Mountain Project Logo

Fancy Schmancy Anchors


Original Post
Michael M · · Rockville, MD · Joined May 2018 · Points: 20

Thought I’d share some fancy schmancy anchors I was messing around with at Earth Treks the other day.



This variation of the equalette is pretty neat. It is based on the detail on page 99 of Soccorso Su Roccia Tecniche Di Base (codice-3.org/PDF/manuale%20…). There are a bunch of other anchors from this publication I want to get acquainted with at some point.

Another solid publication is SAR3 Simple Anchors Made From Rope by Thomas Evans app.box.com/s/ztwhke6f5f2a0….

IIRC, the last three are from a CMC Rescue publication where they used multiple load cells to measure the proportion of the load distributed to each leg of various load-distributing anchors.

Truth be told, I prefer load-sharing anchors due to the risk of shock loading a load-distributing anchor if a cam blows. Would I actually use these anchors over a cordelette or quad – perhaps not, but you never know.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Way too much macrame for me. YMMV. 

Sebastian Reichelt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

The the ones at the bottom look mildly dangerous to me. Especially the last one, given the large amount of extension if one bolt fails. In all three, the rope/sling is not redundant. The top one looked ok to me but complicated.

Chase G · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 114

To note, the CMC publication stated that none of the anchor configurations did well at load-sharing and in fact, when 1 anchor point failed they developed high max arrest forces with poor equalization (keep in mind these were intended to be load-distributing anchors).

Coupled with the fact that they are NOT redundant and simply meant to serve a purpose in a equalization test, YGD. Don't use these.

Edit: Here's the CMC publication itrsonline.org/PapersFolder…

Adrienne DiRosario · · Troy, NY · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

But why?

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 357

K.I.S.S.

Drew L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

The first looks interesting but jeeze so many knots. 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Chase G wrote: To note, the CMC publication stated that none of the anchor configurations did well at load-sharing and in fact, when 1 anchor point failed they developed high max arrest forces with poor equalization (keep in mind these were intended to be load-distributing anchors).

Coupled with the fact that they are NOT redundant and simply meant to serve a purpose in a equalization test, YGD. Don't use these.

As well as realizing that equalization is a myth, esp with more than two pieces. 

F loyd · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 361

What happened to K.I.S.S.?

John Hegyes · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 5,360

Are you joking?? Those are the worst anchors I've ever seen.

HBTHREE · · ma · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 30

does your gym not have some normal lower offs, maybe something rapped around the top to give more friction? It's also tough to tell from the angle but your master point looks very low to the ground, a little rope stretch and voila groundfall, just saying...

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210
Adrienne DiRosario wrote: But why?


Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 111

"Get strong placements and tie yourself to them."

--Jim Titt

All the rest is bullshit.

If you took one big figure 8 on a bight and clipped it into all 3 bolts you would be done.

Or 3 individual cloves. Forget about extension or load sharing as it doesn't matter for shit. You either have strong placements or you don't. You cannot load share enough to matter nor is limiting extension really a thing worth worrying about. I mean, I play around with my anchor once done to tidy things up a bit. But that's just for kicks and grins.

Nick B · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 61

As mentioned above, skip all the bullshit and get really good at building fast, sound, simple anchors.   Half of those anchors fail to be redundant despite being on 3 bolts....

Michael M · · Rockville, MD · Joined May 2018 · Points: 20
HBTHREE wrote: does your gym not have some normal lower offs, maybe something rapped around the top to give more friction? It's also tough to tell from the angle but your master point looks very low to the ground, a little rope stretch and voila groundfall, just saying...

Master point is just above waist level so you're already on the ground  . They have anchor building stations off in the corner at most Earth Treks so you have a spot to practice. They'd flip out if you built an anchor at the top of a climb. 

Michael M · · Rockville, MD · Joined May 2018 · Points: 20
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: "Get strong placements and tie yourself to them."

--Jim Titt

All the rest is bullshit.

If you took one big figure 8 on a bight and clipped it into all 3 bolts you would be done.

Or 3 individual cloves. Forget about extension or load sharing as it doesn't matter for shit. You either have strong placements or you don't. You cannot load share enough to matter nor is limiting extension really a thing worth worrying about. I mean, I play around with my anchor once done to tidy things up a bit. But that's just for kicks and grins.

Agree.

Better?
JFM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,768

There ya go! Fast and good. 

Malcolm Daly · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

I have 3 rules for anchor building:

  • Bomber
  • Bomber
  • Bomber
  • Multidirectional
Oops. My Bad. That’s four rules, but who’s counting. If you don’t make your anchors multidirectional they are worthless for belaying your leader.
Everything else is bullshit.

Thank you Jim Titt for your words of wisdom above. “Make strong placements and tie yourself to them.”

Climb safe,

Malcolm
Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 111
Michael M wrote:

Agree.

Better?

Yes, but lose the cordellette for bolted anchors. It makes you look like a noob. 

I have no problem with one to haul off of, but for a regular free climbing anchor it looks like you don't understand the quality of your bolts. Tie in with your rope.
Chase G · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 114
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

Yes, but lose the cordellette for bolted anchors. It makes you look like a noob. 

I have no problem with one to haul off of, but for a regular free climbing anchor it looks like you don't understand the quality of your bolts. Tie in with your rope.

What if you're leading in blocks? Or not swapping leads at all? Cord makes things much easier in that case.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 111

Nope. Just use draws like my picture. doesn't take any more or less time to change over.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
Post a Reply to "Fancy Schmancy Anchors"

Log In to Reply