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Joshua tree alternative recommendations?


Original Post
Rowland Penty · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

We are coming over from England on Sat 12th for a week of climbing in JTree. It's now looking like it will be shut from Thursday onwards.

Any suggestions for alternatives? We would ideally like a similar style of climbing i.e. single pitch cracks, but also open to other suggestions.

We have a full (triple) trad rack but only a single rope. Though I guess we could go buy another if an area needed double ropes.

Thanks

Update as I have  hit a limit on replying to my own thread:
- Thanks for all the responses
- We are already in San Diego for work, so changing travel plans is not an option
- We don't mind driving quite a bit as long as the climbing is good
- Any info on Canon El Tajo, Mexico? From the little information I can find it looks pretty good!
- Looks like the park shutdown might not last long, so hopefully this will all be in vain (very hopefully...)

drjman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 2,494

Red Rock, in Las Vegas. 2-3 hours away from Jtree, but the climbing is top notch.

Also, there’s word Jtree might be open again on the 12th. Just keep an eye on Park updates. 

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,100

Climbing open at jtree. No camping. Same at red rocks.

bus driver · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 1,120
Saint George Utah Utah has a variety of climbing. It has its own airport or it’s about a 5 hour drive from Joshua Tree or 1.5 from Las Vegas.

Snow Canyon  state park won’t be closed and is a nice spot for camping. I think they have hot showers.  There is single and multi pitch sport with some trad routes in Snow Canyon and lots of other crags within 20-30 minutes.  Or there are places to camp for free or lots of hotel and timeshare options. 

If it starts raining, you can Drive an hour or two north and ski at Brian Head or Eagle Point or ice climb for a day at hidden haven.  
Alex Davis · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5
dave custer wrote: Climbing open at jtree. No camping. Same at red rocks.

Is that true (I hope it is)?  the gov website says that its closing tomorrow morning....  https://www.nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/conditions.htm

Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,187
dave custer wrote: Climbing open at jtree. No camping. Same at red rocks.

I do not believe that to be true of JTree. The gates will be closed and vehicles will not be able to enter. I guess one might still be able to climb by walking into Indian Cove.

corpse · · jtree area · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 5
Allen Sanderson wrote:

I do not believe that to be true of JTree. The gates will be closed and vehicles will not be able to enter. I guess one might still be able to climb by walking into Indian Cove.

During a complete closure, walking into indian cove or ANY part of nearly 800,000 acres will be illegal (someone correct me if I am)

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
dave custer wrote: Climbing open at jtree. No camping. Same at red rocks.

Nope. Entire park will be closed and entrances gated, Read the links above.

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 161

There are not too many places where a double rope (or half ropes) are needed.  If JTree is closed (and the info is that the gates to the park will be closed), the best close alternative is Red Rocks.  The rock is not at all similar, but there are lots of great routes.  There are a number of smaller crags in and around So Cal (Apple Valley, New Jack City, Mission Gorge, Malibu Creek...) but it would be a shame to fly all the way out from the UK to make a lap through these areas.  Depending on how you feel about the cold (and just how cold it is) there is excellent climbing on rock similar to JTree in Alabama Hills and Owens River Gorge is nearby a few hours north of Los Angeles.

Kyle vH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 16

Where are you flying in to? How long are you here for?
Red Rock is completely incredible and a legit alternative to JTree--very unique, beautiful. There are definitely some amazing splitter single pitch cracks.

Rowland Penty · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Thanks for the suggestions, Red Rock seems like the obvious alternative.

Our climbing dates are Sat 12th to Sat 19th. There is currently rain forecast for early next week, which apparently means at least 72 hours of no climbing and at most 3-4 days of no climbing at red rock, right? Does that change the recommendation at all?

Joe O'Connor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
Matt Himmelstein wrote: There are not too many places where a double rope (or half ropes) are needed.  If JTree is closed (and the info is that the gates to the park will be closed), the best close alternative is Red Rocks.  The rock is not at all similar, but there are lots of great routes.  There are a number of smaller crags in and around So Cal (Apple Valley, New Jack City, Mission Gorge, Malibu Creek...) but it would be a shame to fly all the way out from the UK to make a lap through these areas.  Depending on how you feel about the cold (and just how cold it is) there is excellent climbing on rock similar to JTree in Alabama Hills and Owens River Gorge is nearby a few hours north of Los Angeles.

