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Powers SS 5-piece - Where are they?


Original Post
Brandon Fields · · Boulder · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 145

I've been waiting for Fixe to restock .5 x 2.75 SS 5-piece for a couple months now. Noone else seems to have them (under $11). Anyone know what's going on or any sources that still have some for normal prices?

sean burke · · Concord, Ca · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 75

Powers had a large recall last year and the new batch is slow to come out.

Brandon Fields · · Boulder · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 145
sean burke wrote: Powers had a large recall last year and the new batch is slow to come out.

That makes sense, thank you so much Sean!
Any other details would be cool as i was unaware of this. Now i'm wondering if i placed any of the recalled bolts and if that is a concern? Anyone have further info on the recall?
A quick google search didn't bring up anything, but i'm digging.

sean burke · · Concord, Ca · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 75

I have a friend who is the does ordering for the local fastenal.  He is having a hard time getting them as a result.  that is about the skinny of it as far as I know.  I thought the same thing, but I trust that they are okay.  I believe it was a real structural issue, i.e.  failing under bridge loads, sky scrapers etc.  Climb fast and get to the next one....

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 15,491

Maybe try Rock & Resole in Colorado: But need to phone them or use a web search -- for some reason the bolts don't show up in their normal website navigation.

Rob warden The space lizard · · Now...where? · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

Soft rock or would half inch studs do? I assume you dont want to  buy new hangers.

Chris Vinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 0

Le Boom.

http://www.climbtechgear.com/power-bolt-sleeve-anchor-stainless-steel/

M Hanna · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

Chris-

Do you know anything about the recall mentioned upstream? Power's website doesn't really have an obvious spot for recalls/news.

Thanks,

MH

Brandon Fields · · Boulder · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 145
kenr wrote: Maybe try Rock & Resole in Colorado: But need to phone them or use a web search -- for some reason the bolts don't show up in their normal website navigation.

I actually bought them out the other day as i live in Boulder and they had no idea that they were on back order at Fixe. That's what made me interested to find out what was going on.

Brandon Fields · · Boulder · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 145
Rob warden The space lizard wrote: Soft rock or would half inch studs do? I assume you dont want to  buy new hangers.

I just have a preference for 5-piece on some routes that i think are worth the extra time and money, particularly overhangs. Not working on any soft rock atm though.

Brandon Fields · · Boulder · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 145
M Hanna wrote: Chris-

Do you know anything about the recall mentioned upstream? Power's website doesn't really have an obvious spot for recalls/news.

Thanks,

MH

I know Climbtech has them, but i was shying away from paying 40% more for them. I'll probably snag some soon though since i prefer Climbtech hangers and need a RB anchor anyway. :p

M Hanna · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

McMaster Carr is about the same price for that size, FYI

MH

climb2core · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 436

You guys had problems with the SS power-bolt loosening up?  We have had probably a dozen known in the past 5 years.   Spoke to engineers at Powers they recommended torque to 33 lbs and re-torque after at least 24 hrs due to the bolt "relaxing".   This is in the Red. I'd be interested in hearing more about any recall as well.  Really wish the would go to the new PB+ style with the SS.

climber pat · · Las Cruces NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 241
climb2core wrote: You guys had problems with the SS power-bolt loosening up?  We have had probably a dozen known in the past 5 years.   Spoke to engineers at Powers they recommended torque to 33 lbs and re-torque after at least 24 hrs due to the bolt "relaxing".   This is in the Red. I'd be interested in hearing more about any recall as well.  Really wish the would go to the new PB+ style with the SS.

I put in a bunch 6 years ago using a torque wrench.  I climb the route regularly and none of them have loosen up or had any other problems.

M Hanna · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5
climb2core wrote: You guys had problems with the SS power-bolt loosening up?  We have had probably a dozen known in the past 5 years.   Spoke to engineers at Powers they recommended torque to 33 lbs and re-torque after at least 24 hrs due to the bolt "relaxing".   This is in the Red. I'd be interested in hearing more about any recall as well.  Really wish the would go to the new PB+ style with the SS.

