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Headlamps for alpine climbing 2019


Stever · · Squamish, BC · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 20
greggrylls wrote: https://coastportland.com/product/fl75r/

This is what you want.  "climbing headlamps" suck compared to specialized light manufacturers.  My buddy has one and i've had him turn on the "sun" mode to light a pitch I was leading at night.  I've got a new BD storm and it doesn't compare.   His started having issues after 1 year and they sent him a brand new one no questions asked.  

A little expensive.  I can't compare to the Fenix but he may have more to say as he's had a few of the nice headlamps and has pitched me on pros and cons before.  I'll be getting a coast soon enough.  

Thomas G?  Anything to add

Edit: also on the 18650 platform everyone is talking about I believe.  Option to recharge vs. add regular batteries is sweet.

Hmm this one is cheaper than the Fenix and Zebralight so makes a more affordable solution 

Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,505

Fenix hl60r arrived today. Hot damn, the two highest settings are bright! 

I’m impressed with the quality of the build—very solid. Significantly heavier than the BD, Petzl, and Princeton Tec headlamps I’ve used, but the all-metal casing should prove to be rather durable.

I’m looking forward to using it in the field.

Briggs Lazalde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Well. I'm sorry if I steered you wrong nick. Dont get the storm....same problem as the last gen....climbing ice and it fucking drops down from brightest to dimmest setting after avout 1 minutes. Repeated that 20 times before I became so fed up I feel like sueing. You cant be leading ice and have your headlamp fail....soo fucking pissed right now I'm leaving a review on REI website and I'm gonna send a fun email to black diamond.... Livid

stolo · · Shelby, NC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 215

Another vote for Zebralight. Many different options depending what beam type you want. The 18650 platform will blow all other flashlights/headlamps away, well worth the initial investment.

Briggs Lazalde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
stolo wrote: Another vote for Zebralight. Many different options depending what beam type you want. The 18650 platform will blow all other flashlights/headlamps away, well worth the initial investment.

I will definitely be getting one of the lights with positive reviews in this thread. I appreciate this thread for bringing some great points to light that I woulda be oblivious to before. Getting rid of this POS BD headlamp and fixing the problem tomorrow. Trying to focus on the positives but shit got real sketch today and its in no way excusable. 1 love y'all... 


Thanks for the reassurance stolo. I think ill get that model 
Blake Cazier · · duluth mn · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

have you looked at Lupine ?

Daniel Chambo · · Chapel Hill, NC · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 60

Anybody using the Nitecore HC65 for climbing?  Curious how it compares to zebralights and Fenix, etc. Specs seem good, runtimes not quite as good as zebralight, but seems versatile as it does have red and HI CRI proximity lights, and can be found for $50 incl battery. 

ABB · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 0
jdejace wrote:...always have a spare set of alkalines in my emergency kit. 

In the alpine context, alkalines are a poor choice as their output in freezing temps is terrible unless the batts are warmed (e.g. worn under a hat). Difficult to warm if the torch is on a helmet. Put lithium back-ups in your car, pack, etc. and they'll still be good in 10 years. Alkaline shelf life is poor and they're heavier than lithiums.

Aaron Nash · · North Bend, WA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 212

Picked up a Fenix hl60r and hp25 based on the recommendations here and am very impressed. Yes it weighs a little more than my old held-together-by-duct-tape petzl tikka, but it's not that much heavier and it certainly isn't noticible at all when I'm wearing it. The light output and build quality difference is massive and definitely makes up for the 2oz difference. Rechargable through a USB cord makes this more versatile than the zebralight as I don't believe you can charge via usb in the field (if I'm wrong ignore that).

Right now, if you sign up for their email list (you can unsubscribe immediately after) you'll get a 30% off coupon. That brings these down to about $50 with free shipping (battery included, unlike the zebralight). Given the performance, that's a steal. I'm extremely impressed and highly recommended if you need a new headlamp or two.

