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What would you do? All opinions are welcome


Sloppy Second · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Ryan Pfleger wrote:

You're off by a factor of 12. 10 feet, not 10 inches.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I have encountered this before. It falls exactly along the lines of who is friends with whom and has nothing to do with the necessity of the bolts or not.

Party A, part of the cool kids or Uber cool state topropes near or on the line. Thinks the bolting is unnecessary and so do all his friends.

Party B, an interloper, from somewhere like Ohio or Colorado. He bolts the line and his buddies love it. It's an independent line that hasn't been led. What's not to love.

Party C, everyone else, the don't know anyone involved in the situation and they don't know the long and hallowed oral history of this magical place of rock. They're only looking to go climbing. They will generally love the new route unless the bolter did something stupid with the bolts or anchors.

cassondra long · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 305

While I am not really into harboring enough active hostility to go chop up someone's work, nor developing a route on crappy rock, piggy-backing on the popularity of a classic,

Robert Hall wrote: Too bad about the mixed bolts, 100% SS should be minimum these days.
I rather despise shoddy workmanship in all its laziness (not cleaning,) and/or stinginess (not spending a few extra bucks to put in decent hardware.)  A job worth doing, is worth doing well and all that.
.  

Since the comments on the route seem to indicate it's a pretty well liked.

Well why wouldn't the comments indicate that it was well liked? If one read the route page, it could be observed that those favorable comments were posted by the developers of said route, e.g. KY Pete, et al.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,476

I don't know, but when I read this thread I hears this song in muh head.


Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 16,338

Seven....There's a "blatent, beautiful, easy" walk off from the usual top-out(s)  of Roger's Rock???.....a walk off that returns to the base (and not up to the trail and then on to the campground). i.e. A walk off that doesn't traverse the top of the cliff (rotten with lose blocks, which rained down on us when some goofers tried to get to the top via the trail) or go through the (lose) talus above?

Please, please, if you know of such, post it on MtnProjct !  [In fact any walk off would be great to know about, even if it isn't "blatent, beautiful, [and] easy" ! ] The tree gully on the left is ugly, trashy and ends in mossy slab; the full-of-lose-stuff gully on the right can be rapped with a single rope by to down-climb it???  I

Josh Lipko · · Charlotte · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 10
cassondra long wrote: If one read the route page, it could be observed that those favorable comments were posted by the developers of said route, e.g. KY Pete, et al.

This. All the people who have rated it and posted about its quality were involved in its development. That hardly makes it well-liked by the community. I doubt anyone other than them have even done it given the weather in RR lately. And this Kentucky Pete character even seems to ackowledge that is questionably bolted in the comments section. 

If you can’t afford to equip your new route with modern gear, just don’t do it.
Matt M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 12

I was not involved in the development. I've climbed bbw, pg, and now this (before all the rain and cold came). When I finished it, people on pg walked across us to get to walk off while I was belaying my follower. 

It's definitely more than 10 feet to the left of BBW. I will admit there are some points where it seems like you could join up with bbw, but just stay left, and follow the boltline?

The bolts are there. Climb and comment on it; suggest edits where necessary, and let followers/readers of MP decide for themselves? 

Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,395
Tim Stich wrote: I don't know, but when I read this thread I hears this song in muh head.



Really? That’s weird. I don’t get that vibe at all. More like this.


Big B · · Sin City, NV · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1

Dan,
It’s kentucky pete, what’d you expect?!? Kick back and let him regal you with all his storytelling :roll eyes:

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,460
Big B wrote: Dan,
It’s kentucky pete, what’d you expect?!? Kick back and let him regal you with all his storytelling :roll eyes:

Shit, I was thinking of Kentucky Joe earlier, Pete must be his replacement.

Big B · · Sin City, NV · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1

Funny all these peeps on here rippin Dan...bet most of you climb or have climbed multiple routes of his in RR.
Thank you Dan for your efforts... it’s a pleasure taking new climbers out on your routes ..much appreciated 

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 80

chop the bolts and leave them on the dude's hood with a bouquet of cala lilies, so he knows you really mean it.     

Russell Bangert · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 52

I'd get off mountain project and go climb about it. 

David Bruneau · · St. John · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,271

Well, considering I'm going to Red Rocks next week with a newer leader, what I would do is go climb both the new route and BBW. It seems like a good addition to the area, that will alleviate traffic on BBW. The FA should consider taking their name down off mountain project, so they don't get threatened with a lawsuit for illegally adding bolts.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 311
FrankPS wrote:

Stay out of our politics, Euro. :)

Yes..... please take care of your own nations mess! 

Deirdre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 10

Is this the same Kentucky Pete who was at Island Rock in Long Island during the early 2000's? He was charging people for climbing lessons.

Weston L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851
David Bruneau wrote: Well, considering I'm going to Red Rocks next week with a newer leader, what I would do is go climb both the new route and BBW. It seems like a good addition to the area, that will alleviate traffic on BBW. The FA should consider taking their name down off mountain project, so they don't get threatened with a lawsuit for illegally adding bolts.

Bolting is not legal in wilderness.  The route in question is not in federally designated wilderness.

David Bruneau · · St. John · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,271
Weston L wrote:

Bolting is not legal in wilderness.  The route in question is not in federally designated wilderness.

Oh! Good to know. Surprised more sport multipitch hasnt been bolted in the calico hills in that case.

Matt Wetmore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 45
David Bruneau wrote:

Oh! Good to know. Surprised more sport multipitch hasnt been bolted in the calico hills in that case.

There aren't many formations in that area that would fit more than a short pitch.

Weston L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

Even anything on that formation, if the line is straightened out, can be done with a single 70 or 80 at most.  I TR soloed BBW when I moved to town on a 70 for a quick after work workout.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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