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Shoe like the pinks but lower volume/thinner


Original Post
Brian Allen · · Palm Desert · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 11

I really like the pinks but as they have broken in the little room I had to tighten them has disappeared.  They pretty much look like football laces when I tie them.  The width is fine, my feet are on top of the edges and they don't roll, I just have really thin feet apparently, with super high arches.  I'm looking for a trad type shoe with a similar feel/performance that I am able to tighten and still have some lacing room left.  

So far I have tried or have:
* Tenaya Masai - similar to pinks in that I can completely tighten the laces
* TC Pro - comfy but too wide in the toe, feel sloppy and the edges roll around my foot
* Tenaya Terifa - best fitting shoe I have as far as volume goes, just not a good crack/all day trad type shoe

Like to try but haven't
* Butora Mantra or Altura..
* Maybe the Kataki?  Looks to be narrow, maybe low volume.

Anyone else out there with narrow/thin feet?

Brian

ShanJ2me · · Rapid City, SD · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,090

Hey Brian, I'm in the same boat. Super narrow feet. The best luck I had was the womens Muria. However I'm a 44  and really have to down  size for the largest size in that boot. I'm having great success I the BD Aspect size to your street shoe. Not sure what type of stone your climbing but they are great on granite face and cracks.

Brian Allen · · Palm Desert · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 11
ShanJ2me wrote: Hey Brian, I'm in the same boat. Super narrow feet. The best luck I had was the womens Muria. However I'm a 44  and really have to down  size for the largest size in that boot. I'm having great success I the BD Aspect size to your street shoe. Not sure what type of stone your climbing but they are great on granite face and cracks.

Thanks, I've thought about women's shoes, I'm typically a 44.5 and I haven't seen many women's shoes that big.  I might be able to make a 44 work, I'll check those out.


I'm climbing granite, jtree and tahquitz.  Mix of crack/slab/edging. 
ShanJ2me · · Rapid City, SD · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,090

That was the problem with the womens muria for me, they only go up to 43. So down sizing was tough. The Aspect works great for me on the  type of climbing you are doing.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 840

I've no experience with either shoe, but it could be worth checking out the UP-lace LV (Low Volume) from unparallel... https://www.unparallelsports.com/product/up-lace-lv/  there's a whole thread on the company here - https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/115400867/unparallel-shoes-five-ten  - the short version is that the 5.10 was bought by addidas and production moved out of southern california.  Unparallel is the ex 5.10 employees using the old 5.10 factory to make shoes.

bearded sam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 145

The Katana lace has been great for me

Neil Bodner · · Columbus, Ohio · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 151

I have a pretty regular foot, not super narrow, and own the butora altura regular fit and even they have stretched more than I would like. I purchased a pair of kataikis a while back and they were too narrow for me. wish they fit me better, and they are a very low volume shoe

Brian Allen · · Palm Desert · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 11
Larry S wrote: I've no experience with either shoe, but it could be worth checking out the UP-lace LV (Low Volume) from unparallel... https://www.unparallelsports.com/product/up-lace-lv/  there's a whole thread on the company here - https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/115400867/unparallel-shoes-five-ten  - the short version is that the 5.10 was bought by addidas and production moved out of southern california.  Unparallel is the ex 5.10 employees using the old 5.10 factory to make shoes.

This looks interesting, maybe a low volume pink?  I might try these, the largest size is 11 which might be a limiting factor but definitely worth a shot.

Ryan Pfleger · · North Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 15

Try the Anasazi LV

Brian Allen · · Palm Desert · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 11
Ryan Pfleger wrote: Try the Anasazi LV

I hadn't noticed these before, like the Uprising the largest size is 11 but worth trying the out.  Thanks.

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

Obvious choice for a narrow foot is the Miura Lace. The Kataki will almost certainly be too wide. Mythos is always worth a try.

Greg Shea · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10

Has anyone tried the wild country Parthian? I'm in the same boat and it looks pretty ideal to me.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 75

The shoe you want is a Tenaya Tatanka. These people recommending La Sportivas for a low volume foot have no idea.

Brian Allen · · Palm Desert · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 11
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: The shoe you want is a Tenaya Tatanka. These people recommending La Sportivas for a low volume foot have no idea.

I've looked at that shoe online, I love the Terifa and was hoping the Tantaka might be a little stiffer and better for cracks.  They are on sale at backcountry right now, I might try them out.


My experience with La Sportiva is also they don't work well for low volume feet, some of their shoes might be narrow but not low volume (in my case low volume being 'thin' feet)
bearded sam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 145

totally depends on the sportiva shoe. Muira lace is way too high volume for me. Katana lace has been great 

Victor K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 170

I have super low volume feet, and I love my Masai. When tightened, I have about 1/8” space between. I wear my exact shoe size. One thing, they really don’t stretch. If they are good in the store, they should be good.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 75
Victor K wrote: I have super low volume feet, and I love my Masai. When tightened, I have about 1/8” space between. I wear my exact shoe size. One thing, they really don’t stretch. If they are good in the store, they should be good.

Yea, Tenaya Masai might be the one if OP wants a little stiffer shoe.

I don't know anyone that makes better low volume shoes than Tenaya.
Brian Allen · · Palm Desert · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 11
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

Yea, Tenaya Masai might be the one if OP wants a little stiffer shoe.

I don't know anyone that makes better low volume shoes than Tenaya.

The way the Masai fit prompted my post.  I bought a pair thinking they would be a great low volume trad shoe based on my experience with the Terifa.  When I tried the Masai on I was surprised that I could tighten them close to completely.  It's better than the pinks, there is still a little gap left of tongue visible but if they stretch much then I'll be in the same boat.  Per Victor K's post maybe I'll give them a shot, if they don't stretch much they could work.  I'll try them on again tonight, I haven't returned them yet.

Austin Goff · · Winston-Salem, NC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 97

For Low volume, thin, and long (yes, i am talking about feet) I have found the Katanas and Muira lace work really well. I wish they made the women's katakis in larger sizes as the mens are just a little to wide in the toe box. 

Victor K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 170

One further comment. The first pair I bought was a half size up from my street shoe, a choice I made after trying on my regular shoe size, which seemed too tight at the time. After climbing in them happily for a year, I gave the smaller ones a second try. I’ve been in the smaller size for about 5 years. The actual advice: try 1/2 size down from the ones you have.

Anni A · · Joshua Tree · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 25

I can totally relate to low volume feet, trying to find the best shoe is the ultimate quest!! Current theory is that low vol feet are an evolutionary trait.  Survival of the fittest, brah

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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