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Big Bro 5 is back!


E Mann · · front range CO · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 11

If someone offered you a yellow big bro for an otherwise run out squeeze chimney or 300$ to run it out, what would you buy first?

abandon moderation · · Tahoe · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 138
E Mann wrote: If someone offered you a yellow big bro for an otherwise run out squeeze chimney or 300$ to run it out, what would you buy first?

I would buy a $300 glass case to display my gold big bro in.

Billcoe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 833
E Mann wrote: If someone offered you a yellow big bro for an otherwise run out squeeze chimney or 300$ to run it out, what would you buy first?

Depends on my health insurance and what the fall looked like. 1 broken bone can set you back megathousands and take you right out of the game. So the question is this: (spoken in Dirty Harry voice) "Do you think you can you stick the landing?!!! Well....do ya punk?" Bam

rob.calm · · Loveland, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 630
Bryan wrote:


Wow that's a big piece of pro.

Nice bit of advertising but one historical correction. Craig  Luebben did not invent them for his Ph.D. project. It was his senior thesis project in mechanical engineering. I was on his committee so no doubt about it. 

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 30
Briggs Lazalde wrote: Only making 100 units at 300$ a pop. Ill skip OW for now

Making at least 100, not just 100.

Robert Rowsam · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 120

I don't really get this piece. It's pretty much impossible to fall out of this size squeeze, unless your a really big person and can't fit. It's usually rated 5.9, but is as secure as 3rd class

rkrum · · Here and there · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 75

You guys realize it isn't actually OFFwidth if you can fit inside??? That's sort of the definition of offwidth.

Although if you load up on enough vg 12s and gold and blue bros, I can see how this would turn into an offwidth experience...

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,734
Robert Rowsam wrote: I don't really get this piece. It's pretty much impossible to fall out of this size squeeze, unless your a really big person and can't fit. It's usually rated 5.9, but is as secure as 3rd class

I get what you're saying, and you're right.  However, in the scenario where it's a squeeze, then opens up into bigger than a squeeze, i.e. you can fall and fall out of the crack, it's nice to have some pro below you even though you didn't need it immediately during the squeeze chimney portion.  It's a unique scenario, granted, but it's also a unique, niche piece of gear.  Also, climbers come in all different sizes.  

Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
Robert Rowsam wrote: I don't really get this piece. It's pretty much impossible to fall out of this size squeeze, unless your a really big person and can't fit. It's usually rated 5.9, but is as secure as 3rd class

They are handy for wider chimneys hanging over space.  It's not something too common but I def want one for routes like this mountainproject.com/photo/1…

Brian Seegers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10
Christopher Smith wrote:

They are handy for wider chimneys hanging over space.  It's not something too common but I def want one for routes like this mountainproject.com/photo/1…

Huh? Do those smaller cracks on either side not take good gear?

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,186

I bet $300 seems like a steal when you're thrutching in the clutches of a gaping maw.

You don't want to be a hotdog in a hallway.

Nawmean?

Cheers,

CM

Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
Brian Seegers wrote:

Huh? Do those smaller cracks on either side not take good gear?

In that case yes.  There are other similar chimneys that don't have options like that.  Even so in this case the big bro a ways out in the chimney is probably a better piece of pro as far as limiting rope drag once you exit the chimney on that pitch.  That's really where I see the biggest advantage for big bros is being able to redirect ropes to reduce drag and limit pieces walking into a crack in multipitch with alot of wide stuff.  It's definitely a very specialized use case that they excel in.

Billcoe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 833

Some of these squeeze chimneys can be slick and a #5 piece is nice to have.

Billcoe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 833

I couldn't resist, I'm selling mine, for just over the price of a single new #5 you can have a used set of all sizes (1-5) in good shape ($350). If I was in any shape to get up anything I'd be keeping them, but my knee is @##$%^edup fairly bad and once you start getting an AARP card things don't heal fast. ​https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116361566/2-complete-full-sets-of-big-bros-including-the-gold-5s-12-total-2-ea-1-bros-2-br​​​

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210

Has anyone actually fallen on one of these?

abandon moderation · · Tahoe · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 138
Ted Pinson wrote: Has anyone actually fallen on one of these?

If someone sends me their gold bro, I'll record me taking a whip onto it and either I or my beneficiary will post the results to MP. 


Pamela Pack claims she could place big bros securely enough that her partners started carrying a rubber mallet to remove them, so I think I have a chance of survival.
Fehim Hasecic · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 130
abandon moderation wrote:

If someone sends me their gold bro, I'll record me taking a whip onto it and either I or my beneficiary will post the results to MP. 


Pamela Pack claims she could place big bros securely enough that her partners started carrying a rubber mallet to remove them, so I think I have a chance of survival.

Rubber mallet for what? To hit themselves in head to figure out how to remove it?

abandon moderation · · Tahoe · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 138
Fehim Hasecic wrote:

Rubber mallet for what? To hit themselves in head to figure out how to remove it?

I assume on ones placed without the spring being extended. But I am a mere mortal, the gods may know how to fuse a big bro into the rock.

Zacks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 65

I'll keep my $300
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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