Upward pull on hangers

Chris Hatzai wrote: I can add that when you lead rope solo, it’s always good to clove/figure 8 into both the first and second bolt as youre ascending. Creates a backup.. not equalized but 2 bolts are better than 1.

Also creates fall factor 2 potential.  

Jim Titt wrote:

If the bolts are that bad I wouldn't start up the route..... 

There are plenty of ways to stop ff2 onto the belay.

I’d be more worried about my spine and femurs on a ff2 than the bolt.  

Tradiban wrote:

Well, there's plenty of other hangers besides the one you tested that the OP might encounter.

Also, could imangine that there's plenty if cases where the hanger won't rotate because it's too tight, the rock around it won't allow it, or it's designed not to ("teeth" on the back).

How about stopping rotation and seeing what happens.

Yeah, there are still plenty of old crappy SMC hangers out there.  I would def not rope solo off one of them.  

As a fledgling Rope Soloist - and one who doesn’t want to damage fixed equipment for my own delights, as I don’t have the equipment or training to quickly and confidently repair/replace a bolt - the evidence based info in this thread is fascinating, informative, and both comforting & cautionary.

Thanks OP.

And as a 30yr old with a B.Sci. Mech Eng, which I  sadly haven’t used all that much for non-heuristic “nuts and bolts” analysis since graduating, Jim Titt’s input is super inspiring stuff.

Also, per usual, these seem apropos:

https://rationalwiki.org/wiki/Denialism#Denialism_vs._skepticism
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https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/significant-results/201408/what-you-should-know-about-online-arguments

Chris Hatzai wrote: I can add that when you lead rope solo, it’s always good to clove/figure 8 into both the first and second bolt as youre ascending. Creates a backup.. not equalized but 2 bolts are better than 1.

Ehhh, I wouldn't say so.  Clove can cut. A cut 8 can roll I figure.  Butterfly is better.