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Rebuilding my trad rack...if you were starting over, what cams?


Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35

Color anodized biners coordinated with the cam colors. Finally after over a decade of trad climbing I achieved this a couple years ago. I wish I had it sooner. 

Live Perched · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 5

In the gunks we climb with three sizes of metolius master cams: 00, 0 and 1.  As soon as we started placing them we stopped placing BD 3cus.  In larger sizes we have totems, bds , DMMs and WCs; All are great, but if size and $s are a decision factor look hard at the Master Cams.  Shoot if I had more space in my apartment and more f u money, I would buy a full rack of master cams because I like the three I have so damn much.

Albi Eds · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 26
Jaren Watson wrote: Micro: Dragonflies
Small: Totems
Medium: Friends
Large: 2019 BD c4s.


I'm doing most of this except a mix of Friends and Dragons for the mediums. I'll definitely be trying out the dragonflys. I have gone with this combo for a balance in the maximum range per piece, lightest in weight and utility of each piece be it for air or extra extensions.

Have a black totem, plan to either get the Blue & Yellow Totems down the line and pair with my BD C3s (Red & Yellow).

.4 and .5 Friends, .75 and #1 Dragons and #2-5 2019 BD.

I double my rack with a set of UL BD Cams .4-4 and use those paired with DMM torque hexes to keep my rack super light for alpine endeavors.

For the passive pro offset DMMs and tricams.
Alicia Sokolowski · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,125

Whatever you buy, consider getting them at Rock and Snow.  They price match, and they have a punch card where once you buy so many cams, you get one free!

Sean Post · · Laguna Beach, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 24

Triples of every size of Tricam. Spring-loaded cams are fake and will kill you.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0
Jeffo wrote: I am rebuilding my trad rack after selling all my lead gear in 2016.  

Even thought I’ve never owned them (previous rack consisted of Camelot’s, X4s, Metolius cams) i’m Eyeing up the DMM Dragons.  I love the idea of the extendable sling on these.

If you were starting over, what would YOU buy?

Thanks!

Exactly what happened to me, got old and fat and hurt, sold the rack and then decided I should give it another go.

Rebought BD C4 (.4 to #4) and Dragon 2 (.3 to #4) along with some older TCU's I didn't sell, I will replace those with Dragonfly's when they are available. The Dragons are my favorite. I would buy the Metolius Master cam if they were on sale when I was looking instead of the C4.

Don't need the hexes or Tricams. Bought the Torque nuts and DMM Wallnuts, with offsets.
mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
Alicia Sokolowski wrote: Whatever you buy, consider getting them at Rock and Snow.  They price match, and they have a punch card where once you buy so many cams, you get one free!

Also, they are good people, serious climbers, and it is good to support local independent businesses.   Walmart (AKA Moosejaw) will do just fine without your money.

Live Perched · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 5
mbk wrote:

Also, they are good people, serious climbers, and it is good to support local independent businesses.   Walmart (AKA Moosejaw) will do just fine without your money.

Rock And Snow is amazing.  bump for Rock and Snow

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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