.

Don't use the same cord for prusik loops and anchor building. For prusik loops you want 5mm cord but for anchors you want 6mm or 7mm. 

J.T. Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0
eli poss wrote:

Don't use the same cord for prusik loops and anchor building. For prusik loops you want 5mm cord but for anchors you want 6mm or 7mm. 

Ok good to know.

Brad Johnson · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Blake Neville wrote:

Even if confidence is there...

I've fallen on some stupid easy moves with 15ft high first bolts that I thankfully touched with the end of my stick first.

I agree, however a 15ft high first bolt is a lot more intimidating when you first begin. That being said, I still clip 75% of first bolts that I climb. 

Travis S · · Texas · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 10

I disagree with everyone saying to ditch the PAS. Especially those citing that the slings are "cheaper". The PAS is nice to have and useful, additionally nothing is cheaper than the gear the OP ALREADY has. So before this boils down to another PAS thread on how much they suck, I just want to point out that my main point is that the PAS already in possession is cheaper than "ditching it" and buying more slings...

Brad Johnson · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Travis S wrote: I disagree with everyone saying to ditch the PAS. Especially those citing that the slings are "cheaper". The PAS is nice to have and useful, additionally nothing is cheaper than the gear the OP ALREADY has. So before this boils down to another PAS thread on how much they suck, I just want to point out that my main point is that the PAS already in possession is cheaper than "ditching it" and buying more slings...

Great point, however according to his post he doesn't own the PAS yet.  While I find them useful at times def not needed for sport. 

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,269

"You can never own too many lockers imo"...

AMEN!!!...

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Blake Neville wrote: Didn't realize people ever planned on falling.
Sport climbing. It's how you get better.
a d · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5
Old lady H wrote: A really trusted belayer who knows how to belay a lead is the primary piece of gear for me.

Can't underscore this enough.  Not only will it give you more sending confidence, but will keep you much safer.  In my experience, more people than not are crappy belayers for one reason or another, especially if they started their climbing careers in a gym.  Don't be bashful about asking people to explain their belay technique.

Matt N · · Santa Barbara, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 354

Here: https://shop.epictv.com/en/single-ropes/tendon/smart-lite-98?sku=TENS17_ROPSM98_GRE60 
if you want longer lasting top rope biners (and cleaner ropes), grab one each of:
https://shop.epictv.com/en/non-locking-carabiners/edelrid/bulletproof-straight?sku=EDES18_CARBUST_SLA
https://shop.epictv.com/en/carabiners/edelrid/bulletproof-screw?sku=EDES18_CARBUSC_OAS
(I prefer one locking draw if multiple people will be TRing on a route, vs two quickdraws)

add another cheap locker and biner for your TR draws. Buy two 60cm nylon slings and those are your anchor draws. Extend when needed to prevent rope wear on some routes, etc.

sign up for their emails to get $5 off your first order. Use code "10EXTRA" caps matters, and you just bought a 60m rope for $72
make sure to hit $100 for free shipping and beware you might have to pay 3%ish money exchange rate unless you have a capital one, discover or other CC without forex fees.

Ethan Hyde · · Portland, OR · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0
J.T. Harris wrote: So I’m getting my own gear for sport climbing for the first time and so far this is what I’ve got on the list, am I missing anything or do you have any suggestions of something that could be added?

Items marked with * I already own

- 9.4 Climbing Rope
- 12 12cm Quickdraws
- Crag Bag
- PAS
- Cordlette
- 4 Screwgate Carabiners
- Belay Gloves
- Climbing Helmet
- Harness*
- Climbing Shoes*
- Belay Device and Screwgate Biner*
- Chalk Bag and chalk*
- Tape*
- Brush*

Getting a rope with a dry treatment is definitely worth the extra money in my opinion. A 9.8 would be a bit better. 

SeƱor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

What are your 4 screwgate lockers for? Why no loose regular biners? I tend to find those more helpful to have around. Also, bring a couple crappy old biners for bailing.

I'd get more than 12 draws, but maybe that's just where I climb. Maybe buy another 6 pack of longer (typically 17 or 20 cm) draws?

Stick clips are awesome for sport climbing. I used to feel snobby and superior about them. Now I LOVE stick clipping first and/or 2nd bolts. And they're great for bailing upward which helps you learn a lot more than just bailing. 

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 523
Señor Arroz wrote: And they're great for bailing upward which helps you learn a lot more than just bailing.

NOOOOOOO! How am I supposed to collect bail biners if everybody starts bailing upwards. Seriously, though, you're more likely to learn a lesson if you bail and leave a full quickdraw like a gumby because then you're out like 10 to 15 bucks. If you bail upwards, then there's no penalty and you are less likely to learn. 

Zacks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 65

They person talking about falls doesn't understand how the uiaa fall rating works.  You don't retire a rope after a number of falls.  Do a search if you want to know more it's been discussed

Figure out what people at your local crag do for rope length.  A 70m rope is the standard at my spot, yours may differ

As for PAS vs slings I prefer slings but check with your friends.  If they all go slings they will laugh at your pas.  If they all rock the pas then they will teach you to clean using a pas (and not laugh at you)

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Ethan Hyde wrote:

Getting a rope with a dry treatment is definitely worth the extra money in my opinion.

I used to believe that, too. It adds minor benefits for the expense and wears off on rock pretty quickly - as in under 2 dozen days.


Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 11

I think a 70m rope is the new standard.  I used to get 50m ropes, because hey, I live in Minnesota, but I got sick of having to either trail another rope or a tag line when I went to CA or CO.

But for just about every climb I just did in CO/SD, a 70M was a huge benefit. Many climbs you would need to bring another rope and rap if you didn't have a 70M rope.

Just buy a 70M, you will not regret the extra $20 or so you will spend. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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