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Hands or feet?


aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 294
Anthony McGlynn wrote:

They're tight but not 2 sizes down. My toes curl a bit but they're not normally painful just wearing them while i belay. I have no problems keeping them on the whole time I'm there. So I don't think so? 

Don't keep your shoes on the whole time you're in the gym. Only put them on when you're going to climb something, change into street shoes / flip flops when you're done climbing.

Ryan M Moore · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 35

You’ve been climbing 6 months and you had strong upper body strength to begin with= your technique is terrible, most likely your footwork, but also probably your body positioning. Had a friend who can do one arm planches and pull ups. Was climbing 5.10 in 3 months in the gym, and then stayed there for a year until his footwork and technique caught up. Climbing outside was the biggest improvement for him. Quiet feet drills in the gym also helps.

Crag Hag · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 15

Different scenario/opinion: When I broke my hip a year and a half ago, I pretty much knew I'd be starting from square one. Yeah, I climbed hard before and had good crack/stemming and slab technique... but this wasn't the case post-op.

My sports medicine doctor (who also climbs) suggested yoga to help build my muscle and core strength while also helping my flexibility; he also suggested to begin bouldering on the V-funs.  When I bouldered, I mostly worked on my footwork and balance: i.e. traversing, back stepping, down climbing, etc.. I worried about attempting harder grades after I noticed significant improvement. The Metolius 10 min hangboard workout mentioned above is really good... if you are able, I'd definitely look into getting one.

IMO sometimes a softer shoe that is fit to comfort (I've never sized down to be fair, so my opinion is biased) is good to start with. It allows you to feel the different hold shapes which in hindsight can help you place your foot correctly.  

I know you aren't recovering from an injury or anything, but taking my time and practicing my technique is what helped me get back to where I left off....

or you can just SEND IT BRAJJJJJ !!1!!~!

\m/

Anthony McGlynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the advice guys I really appreciate it. I know I'm not going to be able to send a 14b in my first year or anything crazy like that. I just want to make sure I'm working on my weaknesses in the right order. I went in over the weekend and specifically took more time playing with my balance, adjusting my positioning and just overall taking it slower and making sure I was in a solid spot and I sent a route I've been struggling with for a long time. Its one of the 9s i haven't been able to do yet. Now granted I fell about 7 or 8 times attempting it but I finished the route that I wasn't able to do before. My feet killed me by the end but I realized something about that too. Its really only my left big toe. I have a snapped ligament in that toe from a tournament a few years ago so I think that's the culprit there. Long story short I'm not specifically weak anywhere physically, I just suck at climbing which is good to know

Anthony McGlynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

Oh yeah and to answer a couple of other questions on here. I am wearing katana lace ups that I snagged on here. I really like them. Also I climb at north summit climbing gym in windgap PA right now. Hoping to get back outside if we ever get a dry day again though. 

Deirdre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 10

I have some suggestions, Take or leave as you see fit. I have a martial arts background so I know the mindset. :-)

It seems that you are doing a lot of training. Is it possible that you are overdoing it and just tiring yourself out?

Martial artists train to ignore pain. I know that I used to climb until I injured fingers and in one case an ankle so badly it needed surgery. If you are doing that you are not going to progress very much. Learn to back off.

I found that my mindset had to change for me to be able to climb relatively injury free. I was taught to give it all every time I trained. This made it hard to relax and in climbing, you have to relax.

It is also possible that you need to assess your technique. Instead of focusing on gripping think about balance. Make sure that you are training your core.

I'm thinking that you also need to strengthen your feet. There are exercises you can do - walking on toes and heels, toe scrunches,  etc. Wearing stiff shoes isn't a bad idea. For my first year back climbing, I used the entry-level La Sportiva shoes. You don't want aggressive shoes away. I think you need to build up to those.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210
Anthony McGlynn wrote: Oh yeah and to answer a couple of other questions on here. I am wearing katana lace ups that I snagged on here. I really like them. Also I climb at north summit climbing gym in windgap PA right now. Hoping to get back outside if we ever get a dry day again though. 

That shoe is definitely not going to hold you back from 5.9.  However, it is a weird fit for some and that big toe is a common hotspot for people.  If you’re experiencing pain when you put pressure on it, then you’re not going to want to and that weight is going to be on your hands instead.

jt newgard · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 195

Maybe try to do the 5.8 routes and make it feel as easy as possible.

You can rely on your strength to do the 5.8s, but these easier routes could also be a good place to hone your technique and float up the wall like a happy butterfly lol

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 840
Anthony McGlynn wrote: Oh yeah and to answer a couple of other questions on here. I am wearing katana lace ups that I snagged on here. I really like them. Also I climb at north summit climbing gym in windgap PA right now. Hoping to get back outside if we ever get a dry day again though. 

Dude.  That's where I climb, I live in Naz.  You should know, that gym sets stiff.  Go to Gravity Vault (they set soft) and you'll be doing 10s and 11s.  I'll PM you.

Troy . · · Elkview, WV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

I've never been to a gym that has had sandbagged routes. If the routes are sandbagged get ready for a big confidence boost with outside climbing but if they're easier than outdoor grades get ready for a rude awakening outdoors :D Any who, have fun 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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