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Joshua tree alternative recommendations?


Mike0110 · · Long Beach, CA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 5
Allen Sanderson wrote:

I do not believe that to be true of JTree. The gates will be closed and vehicles will not be able to enter. I guess one might still be able to climb by walking into Indian Cove.

Not all the gates will be closed. 

Rent a car and head up berdoo or old dale rd, dont be shy about the throttle and the trail will be easy.
Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 588
Caz Drach wrote: New Jack City for limestone sport

New Jack city is not lime stone it is deteriorating quartz monzonite

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,460
jt newgard wrote: Snowed in....yeah I suppose it's different for each climber....

anything from ski approach required, possible snow cave bivy

to

a dusting of snow potentially soaking through your approach shoes

might turn various climbers away. HA!

PS. This thread is missing the locals with conditions reports. Where is Tradiban and Locals Only?!

40s and sunny is very climbable in Idy. You might have to brave some snow to get there though. Keeps the sport climbers away I guess.

Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

Rowland, you never said where you're flying into. Presumably LAX. It's a real bummer you had your trip blown out by this shutdown. Also, the weather for that next week isn't going to be prime for J-tree anyway, but you're from the UK. There's lots of good climbing left in SoCal that's not going to be locked up but if you have any chance of changing travel plans I'd reschedule. 

GDavis Davis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10
Andrew F wrote:

No, I haven't climb a whole lot at woodson. I enjoy it there, but the routes are just tall boulders. 

Not saying Mission Gorge is better, just higher climbs that feel more like trad climbing than 20' boulders.
But you're entitled to your opinion NAWAMEAN!

Edit: OK I did say Mission Gorge would be better than woodson, but I meant as far as wanting to do single pitch trad climbing. Not that it's a better place to climb in general. But I'm a gumby so I don't really know anything 

Mission Gorge has some of the worst graniteI've ever climbed on, possibly THE worst. Contrived, greasy, extremely urban and too close to down town not to mention the annoying gate and weird way many of the routes were established.

Woodson is considered one of the greatest crack climbing bouldering areas in the US but some routes are almost 40 feet, especially in South Woodson or getting off the beaten track. By far the best stone in San Diego, possibly the best stone in southern california. Amazing, amazing lines of clean cracks and faces and add to that the adventure of exploration and discovery.

If "tall" is your major requirement I recommend Mesa Rim, its about as tall as mission gorge can usually be outside of the main wall. Also less crowded on weekends and holds aren't as greasy.
Andrew F · · San Diego, CA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0
GDavis Davis wrote:

Mission Gorge has some of the worst graniteI've ever climbed on, possibly THE worst. Contrived, greasy, extremely urban and too close to down town not to mention the annoying gate and weird way many of the routes were established.

Woodson is considered one of the greatest crack climbing bouldering areas in the US but some routes are almost 40 feet, especially in South Woodson or getting off the beaten track. By far the best stone in San Diego, possibly the best stone in southern california. Amazing, amazing lines of clean cracks and faces and add to that the adventure of exploration and discovery.

If "tall" is your major requirement I recommend Mesa Rim, its about as tall as mission gorge can usually be outside of the main wall. Also less crowded on weekends and holds aren't as greasy.

Fair enough, I take back what I said. I'm dumb and inexperienced so I'm just happy climbing anywhere. But I get what you're saying 

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 622

Threads like this just break my heart.  You're flying a huge way for a climbing trip and the weather is just really, REALLY sucky for the next week in southern California..
With the forecast, I just don't think Red Rocks will be climbable.
What Guy suggested above, to head to southern Arizona is a best bet.
Weather in Tucson looks pretty good.  I assume you are flying into LAX.  It's not a horrible drive to get to Tucson, but you will lose a day on each end.  Mt Lemmon is great and there is an excellent guidebook available.  It's also beautiful there, with a fantastic botanical garden and good food.

If you do decide to stay in southern California, you could climb in Joshua Tree, if it opens,  in between the rain.  While you are waiting for the opening, Fairview Mountain in Apple Valley has a good guidebook available online and about 30% of the stuff there is trad climbing.
So sorry!

Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 7,604
Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Roy Suggett wrote: Dry Falls   mountainproject.com/area/10…

Based on the weather forecast it's probable this won't be Dry Falls next week. 

GSmo · · San Diego, CA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

According to the other thread, and this article, Jtree is gonna stay open.

Kyle vH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 16
phylp wrote: Threads like this just break my heart.  You're flying a huge way for a climbing trip and the weather is just really, REALLY sucky for the next week in southern California..
With the forecast, I just don't think Red Rocks will be climbable.
What Guy suggested above, to head to southern Arizona is a best bet.
Weather in Tucson looks pretty good.  I assume you are flying into LAX.  It's not a horrible drive to get to Tucson, but you will lose a day on each end.  Mt Lemmon is great and there is an excellent guidebook available.  It's also beautiful there, with a fantastic botanical garden and good food.

If you do decide to stay in southern California, you could climb in Joshua Tree, if it opens,  in between the rain.  While you are waiting for the opening, Fairview Mountain in Apple Valley has a good guidebook available online and about 30% of the stuff there is trad climbing.
So sorry!

This guy is right. Very unlucky for you. 

Keep in mind most of these posts are not good spots to go to or are possibly sarcastic and/or will also be wet. Jtree, Red Rock, then AZ in that order, is probably your best move. Apple Valley and many of the smaller crags mentioned just are not world class--which you deserve to get to with your big investment. Idyllwild or Apple Valley are just back ups if you get kinda stuck in the area with nothing to do (they are good, just second tier/much smaller). And Idyl will likely be getting snow which could make travel hard in a rental.

Any chance you could get to Indian Creek? I'd go there as #3 behind JTree and RR. Drive in shifts though the night. Go for world class--you're traveling the world to get here. 
Thomas Claiborne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 15

Idyllwild or bust.

x15x15 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 205
Kyle vH wrote:
Idyllwild or Apple Valley are just back ups if you get kinda stuck in the area with nothing to do (they are good, just second tier/much smaller). And Idyl will likely be getting snow...
Lmfao... Kyle either doesn't know what he is talking out... or he just HOOKED me...

Good troll brahji!!! 
jt newgard · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 185

Idyllwild, second tier?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

TRIGGERED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kyle vH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 16
x15x15 wrote: Lmfao... Kyle either doesn't know what he is talking out... or he just HOOKED me...

Good troll brahji!!! 

Yeah that came out wrong, I just meant to say only hit Taquitz if it's raining in JTree and RR but somehow miraculously sunny and dry in Taquitz. 

I shouldn't have said second tier, I'll run 10 laps on Open Book as penance. Forgive me Royal!!

I ski there in the winter, climb in the summer--def one of my fav spots--I just think for an international traveler JT and RR are more American West iconic...
Ed Henicle · · Santa Rosa, CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,325
Perfect British climbing forecast
Rowland Penty · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Ed Henicle wrote:
Perfect British climbing forecast
Yeah don’t worry, we’re headed to Jtree. I don’t think I’ve ever climbed in the UK with a forecast better than that
Live Perched · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 5
Rowland Penty wrote: Yeah don’t worry, we’re headed to Jtree. I don’t think I’ve ever climbed in the UK with a forecast better than that

Nice.  Monzogranite isn’t bad when it’s wet.  I found the day after rain a bit tricky, since sand and gravel accumulate in the cracks (but I wouldn’t swear to that being a general phenomenon).  Enjoy. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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