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OR Crack Gloves??


Original Post
Daniel Melnyk · · Covina · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 30

Climbing a lot on the sharp rocks of J Tree this winter have gotten me really into taping my hands. I like that tape leaves my hands similar to their natural width but I hate how much tape I waste.

Ocun gloves are good for any crack hands or wider but they’re so thick that thin hand cracks are awful. The OR gloves look thinner so maybe better.

Anyone used them and have an option of them?

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 152
Daniel Melnyk wrote:Aiding a lot on the sharp rocks of J Tree this winter have gotten me really into taping my hands. I like that tape leaves my hands similar to their natural width but I hate how much tape I waste.

Ocun gloves are good for any crack hands or wider but they’re so thick that thin hand cracks are awful. The OR gloves look thinner so maybe better.

Anyone used them and have an option of them?


Josh · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 965

I'm liking them a lot so far (2 seasons).  Faster and easier than tape, and a lot less waste (I still do use some tape as augmentation in specific situations).  They are holding up fairly well (I have had to restitch at the wrist connections-- reattaching the velcro closure tabs to the wrist straps-- but the main rubber/fabric pads on the backs of the hands are doing fine), but they are also cheap enough compared to the other options out there that I won't be too annoyed replacing them if I need to in another season or two.  Their low profile and relative flexibility make them good for routes that are mostly crack but also involve some other features, in the sense that I don't feel like I need to remove them to comfortably face climb, belay, etc.  I had a pair of rubber ones from that Russian knock-off company Climb-X a few years ago, and the rubber loops around my fingers felt bitey and uncomfortable, and the wrist straps were so thick I was blocked from getting my hands all the way into deep hand cracks.  No such problem with the OR gloves.  Very low profile.  I don't think they change my true hand thickness much more than tape would.

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 881

Anybody want a pair of used L/XLs?  Used on about 20 pitches or so. Shoot me a message. SOLD

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

You know you can make reusable tape gloves?

Josh · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 965
FrankPS wrote: You know you can make reusable tape gloves?

Or I could pay someone else to make mine for me out of fabric and rubber... ;)

jk-- it's still worth knowing how to make, and using, tape gloves, of course, but the OR gloves are pretty quick and handy, IMHO
Max Tepfer · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 1,691

I really like them.  The newer models are an improvement on the first gen as well. (better velcro)  Definitely faster on and off than the ocuns and for sure lower profile.  (which has its pros and cons)  Also they're superior to tape because they last way longer, don't roll, and don't have to be painfully peeled off your hands when you want to stop using them.  Sometimes I'll take them off mid-route if I'm doing a hand crack to a more bouldery crux and want my hands to slide into my chalkbag more easily.  Something that would be basically impossible w/tape gloves.

Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,395

I’ve been enjoying my pair so far. I’ve only used them about a dozen times, but they feel good to me.

Jon.R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 5

They're great but have some serious durability issues if you climb anything where you use the inside of your hand. Sent mine in for a warranty and will be reinforcing them next time around with tape around the wrist and around each finger loop. Ripped two finger loops after about 4 days on, my reusable tape gloves last longer.

Kevin Green · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Just cut your tape gloves off at the end of the day then reuse them the next. I tape them on at the wrist and across my knuckles. Best of both worlds.

I find that the hand jammies are fine for the gym where I don't want to tape up and will only be doing a lap or so. 

Competent Leader · · Western US · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

I think there should be an age basement on using these...at least 40 years old.

Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,395
Competent Leader wrote: I think there should be an age basement on using these...at least 40 years old.

Fine with me; I make the cut!

B Leigh · · Oceanside, CA · Joined 28 days ago · Points: 0

Yeah Leader, bite me :)   If you're lucky enough to be climbing 5.9 cracks when you're 60 - you'll be happy to buy them by the gross.  The Ocuns are great!

Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

I have a pair and like them a lot. Thinner and less intrusive than a tape glove. I like that it leaves my palm side totally free. 

Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,395
Competent Leader wrote: I think there should be an age basement on using these...at least 40 years old.

Ondra uses them. Let him know he’s not gnar enough for you.

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 152
Jaren Watson wrote:

Ondra uses them. Let him know he’s not gnar enough for you.

That's because he's got baby soft hands and isn't a real hard man climber. 

kemple sr. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 95

I a;ways considered them a sign of a true gumbie, then I saw a video where Kate Rutherford uses them in Patagonia. Quick on and off and no wet tape in the alpine.  She is as badass as it gets so I have reconsidered and bought a pair of the OR ones.  The newer model holds up better than the early one, but still moves around on my hand like a reused tape glove, especially on tight hands cracks.   Both are fine for gym workouts and save a bunch of tape, but in the real world I like the feel of a new, thin , tape glove. I am 68 and have been doing this stuff for a long time!

Rexford Nesakwatch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
  • Crack gloves became legit for all badass climbers around five years ago. I now see it as a sign of being a true gumbie when someone spends 20 minutes at the base of the first climb taping up.
kemple sr. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 95

Sorry, but not so.  Go to the creek and see some of the specialized tapings.

Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
kemple sr. wrote: I a;ways considered them a sign of a true gumbie...

I resemble this comment. 

Bootz Ylectric · · Chicago IL · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165

I picked up a pair of the climbX ones for doing laps in the gym.  I was embarrassed at first, but then I realized I don't really care, and also realized that they are super convenient for running crack laps in the gym in between routes.  I'm a fan. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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