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Bolt Ladder for aid practice HWY 50???

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 130
mpech wrote:

Agreed-- Sugarloaf should just be for trad-dads getting GoPro footage on 5.9s...

Correction.... 5.7 R 

Everyone loves gopro footage of thrutching up Harding's Chimney right? 

  
Lon Harter · · Reno · Joined May 2018 · Points: 361

I been following this thread from the beginning and I've kept my thoughts to myself. But it sounds like so many of you actually own Sugarloaf. I have spent many days climbing there over the years and l love it up there. I have no problem with a bolt ladder going in at any location as long as it's not on an established route. If one would put a line up I would suggest maybe not doing a complete ladder but leave a few missing hangers leave a few just studs for dublooms.  Make it actually practical for what you will see on the big stone.  I do see value in your project. And yes it's a cluster fuck on the walls.  People do need a place to practice.  You might actually be helping someone actually top out because a great deal of wall failures come from other party's cluster fuck.  You solve that issue and you would be helping a lot of people out.

The Farley · · South Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 30
Nico Wright · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

There is a perfectly fine bolt ladder at Boy Scout Rocks at Diablo.  Not exactly HWY 50, but readily accessible for lots of folks and geographies.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105734630/bolt-route

Yeah I would oppose a bolt ladder with no purpose on Sugarloaf, even on the lower boulders,  it's too aesthetic, historic, and crowded already.

Lon Harter · · Reno · Joined May 2018 · Points: 361

I think that the route Farley suggested fits the bill should work for everyone.

The Farley · 1 day ago · South Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 30mountainproject.com/route/1…
csproul · · Davis, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 325
Lon Harter · · Reno · Joined May 2018 · Points: 361

Nico Wright · 18 mins ago · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0Lon Harter wrote:I think that the route Farley suggested fits the bill should work for everyone.

Please no.  Especially on the weekends,  if you are clogging up a popular 5.9 teaching aid to newbies or even practicing people are going to be pretty pissed off.  Go find some obscure 11+/12 thin seam crack for that.


Slow down there Nico and maybe your reading comprehension will improve some.  As Csproul so eloquently put it you confused the a username with a Route name that no one wants to see someone do any Aiding on. Perhaps my post was not clear enough.  Sorry if it got you triggered.
Nico Wright · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Oh!  Haha!  My mistake, well in case anybody got confused and tried to aid a 5.9 crack!

Lon Harter · · Reno · Joined May 2018 · Points: 361

Nico you want to hear something funny. (Actually it was not funny at the time.) I kid you not I saw a party Aiding Knapsack Crack this summer.  On top of that the Second was not jugging and cleaning  but re-Aiding and then cleaning.  What a cluster fuck that was.  They had an epic on Knapsack.

Slammin Steve · · Unknown Hometown · Joined 10 days ago · Points: 0
Lon Harter wrote:

Slow do there Nico and maybe your reading comprehension will improve some.  As Csproul so eloquently put it you confused the a username with a Route name that no one wants to see someone do any Aiding on. Perhaps my post was not clear enough.  Sorry if it got you triggered.  

If I want to aid Farley at 10am on a Saturday are you going to stop me? I didn't know you owned the stone. 

Lon Harter · · Reno · Joined May 2018 · Points: 361

Nice Troll

I know don't feed the trolls.  Maybe you should should loosen up your man bun it is putting a strain on your brain.  Please go back and read my very first post. You will see I don't believe anyone owns the Rock. To the that extent if I wanted to put an Aid line at any crag I would do and without asking anyone on mountain project for permission or advice. I been climbing long enough to know what is acceptable and what is not.  Now would I stop you from Adding a Trade line? Well I might think you are an idiot.  That you lack the skills to find a better place to practice Aid somewhere other than a trade route. Stop you no.   Laugh at you yes.  But really I belive it comes down to if you got there before me well that's life my friend you climb your way I'll climb mine.

I don't know how much you have given back to the climbing community but I know I've done my share over the years.  I never have had crossed words with any climber before.   I usually get a long with most climbers.  We might not see eye to eye about Aid climbing, gym climbing, Trad, or Sport.   At the end of the day I'm going to do what I want to do regardless of what you and your friends say or think and really there is nothing you and your friends could do  about it.  Your going to do what your going to do.  So maybe we should just have a beer and chill or I'm more than happy to go the other more physical route when needed.  I'm pretty easy to spot at the cargs I'm usually the biggest SOB  there.  For a more civil discussion please man up and post under your real name. Own your actions. Look me up we can finish the discussion in person.

Cheers my Troll friend I prefer New Castle or Scotch

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5
Nico Wright wrote: There is a perfectly fine bolt ladder at Boy Scout Rocks at Diablo.  Not exactly HWY 50, but readily accessible for lots of folks and geographies.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105734630/bolt-route

Yeah I would oppose a bolt ladder with no purpose on Sugarloaf, even on the lower boulders,  it's too aesthetic, historic, and crowded already.

I have friends in the East Bay who have climbed Bolt Route MANY times (and I've joined them a number of times when I'm down there). As mentioned up thread, it's first come first serve so if someone wants to aid a route that is primarily a free climb now, go for it, but that's an actual case of causing crowding problems. Taking an hour or two for a first time aid lead would be pretty lame if it was a weekend and people wanted to free climb it.

It's pretty far from HWY 50. It's rare to do a day trip out to Diablo when you have much better climbing opportunities on 50 and 80.

A bolt ladder has a purpose. For first time aid leaders to learn what they are doing. And if it's really steep (overhanging) they're fun. As long as it not in a really obvious spot it doesn't cause a significant aesthetic issue. It's not going to cause any crowding on popular climbs. It's just going to mean there'd be some people enjoying some other part of the rock.
Danny Herrera · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 510
George Beilstein · · San Francisco, Ca · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

How about a tall tree and some lag bolts....

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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