Flying from England to climb Mission Gorge will leave you very disappointed. Though there are lots of routes, expect large crowds, rei workshops, and slick rock. Not to mention the rain coming in this weekend. 

Live Perched · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 5

MT Lemmon and Cochise Stronghold. We combined those locations with J Tree in one January trip. Also stopped at Imperial Dunes which was fun. 

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 151
Matt Himmelstein wrote: There are not too many places where a double rope (or half ropes) are needed.  If JTree is closed (and the info is that the gates to the park will be closed), the best close alternative is Red Rocks.  The rock is not at all similar, but there are lots of great routes.  There are a number of smaller crags in and around So Cal (Apple Valley, New Jack City, Mission Gorge, Malibu Creek...) but it would be a shame to fly all the way out from the UK to make a lap through these areas.  Depending on how you feel about the cold (and just how cold it is) there is excellent climbing on rock similar to JTree in Alabama Hills and Owens River Gorge is nearby a few hours north of Los Angeles.

Sweet mother of gawwwd.

OP - Do your self a favor and do not listen to any of this if your initial goal was climbing cracks at joshua tree. All of the above mentioned areas are sport wanking crags.

I heard woodson had a few cracks to climb, you might have a brush in with a few locals but nothing to be worried about.
Kyle vH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 16

Yeah, rain could really spoil a RR trip, it is definitely fragile when wet/drying. Where are you flying into? And how far are you willing to drive?

The smaller crags around So Cal is terrible advise for international travelers. If you're coming this far you should go to a world class spot--potentially driving up to the Sierra would work if the forecast is warm/sunny there.

David N · · Los angeles · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Word on the street is that Joshua Tree is going to be closed for a few days. NPR said they are going to try and reopen this weekend sometime, redrock is great but not if it rains.if you are flying into LA the sunnier walls in yosemite could be an option. Its worth at least exploring that option, that place is magical this time of year. 

Rowland Penty · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Kyle vH wrote: Yeah, rain could really spoil a RR trip, it is definitely fragile when wet/drying. Where are you flying into? And how far are you willing to drive?

The smaller crags around So Cal is terrible advise for international travelers. If you're coming this far you should go to a world class spot--potentially driving up to the Sierra would work if the forecast is warm/sunny there.

Seems like there's a big storm hitting the whole area next week.


Basically willing to drive as far as needed to find some decent climbing!
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
David N wrote: Word on the street is that Joshua Tree is going to be closed for a few days. NPR said they are going to try and reopen this weekend sometime, redrock is great but not if it rains.if you are flying into LA the sunnier walls in yosemite could be an option. Its worth at least exploring that option, that place is magical this time of year. 

Keep in mind if going to the Valley from the south:


Wawona Road (Highway 41) Restrictions
Park rangers will screen incoming vehicles at South Entrance from 9 am to 6 pm, allowing only those with a reservation for lodging or camping inside the park to proceed. All others will be asked to enter Yosemite via Highway 140. Local residents and guests staying in Yosemite Valley, Yosemite West, and Wawona will be allowed to enter via South Entrance.
Visitors planning to visit the Yosemite Ski and Snowboard Area will be asked to enter the park via Highway 140.
Rowland Penty · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
David N wrote: Word on the street is that Joshua Tree is going to be closed for a few days. NPR said they are going to try and reopen this weekend sometime, redrock is great but not if it rains.if you are flying into LA the sunnier walls in yosemite could be an option. Its worth at least exploring that option, that place is magical this time of year. 


Thanks for the info, will definitely keep on the lookout for updates.

Looking at the forecast for Yosemite over the next week (12th - 19th) do you think it is climb-able?
dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,100

That was fast; on Monday, climbing was a thing...

Mick S · · Utah · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 60
Rowland Penty wrote:


Thanks for the info, will definitely keep on the lookout for updates.

Looking at the forecast for Yosemite over the next week (12th - 19th) do you think it is climb-able?

Not looking good. As mentioned above, Cochise Stronghold and Lemmon are nice options with the bad weather. If the weather improves, you could combine that with Sedona which is quite good. Be aware that the Stronghold is confusing on your first visit, and the rock in Sedona is soft, but both are definitely worthy options.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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