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Campusing Boulder Problems for Power?

Original Post
Keith Button · · Ann Arbor, MI · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 50

I've been climbing for about 6 years (mostly sport) and just started bouldering a little more in the last 1.5 years or so to improve sport climbing. I've generally just worked boulder problems at my limit. I'm still a pretty garbage boulderer and certainly gravitate more towards endurancy routes. However, I've talked to a few boulderers who recommend campusing easier problems to improve pure power. Any recommendations on how to incorporate this into a session? Beginning of session? End? Laps? Or is this a bad idea altogether?

Hillbill · · Indianapolis · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 360

I would probably do it towards the beginning of the session, but either way I think the most important things are 1. you are fresh 2. you give yourself at least a few minutes rest in between burns to ensure full recovery. If you do any kind of power-based workout and you are already tired or don't rest enough between goes, you are setting yourself up for injury; or at the very least, you aren't being efficient. Eventually, you'll wan't to transition to a campus board. I think you'll see some gains pretty quickly by campusing problems and I would dedicate at least one day a week to limit bouldering only (no ropes that day!). 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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