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Shoulder stretches

Original Post
Seth Bleazard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 395

I just finished a six week training season and I am starting a new one and my shoulders feel strained. Are there any post session stretches I could do? 

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Be careful. It is not always that simple with shoulders. Right now I am working on specific PT due to impingement. The only specific stretching is trying to get into the posterior joint capsule and most of that is only possible from the PT doing manual manipulation. There is very little I can do on my own. The rest is strengthening specific muscle groups. It may be some time before I can consider stretching in other ways. Your problem may be entirely different than mine. Shoulders are not simple joints with simple musculature and if you stretch the wrong thing, you could be in for a world of hurt. Last time I had it this seriously it ended in surgery, partly I believe because I had some wrong PT for the actual underlying problem. There is not a one size fits all solution.

Mike D · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 845

This article by a local pro climber is a good place to start. I have a lingering shoulder injury from years of ultra-distance triathlon training, and Madaleine’s advice is starting to turn it around. 

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.climbing.com/.amp/skills/essential-shoulder-strengthening-exercises/

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

There's no solid scientific evidence that stretching helps recovery.
Sometimes it hinders.
Mostly just a waste of time (scientifically / evidentially).

Recent research has been showing that stretching weakens muscles.

Especially be careful doing unnatural things to your shoulders.
Complicated articulation, easy for climbers to injure. Difficult to heal.

Animals don't stretch, but somehow their muscles know how to recover.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
kenr wrote: There's no solid scientific evidence that stretching helps recovery.
Sometimes it hinders.
Mostly just a waste of time (scientifically / evidentially).

Recent research has been showing that stretching weakens muscles.

FWIW, last time I looked at the literature, it seemed pretty clear that hamstring flexibility, at least, could be increased by stretching.

There are certainly many anecdotal reports that stretching increases ROM. (Now including from me.)

I agree that there's no good basis to expect stretching to aid recovery from either fatigue or injury.

Can you cite the 'stretching weakens muscles' paper?

I'm familiar with some of the work about static stretching and decreased MVC, but was struck by the poster at the 2016 IRCRA meeting that rebutted this effect for climbing.

@OP- Eric Horst has a good stretching routine in his latest book.

Training for Climbing​​​
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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