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Wanting to go out west in march, suggestions?


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Matthew Mollica · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 12

Whats up folks! I am mostly a sport climber and boulderer who has no money for a rack so trad is out of the question. Looking for some ideas, what would you recommend me and a couple friends go climb? I climb around v7 and 5.12c, (I also live in the sandbagged south haha). Thanks!

KyleSmith · · Palm Springs, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 714

Las Vegas? Awesome bouldering at Red Rocks, and the sport is pretty great too. The limestone sport around Vegas has a lot of hard lines so that'd be right up your alley as well. Las Vegas is also one of the few places I can think of that has awesome bouldering and sport in the same area. Bishop is another area that might qualify as having large amounts of both sport and bouldering.

Matthew Mollica · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 12
KyleSmith wrote: Las Vegas? Awesome bouldering at Red Rocks, and the sport is pretty great too. The limestone sport around Vegas has a lot of hard lines so that'd be right up your alley as well. Las Vegas is also one of the few places I can think of that has awesome bouldering and sport in the same area. Bishop is another area that might qualify as having large amounts of both sport and bouldering.

We were checking that out and it seems like that would be the furthest we can drive. We are really interested in utah and have been looking a little at Ibex, any info?

KyleSmith · · Palm Springs, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 714
Matthew Mollica wrote:

We were checking that out and it seems like that would be the furthest we can drive. We are really interested in utah and have been looking a little at Ibex, any info?

If you don't want to drive as far as Vegas, just go to Colorado. It'll be Shelf Road season, and I'm sure you could find some bouldering that would be in season although it would probably be a bit of a drive from the in season sport areas. Otherwise go to Joe's Valley, UT for stellar bouldering, then you'll have to drive elsewhere for sport.


I haven't personally been to Ibex, but if you're driving that far anyways you might as well go the extra 5 hours to Vegas. Or 3 hours to Saint George, UT. I'm sure you'd have a decent time at Ibex but it isn't really a place people would drive cross country for. It's a little bit less documented from what I understand. There also aren't any amenities for quite a while in any direction, which might be difficult if you guys are staying long term.

Just looked at drive time from TN, you're going to be driving over 24 hours no matter what between Vegas, Ibex, Saint George. All about the same drive wise. So otherwise just go to Colorado or perhaps adventure in NM.
Slim Vincent · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Joe's Valley and Ibex in Utah and Roy in New Mexico.

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 13,550

Texas Canyon...beautiful location, you need nothing but draws and your rope, lots of fun sport routes, and a new guidebook (Feb/March).

Matthew Mollica · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 12
KyleSmith wrote:

If you don't want to drive as far as Vegas, just go to Colorado. It'll be Shelf Road season, and I'm sure you could find some bouldering that would be in season although it would probably be a bit of a drive from the in season sport areas. Otherwise go to Joe's Valley, UT for stellar bouldering, then you'll have to drive elsewhere for sport.


I haven't personally been to Ibex, but if you're driving that far anyways you might as well go the extra 5 hours to Vegas. Or 3 hours to Saint George, UT. I'm sure you'd have a decent time at Ibex but it isn't really a place people would drive cross country for. It's a little bit less documented from what I understand. There also aren't any amenities for quite a while in any direction, which might be difficult if you guys are staying long term.

Just looked at drive time from TN, you're going to be driving over 24 hours no matter what between Vegas, Ibex, Saint George. All about the same drive wise. So otherwise just go to Colorado or perhaps adventure in NM.

Thanks for all your info! What would you recommend in new mexico?

Matthew Mollica · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 12
Slim Vincent wrote: Joe's Valley and Ibex in Utah and Roy in New Mexico.

Have you personally been to Ibex? The remoteness and beauty is very attractive to us as we want to have a little adventure in there and kinda go off the beaten path.

KyleSmith · · Palm Springs, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 714
Matthew Mollica wrote:

Thanks for all your info! What would you recommend in new mexico?

If you want remoteness, Roy, NM would be exploration bouldering. Sport climbing is a few hours from it but Enchanted Tower and other areas are supposed to be good, and also remote.


As another note, flying into Las Vegas and renting a vehicle will be much cheaper and a more time efficient option if you only have a short time period, instead of driving 28 hours each way. That's more expensive than a plane ticket. You can rent bouldering pads in town somewhere I'm sure.
Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

Bishop. The Buttermilks are world class bouldering. Owens River Gorge has endless sport. Lots of other nearby sport and bouldering. 

Matthew Mollica · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 12
Señor Arroz wrote: Bishop. The Buttermilks are world class bouldering. Owens River Gorge has endless sport. Lots of other nearby sport and bouldering. 

That’s a little far for us. We considered but it would be 4 days of driving which is a huge bummer.

Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Matthew Mollica wrote:

That’s a little far for us. We considered but it would be 4 days of driving which is a huge bummer.

Yep. Not worth 4 days of driving. I agree with what others said about flying into LV, then. You could hit Red Rocks and Bishop or J-tree on that trip and I think it'd cost less than 8 days of driving. 

Slim Vincent · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0
Matthew Mollica wrote:

Have you personally been to Ibex? The remoteness and beauty is very attractive to us as we want to have a little adventure in there and kinda go off the beaten path.

I have not and always kick myself when I can't make it.  The people I know who like it love solitude and the hard style of climbing there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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