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 182

I bought both the Fenix and zebra.... Fenix is pretty damn nice but is heavier and bulkier so idk flip a coin, can't go wrong with either beam. You could literally drive a car in the dark of night with either.

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 294
Aaron Nash wrote: Right now, if you sign up for their email list (you can unsubscribe immediately after) you'll get a 30% off coupon. That brings these down to about $50 with free shipping (battery included, unlike the zebralight). 
30% or 20%?


gumbie gene · · NJ · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Got the Fenix HM50R. HL60R seemed a bit heavy and overkill for me.

But WOW. The quality of the headlamp blows BDs and Petzl's headlamps out of the water. Build, lighting, features, and the extras they give you in case something breaks are all better at an even better price point.

Thanks MP for showing me this.

Will not be going back to climbing company headlamps.

Briggs Lazalde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

This has probably been the most actually useful thread in a while given the amount of people that have changed their lighting preferences

Stever · · Squamish, BC · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 20
gumbie gene wrote: Got the Fenix HM50R. HL60R seemed a bit heavy and overkill for me.

But WOW. The quality of the headlamp blows BDs and Petzl's headlamps out of the water. Build, lighting, features, and the extras they give you in case something breaks are all better at an even better price point.

Thanks MP for showing me this.

Will not be going back to climbing company headlamps.

Why is it overkill? 

Braden Downey · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 105

I've used countless princeton tech, black diamond, and Petzl healdlamps over the years, and now the Olight - the Olight H2r is the best lamp I've used so far. Prior to that, I couild always find my way down cliffy terrain in the dark with the Princeton Tech Apex, but it was always a bit bulky. The Olight might weigh more than some lamps, but very compact for it's power, and the extra weight is more than worth it's weight in gold if you're gonna be rapping into the void, or navigating up a broken up glacier at 3am. Get the yellow lens for better depth perception, especially for snow, fog and trail. Also, it's rechargable via USB, and the battery has an outrageous battery life.

Aaron Nash · · North Bend, WA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 212
Briggs Lazalde wrote: This has probably been the most actually useful thread in a while given the amount of people that have changed their lighting preferences

Agreed. Thanks for the input everyone. I was content using my duct taped together 8 year old headlamp, but now I'm glad I got a replacement. Such a difference that was never really on my radar. Hoping not to have to think about it for another 8+ years.


Regarding the fenix sale, I don't remember if it is 20 or 30. Either way it made the light ~$50 and a no brainer.
cdawg lion · · BeaUTAHfull · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 72

Been using this beast for a year, and it's killer. Don't go back to my little BD light except for running and emergencies. Yes it is from china and a little heavy, but it's still the brightest and has a killer battery (swappable).


https://www.amazon.com/Cobiz-Brightest-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Flashlight/dp/B07KGP13P1/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=headlamp&qid=1551900762&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Mel on · · NJ · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

I ordered a Fenix HP25R yesterday thanks to this thread! Will report back once I try it out.

Had 2 BD storms just stop working out of nowhere (the second one was gifted to me). Seems pretty obvious in hindsight not to buy a headlamp from a climbing company...kinda feel like I should have thought of that myself.

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 1,698

Damn you all. I was perfectly happy with my BD spot. (In fact, my wife and kids have them, too.) Now, thanks to this thread, I've ordered the Zebralight.

Briggs Lazalde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
mel on wrote: I ordered a Fenix HP25R yesterday thanks to this thread! Will report back once I try it out.

Had 2 BD storms just stop working out of nowhere (the second one was gifted to me). Seems pretty obvious in hindsight not to buy a headlamp from a climbing company...kinda feel like I should have thought of that myself.

Mel do you by chance have an idea on the generation of the 2 storms? Was it within the last 2 model releases?  Suppose it doesnt matter since I'm switching from BD headlamps anyway but I'm wondering if that problem occured in just recent or older models.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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