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Finger strength training while shoulder injury


Original Post
Matt G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0

About a week ago I injured my shoulder climbing.  I use a hangboard for alot of my training at home,  but since I hurt my shoulder I am not able to use my hangboard at all. What are some good finger strengthening exercises I can do while my shoulder heals? I want to keep working my finger/ grip strength because I'm not sure how long it will take for my shoulder to heal. Thanks. 

Super Fluke · · Earth · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 182

I found this classic hand strengthening exercise a while back.

Rice Bucket, The way of the iron fist.

1 Iron Fist - Stab your fingers deep into the rice and then make a fist. Retract. Repeat. This is my hand. I want it strong."
2 Screaming Talon – Stab your fingers deep into the rice and then open your hand wide. Retract, palms away from you. Repeat. Your hand is afraid of the rice. The rice should be afraid of your hand."
3 Fists of Fury – Embed fists deep in rice. Rotate one direction. Don’t worry that you can’t see. Fear is the only darkness. Breathe.
4 Fists of Fury, Part II – Embed fist deep in rice. Rotate other direction. Seek not to know the answers, but to understand the questions.
5 Wax on, Wax off – Embed fists deep in rice. Move fists side to side. Don’t think. Feel. Focus on the art of climbing without climbing.
6 Paint the Fence – Embed fists deep in rice.  Move fists up and down. Patience, Grasshopper.
7 Snatch the Pebble – On the surface, snatch rice quickly with your fingers over and over.  Keep your form. The rice has only images and illusions behind which it hides its true motives.  Destroy the image and you will break the rice.  Do not spill rice on floor.
8 Magic Palm – On surface push rice away with fingers. Stay under control while you reflect on life failures. Spill rice on floor at your own peril.
9 Gouge the Eye – Dig you thumbs deep into the rice repeatedly. Remember that you learn most about life from your greatest enemies.
10 Eagle Claw – Stab rice with fingers together and claw at it. Don’t be tender. An eagle can break a wolf’s back with one strike.
11 Crush the Pebble – Grab handfuls of rice and attempt to make gruel out of it, quickly and repeatedly. Only the undisciplined spill rice on the floor. Control the rice. It is your destiny.
12 Essence Absorbing Stance – Lightly caress handfuls of rice, move into your most powerful stance, then squeeze. In time you will learn to absorb the essence of the rice. It is only then that you will be truly powerful.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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