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Bolt Ladder for aid practice HWY 50???

Original Post
Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

Is there a bolt ladder for aid practice in the 50 corridor?

If not what do y'all think about establishing one at Sugarloaf (in the boulders somewhere) for winter teaching of newbies? Was thinking of Midway rock where it's nice and steep a la Leconte Boulder in yose.

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 130
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: Is there a bolt ladder for aid practice in the 50 corridor?

If not what do y'all think about establishing one at Sugarloaf for winter teaching of newbies? Was thinking of Midway rock where it's nice and steep a la Leconte Boulder in yose.

Pretty sure there is one on the Lovers Leap boulders. And if it's not around anymore there is plenty of straight forward cracks to plug gear into for practice.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

Agree.

But practice on the steep is different as well as having a convenient anchor to practice hauling while not clogging up other climbs.

Don't get me wrong as I am not dead set on this. Looking for community input.

Jesse Scarborough · · Menlo Park, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 36

I'd use it. I'd even be down to help bolt it. 

David A · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 410

I know it ain't Hwy 50, but there's a steep roadside bolt ladder on Highway 49, north of Nevada City right before it crosses the Yuba here: https://goo.gl/maps/tLpX7Lznpo62

You can even see it on the Streetview. 

csproul · · Davis, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 325

Just aid grand illusion, chances are that nobody will be on it.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148
csproul wrote: Just aid grand illusion, chances are that nobody will be on it.

Getting to the base is a little outside the realm of newbie instruction but I hear you.

mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: Agree.

But practice on the steep is different as well as having a convenient anchor to practice hauling while not clogging up other climbs.

Don't get me wrong as I am not dead set on this. Looking for community input.

Frankly, I think this is a bad idea. Don't try to Eric Sloan-ify the area. Any random unpopular 1 pitch climb can be used to practice aiding and hauling, there is no need to bolt a ladder just for the purpose. 

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148
mpech wrote:

Frankly, I think this is a bad idea. Don't try to Eric Sloan-ify the area. Any random unpopular 1 pitch climb can be used to practice aiding and hauling, there is no need to bolt a ladder just for the purpose. 

Ouch that hurts. :)

Tell me more about these unpopular cracks at Sugarloaf...maybe Fracture or Pony Express? :p
kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 581

I teach noobs on the overhanging lead wall at the climbing gyms. Pipe works is in hwy50

mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

Ouch that hurts. :)

Tell me more about these unpopular cracks at Sugarloaf...maybe Fracture or Pony Express? :p

why does it have to be at sugarloaf? 

I agree with previous comments, grand illusion seems like a good bet if it absolutely has to be at sugarloaf. 
csproul · · Davis, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 325

I’ve aided Taurus. Bet you could aid captain fingers.

If something gets booted, include a lower out!

Brandon R · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 63

Auburn Quarry isn't too far away, and I doubt anyone would care about a bolt ladder in a quarry.

Ken G · · Meyers, CA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 115

There is an aid boulder at the corner of South Lake Tahoe blvd and Tahoe mountain road in south lake. One side has a bolt ladder the other has some more challenging routes.

I have also climbed one of these days in woodfords as a clean aid route.

I don’t think it would be in good style to put up an aid ladder at the loaf.

Chim chimney at the loaf is basically a bolts ladder. 

csproul · · Davis, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 325
Ken G wrote: There is an aid boulder at the corner of South Lake Tahoe blvd and Tahoe mountain road in south lake. One side has a bolt ladder the other has some more challenging routes.

I have also climbed one of these days in woodfords as a clean aid route.

I don’t think it would be in good style to put up an aid ladder at the loaf.

Chim chimney at the loaf is basically a bolts ladder. 

Where is Chim chimney? Nevermind, found it https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108007759/chim-chiminey

Is that it?
LOL A 3 bolt 5.6 aid ladder!
Ken G · · Meyers, CA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 115

Yeah the bolts are probably too far apart. Would be impressive though. 

The Farley · · South Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 30
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: Is there a bolt ladder for aid practice in the 50 corridor?

If not what do y'all think about establishing one at Sugarloaf for winter teaching of newbies? Was thinking of Midway rock where it's nice and steep a la Leconte Boulder in yose.

Sugarloaf is a fairly historic and notable crag- I would not want to see a drilled ladder installed.  There are others established in the area as mentioned in the thread- and as KD points out the gym is a great place to dial basic aid skills as well.  


Thanks for asking for input before drilling up the stone at the Loaf.  
Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148
The Farley wrote:

Sugarloaf is a fairly historic and notable crag- I would not want to see a drilled ladder installed.  There are others established in the area as mentioned in the thread- and as KD points out the gym is a great place to dial basic aid skills as well.  


Thanks for asking for input before drilling up the stone at the Loaf.  

To be sure I would absolutely oppose a bolt ladder on Sugarloaf proper and only propose one somewhere in the boulder field that is appropriately constructed for the purpose. The idea is steep to an anchor to practice setting up a haul. Better for newbies to cluster there than on the Kor roof etc.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148
kevin deweese wrote: I teach noobs on the overhanging lead wall at the climbing gyms. Pipe works is in hwy50

Do you know if touchstone is fine with this? Seems like it would create a bit of a spectacle...

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 581
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

Do you know if touchstone is fine with this? Seems like it would create a bit of a spectacle...

Depends upon the specific gym and how busy they are. Diabo Rock, Mission Cliffs, and Great Western have never given me any issues with it (I don't normally ask first because the person behind the desk normally looks at you like you're speaking Esperanto) Iron Works definitely is not friendly to aid climbing practice on their walls because it "takes up too much time on a route" even when there's no one around. No idea about Pipeworks specifically.


Don't forget that there's aid routes at Mosquito Coast by placerville. Most of the routes are def not for noobs, but precedence seems to have been set for an additional bolt ladder in the area I would think.
GizzardJones · · Rancho Cordova, CA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 400

There is def plenty of options to put one up on Highway 50 that is at no major climbing area to clog up any routes/area. tons of rocks/boulders lurking in them hills if you want to stomp for it

BUMP for M. Coast practicing aid stuff.. GREAT spot for it!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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