Mountain Project Logo

Upward pull on hangers


Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Francis Haden wrote:

Can build the odd large boat too.

You mean like this one?


36m, Kevlar/E-glass vinylester sandwich hull, 2 x 1600hp V16 MTU diesels, single GE 3500hp gas turbine. Design top speed 51.8knots.
rockklimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0
Chris Hatzai wrote: I can add that when you lead rope solo, it’s always good to clove/figure 8 into both the first and second bolt as youre ascending. Creates a backup.. not equalized but 2 bolts are better than 1.

Also creates fall factor 2 potential.  

rockklimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0
Jim Titt wrote:

If the bolts are that bad I wouldn't start up the route..... 

There are plenty of ways to stop ff2 onto the belay.

I’d be more worried about my spine and femurs on a ff2 than the bolt.  

rockklimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0
Tradiban wrote:

Well, there's plenty of other hangers besides the one you tested that the OP might encounter.

Also, could imangine that there's plenty if cases where the hanger won't rotate because it's too tight, the rock around it won't allow it, or it's designed not to ("teeth" on the back).

How about stopping rotation and seeing what happens.

Yeah, there are still plenty of old crappy SMC hangers out there.  I would def not rope solo off one of them.  

Brent Kelly · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 36

As a fledgling Rope Soloist - and one who doesn’t want to damage fixed equipment for my own delights, as I don’t have the equipment or training to quickly and confidently repair/replace a bolt - the evidence based info in this thread is fascinating, informative, and both comforting & cautionary.

Thanks OP.

And as a 30yr old with a B.Sci. Mech Eng, which I  sadly haven’t used all that much for non-heuristic “nuts and bolts” analysis since graduating, Jim Titt’s input is super inspiring stuff.

Also, per usual, these seem apropos:

https://rationalwiki.org/wiki/Denialism#Denialism_vs._skepticism
-
https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/significant-results/201408/what-you-should-know-about-online-arguments

Nathan E · · Yosemite · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 190
Chris Hatzai wrote: I can add that when you lead rope solo, it’s always good to clove/figure 8 into both the first and second bolt as youre ascending. Creates a backup.. not equalized but 2 bolts are better than 1.

Ehhh, I wouldn't say so.  Clove can cut. A cut 8 can roll I figure.  Butterfly is better.

I quote Werner Braun from this thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/183850/Solo-Belay-Anchors-Inverted-or-Not-Which-is-Better

"One must be very careful when using clove hitches in these types of aplications. If the clove hitch and biner hit the rock just right it can cut the rope.

It has happened ...... and the man went to the base"
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
Post a Reply to "Upward pull on hangers"

Log In to Reply