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Reimers Ranch Prototype wall

Original Post
Blakevan · · Dallas, TX · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 55

Posted on the Austin Climbing Groups FB page and I think photo credit goes to Jonny Schaefer‎ but not sure.  Sad day for folks that like to climb lime stone in central Texas.  Prototype is no more.

Randy Von Zee · · Darien, IL · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 19,014

That sucks there were a bunch of awesome routes in there.

Brent Kelly · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 36

Flooding? Big storm recently?

Lee Payne · · Austin, TX · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 92
Brent Kelly wrote: Flooding? Big storm recently?

Just a really wet fall/winter on very porous limestone.

germsauce Epstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 55

holy hell. that's crazy. I used to climb there when I lived in Austin.  Never saw more people getting dropped by bad belayers on a regular basis than at Reimers.  That said, good stuff for Central Texas. 

mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2

People used to climb this? It looks awful

Doug Lintz · · Kearney, NE · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,150
mpech wrote: People used to climb this? It looks awful

The route Prototype was actually a really good line.  Reimers is not a world class crag by any measure, but it's still pretty fun.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,476
mpech wrote: People used to climb this? It looks awful

Well, it looks awful now. The upper section was actually very clean, as you can see here:

The lower section is all that remains. It has two major ledges.

Matt M · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

That's a shame.

Was headed out there Monday ... glad that no one was on it or around when it fell. I wonder what the integrity of the rest of the walls around there. 

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 436

Whoa!  Prototype was one of the better 5.10s there, bummer!

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210

Agreed.  I recall it being one of the taller walls at Reimer’s too, which sucks.

Blakevan · · Dallas, TX · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 55

From what I've read they have closed that side of the park to people and will start looking at how safe the area is. Yes, it was one of the taller walls and a lot of fun.  Looks like I'll be spending more time on the North Shore when I'm down there.

Blakevan · · Dallas, TX · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 55

Copy/paste from the TCC FB page

The following is from TCC Executive Director Adam Mitchell:
Tuesday evening was a pretty sad day because of the loss of some of our area's classic climbing. Fortunately however, there was no loss of life, which in all honesty could have been a real and scary development. I met with the park and began the conversation of what the climbing community can do and what they expect from us. Below are my findings:
1: The South side of Reimers Proper is closed for the foreseeable future. All of the climbing and hiking on that side is closed. Yes, Shortcake Wall and other stuff in that area is included.
2: The damage is unfortunately extensive. Basically, the tops of climbs from Grinch to where 8 Flake was, and then the whole wall is gone all the way to Tree Route on Mai Tai. The rock fall is massive. I know you all want to see the damage, but please respect the closure from the park for now. There are discussions with the park service about doing guided hikes to the area once a week until the area is open.
3: Unfortunately, the memorial boulder and plaque for Trip Lucas are both gone. I'm sure the park service will allow us to replace it since we went through the proper channels the first time. For many who don't know there was a memorial plaque to Trip above Prototype which was one of his favorite areas and climbs.
4: TCC will be doing trail work to re-establish a trail through this area. We think this project will be doable, as there is a natural line through the debris. However we won't be doing this work for some time. There are a few steps that the Travis County Parks folks want before we will be allowed to work or hike below. Please keep an eye out as we send more information about a cool trail project.
5: Finally, a Prototype Wall memorial. We won't be able to do this at Reimers but we will discuss dates and potential locations.
Thanks everyone for your cooperation.

Danny Andrews · · Austin, TX · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 286

Makes me a little spooked about the integrity of other walls at Reimers (especially at north). Within a few weeks I heard of someone being knocked unconscious at Middle Earth, saw a huge block fall from Deflower Power, and now this.

Guess that's just Central Texas limestone for ya.

Bo London · · Richardson, TX · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

Is it safe to assume that Northshore is the only area that is open this weekend? Are any other walls currently open?

Randy Von Zee · · Darien, IL · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 19,014

I could be wrong, but I interpreted the closure as being just the areas south of the creek at Reimer's. If so, Sex Cave, Zoe, Dead Cats, and everything north of there is still open.

Mark Lide · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 6

Second what Randy said. I was there last weekend and only the upriver walls at the main reimer's area are closed (shortcake, Dr. Seuss, prototype ect).

jeremy54 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

are you able to get to Jade or no?

Lee Payne · · Austin, TX · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 92
jeremy54 wrote: are you able to get to Jade or no?

No, the trail that way is blocked by the rubble. That side of Proper is closed.

jeremy54 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks for the heads up. 

Harrison Lewis · · Houston, TX · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

Momentum Katy has set their version of Prototype- it's a 5.10c. Highly recommend checking it out!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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