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Post Awesome Trad Movies Here #2


Nate Redon · · Seattle, WA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 1,008

This guy posts some awesome videos. Check out the other stuff as well.

Mike G · · Pennsyltucky · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
Nate Redon wrote:

This guy posts some awesome videos. Check out the other stuff as well.


That’s a high quality pleasant video and he was super smooth but why is that R.

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 205
Mike G wrote:

That’s a high quality pleasant video and he was super smooth but why is that R.

Hard to tell from the video.  Those first couple pieces of gear look fairly small, and maybe insecure?  Also looks like basalt, which can be pretty smooth and tricky with small gear. And, looks like a decent run out to the chains, but it did look like there were gear placements if he wanted them and no huge risks from a fall at that point. 

Great video, though, especially with a drone.  I don't feel like I'm seasick after watching it.  

Tom Sherman · · Bristol, RI · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 417
Nate Redon wrote:

This guy posts some awesome videos. Check out the other stuff as well.

Confirmation! We've got sweaty hands...


Jeff G. · · Lyons · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 927
zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 495
Mike G wrote:

That’s a high quality pleasant video and he was super smooth but why is that R.

What happened to the #3 cam? 

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 205


Nate, you were right.. so many good videos.  
Really enjoy the 8 bit music vibes and the friendly butterfly in this one.  The rock, setting and climbing are pretty good, too. 
Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,346
Paul L wrote:


Nate, you were right.. so many good videos.  
Really enjoy the 8 bit music vibes and the friendly butterfly in this one.  The rock, setting and climbing are pretty good, too. 

Haha, that butterfly is a badass! 

Dave Holliday · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,402
Mike G wrote:

That’s a high quality pleasant video and he was super smooth but why is that R.

A route's seriousness rating can also come from suspect gear in suspect rock. It's hard to evaluate rock quality and gear placements from a video but I suspect that the piece before the #3 Camalot might not be all that and a fall there would deposit you on the ground. The only way to really tell is to climb it yourself and report back.

It's an excellent video and the route looks awesome.
McHull · · SCPA · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 250
Paul L wrote:


Nate, you were right.. so many good videos.  
Really enjoy the 8 bit music vibes and the friendly butterfly in this one.  The rock, setting and climbing are pretty good, too.

Beautiful line! Where is this?

Briggs Lazalde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
Jaren Watson wrote:

Haha, that butterfly is a badass! 

Dude butterfly on the #3 at the beginning. I'm immediately like "this dude is definitely sending". I've had wild birds come land on me while cooking in camp. Good omens for the send for sure

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 75
McHull wrote:

Beautiful line! Where is this?

Japan. 

Trust me, the weather is horrendous. NOT remotely a climbing destination. Snowy in winter, monsoon in summer.

If you look carefully at the end when the camera pans out you can see most of the crag is munge with this one buttress offering the possibility of dry rock if you hit the perfect window ie even the cracks to the climber's left and right are running with water.
AaronJ · · Saint Louis, MO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 231
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

Japan. 

Trust me, the weather is horrendous. NOT remotely a climbing destination. Snowy in winter, monsoon in summer.

If you look carefully at the end when the camera pans out you can see most of the crag is munge with this one buttress offering the possibility of dry rock if you hit the perfect window ie even the crack to the climber's left is running with water.

This is nonsense.

The area in the butterfly video is called Mizugakiyama. It has hundreds of routes and boulders, with a two-volume guidebook. The developed climbing is not remotely chossy. It is too cold to climb during the winter, though I believe the boulderers still brave the cold. The climbing season is April--November, but of course you might have to wait for a dry weekend for the 6-week rainy season in June-July.

During the winter you can enjoy the andesite (similar to basalt, but very good friction and mostly great for gear placements in my experience) sea-side cracks at Jogasaki, the crag in the other video.

Trust me, the weather is not horrendous in Japan. You can climb excellent, if not necessarily world-class, trad, sport, bouldering, and alpine year-round if you're based in Tokyo.

Apologies if the quoted post was facetious, hard to tell around here sometimes.
Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 75

Lived in Japan for 2 years.

Weather fucking sucks for rock climbing.

Worst weather for climbing I could imagine. If its not raining or snowing its 95 degrees with 95% humidity.

AaronJ · · Saint Louis, MO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 231
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: Lived in Japan for 2 years.

Weather fucking sucks for rock climbing.

Worst weather for climbing I could imagine. If its not raining or snowing its 95 degrees with 95% humidity.

Those must have been a rough couple of years.

I've lived here for 5 years. I have had a very different experience than you, apparently. Great climbing year-round.
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210
Nate Redon wrote:

This guy posts some awesome videos. Check out the other stuff as well.


Holy crap the video quality is incredible.  Is that 4k?  I haven't been keeping up with video tech but I definitely a noticed a difference there.  Gorgeous rock, too...I could see the R rating.  That first piece seemed pretty damn marginal and almost everything was small except that one #3.  There were a few spots where he was in groundfall territory and definitely if any of it pulled...very well done.

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 205

I'm not going to post any more of that guy's videos, everyone should just go watch them.  Some are a bit heavy on the editing, but they have some of the best quality video and best drone footage I've seen, pro footage or otherwise.  And, no matter what HB says, the videographer makes Japan's rock climbing look pretty damn enticing.  The setting in most of those climbs looks pretty amazing.  Even if you were to travel there to climb and it didn't work out, what's the worst that could happen?  You spend some time eating awesome food and exploring what looks to be a pretty beautiful country.  

Briggs Lazalde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

I am a huge fan of videos that don't edit out gear placements. Thumbs up for these video editors.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 75
Paul L wrote: I'm not going to post any more of that guy's videos, everyone should just go watch them.  Some are a bit heavy on the editing, but they have some of the best quality video and best drone footage I've seen, pro footage or otherwise.  And, no matter what HB says, the videographer makes Japan's rock climbing look pretty damn enticing.  The setting in most of those climbs looks pretty amazing.  Even if you were to travel there to climb and it didn't work out, what's the worst that could happen?  You spend some time eating awesome food and exploring what looks to be a pretty beautiful country.  

Japan is the most expensive country on Earth for most things. I would love to return for many reasons. But climbing would be the last thing I would do there.

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,569

please stop repeating the same video, that said I haven't bothered to keep up
has this been added?


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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