Worst climbing crag in America.

The worst climbing crag is almost certainly one of the many craglets with ~3 terrible bolted routes that some bored local developer decided (mistakenly) were worth the hardware cost. Just because it's rock and kind of steep doesn't mean you need to bolt it. Oh great, an awkward 30' tall route that's 5.4 to 5 feet of 5.11, just what I wanted. I can name spots in almost every state I've lived that qualify, but, New England, I'm looking at you.

On the other hand, some of these craglets are actually awesome so you take the good with the bad.

There's a short urban wall of limestone, in northern Vermont. There's a large pile of garbage at the bottom. I went there about 30 years ago and top roped a  route that I thought was so bad that we named it no deposit no return. For some stupid reason I returned about 20 years later to find that somebody had cleaned off some of the choss and bolted it. Somebody had a habit of bolting garbage routes whenever he broke up with a girlfriend.

Anything in Maryland.

Alan Rubin wrote:

Context matters. In those rock-deprived regions of the Midwest, such outcrops are slices of paradise!!!

Nah, I lived in northwest ohio for years and would still never go to the mad. I’d rather drive further to a better crag, go to a gym, or not climb at all then go to that dump

Any place where unleashed dogs roam free and get into things.  

Drew L wrote: Whipps Ledges, OH

I might have to fight you on this one. I have climbed about half the worthwhile routes at Whipps and I have to say that is pretty fun for what it is. Great as a top rope area and the few trad lines are short and stout. I haven't had a chance to get back there yet but I want to over the summer.

No love for Ohio here

The worst in Colorado is probably better than most in Ohio. But shelf road is.pretty terrible and.somehow people still go there 

I miss Pnelson. RIP

5 pages and only one photo. Your opinion is worthless without a photo to back it up. Jus’sayn! 

Seth Bleazard wrote:

No love for Ohio here

On the contrary, I find Ohio’s bouldering to be quite good. It just got shafted on the glacier index to where there aren’t that many route opportunities

Salamanizer Ski wrote:

5 pages and only one photo. Your opinion is worthless without a photo to back it up. Jus’sayn! 

That  would mean going back there and it ain't happening

James Arnold wrote:

I miss Pnelson. RIP

Ditto. Thanks for the reminder, made me smile

new jack city. across all categories, a horrible climbing area. leave it to the snakes. 

Forrset Pials wrote:

I was gonna say quincy. Good God the graffiti there is the worst thing ever. Makes it so fucking slippery

A third vote for the Quincy Quarries - I've had many memorable days there, but it certainly has it's quirks.

For the NTM haters, remember that North Table Mountain is CLOSER to Denver than the QQ is to Boston. So it's pretty incredible for near-city climbing.

Jason Antin wrote:

A third vote for the Quincy Quarries - I've had many memorable days there, but it certainly has it's quirks.

For the NTM haters, remember that North Table Mountain is CLOSER to Denver than the QQ is to Boston. So it's pretty incredible for near-city climbing.

I literally don't understand why people would climb at Quincy Quarry at all. That place is so bad: graffiti and broken glass infested, and the routes are nothing special at all. Crow Hill/Red Rock at Gloucester/College Rock are also kinda close to Boston, and at least have some quality routes, not to mention the actually good bouldering areas (Lynn Wood/Lincoln Wood). Leave that place to troubled kids for their shenanigans :)

trailridge wrote:

The worst in Colorado is probably better than most in Ohio. But shelf road is.pretty terrible and.somehow people still go there 

Whipps ledges > Shelf 

Alan Rubin wrote:

Context matters. In those rock-deprived regions of the Midwest, such outcrops are slices of paradise!!!

For context Mad River Gorge is like 3 hrs from the Red…Ohio is also not as rock deprived as you’d think. There is some average rock scattered throughout the state. Chippewa Creek, Athens area, and a few other places even have some problems some would call gems. 

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

Whipps ledges > Shelf 

For context Mad River Gorge is like 3 hrs from the Red…Ohio is also not as rock deprived as you’d think. There is some average rock scattered throughout the state. Chippewa Creek, Athens area, and a few other places even have some problems some would call gems. 

We had a new area open in Beaver Creek State Park that has some good quality rock and really fun routes. I highly recommend Ohio climbers check it out.

Ohio Climbers Coalition is working really hard to expand access to the high quality rock in Ohio but it just takes a lot of time.

Chimacum Rock on Washington's Olympic Peninsula.  Poor rock,  bad anchors,  few redeeming qualities, closed to the public, a sacred site to local Native Americans.  Leave it alone.

Mnt File wrote:

new jack city. across all categories, a horrible climbing area. leave it to the snakes. 

There is some good climbing there and the desert is beautiful...what makes New Jack City a candidate for worst crag is the people.