C2C-


Are you talking about a 1/2" ss 5 pc/Powerbolt? I've never had a problem with these loosening at 25 ft/lb. Agreed on the interest in recall details, did you ask the Powers guy? Given the development of the PB+ and company ownership changes, I sure hope these don't go away in SS. It would be difficult to make the PB+ in ss due to lower material yield strengths in the core bolt.

MH
climb2core · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 436
M Hanna wrote:

C2C-


Are you talking about a 1/2" ss 5 pc/Powerbolt? I've never had a problem with these loosening at 25 ft/lb. Agreed on the interest in recall details, did you ask the Powers guy? Given the development of the PB+ and company ownership changes, I sure hope these don't go away in SS. It would be difficult to make the PB+ in ss due to lower material yield strengths in the core bolt.

MH

Yep.  we are doing SS 1/2" x 4 3/4" Power-bolts.   They have loosened up on at least 6-8 different developers at different walls.   I believe it is largely due to soft rock and angular falls that are causing the hanger to carve out the sandstone behind it and spin.   Once some of the sandstone is gone behind the hanger, the tension eases up on the bolt and it can begin to back out.   We have probably bought and placed 3000 SS bolts in the past 6 years, so it's not an exceptionally high number... but is still disconcerting.   


I am considering using this:
https://www.zoro.com/vibra-tite-threadlocker-red-30ml-flash-25-deg-21330/i/G6282151/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwNPbtben4AIVjYbACh1z_AtBEAQYAyABEgJkx_D_BwE
Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,321
climb2core wrote: 

[...]


I am considering using this:
https://www.zoro.com/vibra-tite-threadlocker-red-30ml-flash-25-deg-21330/i/G6282151/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwNPbtben4AIVjYbACh1z_AtBEAQYAyABEgJkx_D_BwE

Scenario -

  1. red thread locker on the threads of a 1/2" PowerBolt, installed in soft rock
  2. several weeks after the bolt is installed, the hanger is loose against the rock - not because the cone has turned on the threads, but because the rock around the sleeve has crumbled/shifted slightly after repeated falls
  3. all attempts to tighten/unscrew/remove the bolt fail because the cone is now fixed to the bolt
a) Does this scenario seem possible to you?
If so, b) Does the potential for a fixed but loose bolt give you pause?  
climb2core · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 436
Gregger Man wrote:

Scenario -

  1. red thread locker on the threads of a 1/2" PowerBolt, installed in soft rock
  2. several weeks after the bolt is installed, the hanger is loose against the rock - not because the cone has turned on the threads, but because the rock around the sleeve has crumbled/shifted slightly after repeated falls
  3. all attempts to tighten/unscrew/remove the bolt fail because the cone is now fixed to the bolt
a) Does this scenario seem possible to you?
If so, b) Does the potential for a fixed but loose bolt give you pause?  

That's why I wouldn't use thread locker.  That link didn't explain well what the product is...


"Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate is one of the most versatile threadlockers available on the market. An alternative to traditional liquid lockers which cure to form a hard bond, VC-3 is a blend of resins designed to remain flexible and absorb vibration. This unique difference makes VC-3 coated fasteners truly adjustable, removable, and reusable."

https://www.vibra-tite.com/industries/motorcycle-repair/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuKSF076n4AIVjYbACh3m7QtBEAAYASACEgIu2PD_BwE
Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,321

Interesting. The detail on the Zoro page said:

Removable With: Heat and Hand Tools       Threadlocker Strength: High

With 4.75" long bolts that seems like a bit of a gamble, but I might have a different opinion after seeing how strong that bond is several years down the road. Hard to know whether this is wise or not, but my instinct is still to pass.

climb2core · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 436
Gregger Man wrote: Interesting. The detail on the Zoro page said:

Removable With: Heat and Hand Tools       Threadlocker Strength: High

With 4.75" long bolts that seems like a bit of a gamble, but I might have a different opinion after seeing how strong that bond is several years down the road. Hard to know whether this is wise or not, but my instinct is still to pass.

I plan on doing a limited run, and then see if I can loosen it up in a couple of years before committing to this. If it works, I will do it with every bolt before they go out to developers.

M Hanna · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5
sean burke wrote: Powers had a large recall last year and the new batch is slow to come out.

I spoke with a Powers technical rep from the NY office today who indicated there was no recall of any sort they were aware of on the Power Bolt.

MH
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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