I haven't been climbing for over 10 year and you are telling me...

I haven't been climbing for over 10 year and you are telling me I don't don't need my cordelette any more?

Oh and equalization is a myth?

Trying to start more arguments?

You are pretty well correct on both counts.

Some around here will have your head for cordellete thoughts, but it is still just a choice whether to carry excess gear.

And correct, equalization doesn't work. That doesn't mean not to make legs of your anchor as close to equal as possible, but there are other ways to create bomber anchors just the same.

Seems pretty silly to beat this dead horse all over again again again...

Not wanting to start an argument (that's on those that argue.)
Look, I have read through much of the forum and it may feel like old hat to those that post here but I haven't been reading this forum or read about climbing at all for 10 years. I got my gear out, dusted my books off, got back in the gym... and I am boning up.

I read High - Advanced Multi Pitch Climbing, any other material out there this current on this, seems most the stuff I have is really dated.

You never did have to have a cordelette, it was just something people came up with during a period of time. I happen to love them, so I have two. Sure, I can make an anchor with just the rope and other variations. On the route New Era at Garden of the Gods, I only use two pieces and use the rope as part of the anchor. This saves a lot of time and you have a nice place to sit when you belay your second. 

Stephen Shomo wrote: Not wanting to start an argument (that's on those that argue.)
Look, I have read through much of the forum and it may feel like old hat to those that post here but I haven't been reading this forum or read about climbing at all for 10 years. I got my gear out, dusted my books off, got back in the gym... and I am boning up.

I read High - Advanced Multi Pitch Climbing, any other material out there this current on this, seems most the stuff I have is really dated.

Hey, nothing personal, my snark is due to the umpteen anchor building threads that in typical MP fashion have degenerated far beyond ridiculousness over these very same points. Welcome to Romper Room! (Snarky emoji)

Good to see your interested in climbing again.  You didn't mention what your skill level or preferred style was, but you will get current fastest finding committed, motivated partners.  Best of luck with that, it's the hardest step.

TR at New River, then few multi pitch at Seneca Rocks, then got busy with life. Turning 50 in January working my way back down to 170 :P

I was never really was drawn to hard climbs. A 5.10 in New River at my most motivated (sport seemed too boring to be that hard.) I enjoy the exposure that multi pitch offers. So now.... Got a new wife now, kids out of house, career stabilized.

Wife wants to climb, so sorting out leading with her on a grigri and no cordelettes its seems.... I need something safe she is younger than me and knows I have good insurance.

 

You're so close to the New some sport with fresh quickdraws would be a chance to meet others and build confidence.  And you can get spouse insurance to reduce the head game there.  Rushing it leads to errors in judgement.

I'd suggest doing things just the way you used to do them---at least at first.  Ten-year old skills aren't all that out of date.  By all means use cordelettes if you're more comfortable with them.  As for equalization, it was never a realistic goal and by and large that didn't matter.  If you place good anchor pieces and rig them with a cordelette you'll be fine.  The danger in the equalization myth was placing four 3 kN pieces and thinking you had a 12 kN anchor.

There will be plenty of time to learn new tricks once you've got your sea legs back.

rgold wrote: I'd suggest doing things just the way you used to do them---at least at first.  Ten-year old skills aren't all that out of date.  By all means use cordelettes if you're more comfortable with them.

There will be plenty of time to learn new tricks once you've got your sea legs back.

^^^^ THIS ^^^

What Rgold sais. Just make sure you remember those old tricks correctly. Play at home with the various setups until you have them wired again.

Stephen Shomo wrote:..... I need something safe she is younger than me and knows I have good insurance.