Mountain Project Logo

Best routes in red river gorge for beginners?


Original Post
Anthony Haamen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 25

I’ve never been to the RRG. But on the way back home from my Honeymoon I’m meeting some friends there.

I was curious if someone could tell me the best beginner routes at  <5.7 in the RRG. (There seems to be so much there it’s overwhelming)

 My wife climbs at a bit lower grade than me, and we both haven’t climbed in a month or two. But we do trad, sport, and TR. 

Thanks!

jsanders · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 195

Practice wall, guides wall, and bruise brothers wall. All at Muir valley. I haven’t been there a ton, but those would seem to fit the bill. 

Juffrey T. · · Louisville KY · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 10

Chica bonita at pmrp. I wouldn't recommend going down the hill if you don't have 4x4 with high ground clearance. Park at the top of the hill parking lot before you go down.

At Miller fork, there's the nursery and camelot. Both are a bit of a hike. You can drive a car to the parking area but drive slow so you don't bottom out too much.

Patrick Miller · · Indiana · Joined May 2017 · Points: 210
  1. The Nursery @ Miller Fork. Also The Playpin . I bolted a bunch of easy stuff under 5.8 y'all should be able to get on. Hit me up when ya head out , I'm always out that way and could show ya around. 
Josh Gates · · Wilmington, DE · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 2

Muir - Recess Rock, then the others mentioned. Definitely the most bang for your buck at those grades. Chica has really only 2 routes 5.7 or below. They're fun, but not necessarily worth it. The hike's not bad - steep but short. 

Pjm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 20
Anthony Haamen wrote: I’ve never been to the RRG. But on the way back home from my Honeymoon I’m meeting some friends there.

I was curious if someone could tell me the best beginner routes at  <5.7 in the RRG. (There seems to be so much there it’s overwhelming)

 My wife climbs at a bit lower grade than me, and we both haven’t climbed in a month or two. But we do trad, sport, and TR. 

Thanks!

Look up Eureka - it's the best 5.6 sport route ever and located in the Global Village area. About 80ft tall and just about vertical from the start. You will love it and disregard the notes in MP about loose rock, that's all been long removed. After that go around the corner to Vision which is a tall 5.7 trad. It does have a crack to start (fist size), but after 10ft of that you cruise to the top at 5.7 and it's nice and long. If you are in Muir, do yourself a favor and go climb Dyn-O-Mite (sport) at the great arch. Rating is 5.9- but it's nowhere near 5.9-. I would grade it at 5.7+ and it's just a pure fun jug haul for 80ft (tell her it's 5.7). Then run up the climb next to it,called Powder Keg, rated 5.10 (just for the initial roof pull but you can climb around that on the left) but it's easy 5.9 after that. We had a handful of beginners there last fall and I couldn't keep them from running laps on Dyn-O-Mite. Enjoy!

Anthony Haamen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 25
Pjm wrote:

Look up Eureka - it's the best 5.6 sport route ever and located in the Global Village area. About 80ft tall and just about vertical from the start. You will love it and disregard the notes in MP about loose rock, that's all been long removed. After that go around the corner to Vision which is a tall 5.7 trad. It does have a crack to start (fist size), but after 10ft of that you cruise to the top at 5.7 and it's nice and long. If you are in Muir, do yourself a favor and go climb Dyn-O-Mite (sport) at the great arch. Rating is 5.9- but it's nowhere near 5.9-. I would grade it at 5.7+ and it's just a pure fun jug haul for 80ft (tell her it's 5.7). Then run up the climb next to it,called Powder Keg, rated 5.10 (just for the initial roof pull but you can climb around that on the left) but it's easy 5.9 after that. We had a handful of beginners there last fall and I couldn't keep them from running laps on Dyn-O-Mite. Enjoy!

WOw thank you so much! I’m going to screenshot your reply and definitely hit those up!

Anthony Haamen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 25
Patrick Miller wrote:
  1. The Nursery @ Miller Fork. Also The Playpin . I bolted a bunch of easy stuff under 5.8 y'all should be able to get on. Hit me up when ya head out , I'm always out that way and could show ya around. 

Thanks so much! Maybe I will. We will be there this coming Saturday and Monday 

Anthony Haamen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 25
jsanders wrote: Practice wall, guides wall, and bruise brothers wall. All at Muir valley. I haven’t been there a ton, but those would seem to fit the bill. 

Got it, Muir valley. Thank you!

Chase Morgan · · Washington, D.C. · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Muir has a lot of easier stuff and all the climbs are labeled with little metal imprints. Depending on where you normally climb, you may find you are able to climb a lot harder at the Red than you do elsewhere. 

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

Never heard of  "The Playpin" - where is this crag?

Patrick Miller · · Indiana · Joined May 2017 · Points: 210
amarius wrote: Never heard of  "The Playpin" - where is this crag?

Miller  Fork. Just past the Nursery. Very new. 

Brad "Stonyman" Killough · · Alabama · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 5,785

Courthouse Rock has a easy scramble with opportunity to place gear with a great view at the top. There is a 2 1/2 mile hike downhill in and gradual grade back out. A nice hike.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
Post a Reply to "Best routes in red river gorge for beginners?"

Log In to Reply