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Post Awesome Trad Movies Here #2


Ryan Pfleger · · North Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 20
Christopher Smith wrote:

Holy cam nests Batman!

Love it. The fourth placement is basically an entire set of X4s. One .1, two .2s, one .3. Makes me feel like less of a Nancy.

Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:




This guy is my brother from another mother!!!

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 205

Probably posted in the old thread.  Never get tired of watching brits climb hard trad on the sketchiest of gear.. 

Jared Moore · · Tahoe City, CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 130
Mark H · · No where in particular · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Classic 

Seth Bleazard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 296


Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 10,761

I got the feeling Honnold et al were ridiculing the E grade there. That lowly E9 6c on Cloggy is still waiting for an onsight...

Justin. S · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 120

I’m pretty sure that video is from they went over there and downgraded all of James Pierson's routes which ended his climbing career for a while. Most of those routes are basically a highball with a piece of pro at the bottom so you don’t fall down the hill. Spicy shit for sure. 

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 10,761
Justin. S wrote: I’m pretty sure that video is from they went over there and downgraded all of James Pierson's routes which ended his climbing career for a while. Most of those routes are basically a highball with a piece of pro at the bottom so you don’t fall down the hill. Spicy shit for sure. 

I know they did a few of the high E classics, I'm not sure of how many Pearson's routes they repeated (maybe they should have tried "Walk of Life"). Honnold did impressive onsights of Gaia, and End of the Affair maybe, neither of which are Pearson routes. How on earth could they end his career for a while? He's every bit as good as they are - nice guy too.

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 10,761


TJ B · · Lakewood · Joined May 2012 · Points: 26

Have you seen his documentary Redemption? Great flick. Poor guy. I’m no expert on the situation and I’ve only seen it once but I remember he graded some of his routes higher and higher just because he honestly thought they were harder than the previous routes, and they took more time for him to send. Then the US team came across and destroyed all those routes pretty easily and downgraded them, which made James spiral and he felt embarrassed. 

Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
Paul L wrote:

Probably posted in the old thread.  Never get tired of watching brits climb hard trad on the sketchiest of gear.. 

Wow, that has everything....barely there slung horns, shallow cams in questionable rock and even a weighted hook placement.

Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,505
Chris Owen wrote: I got the feeling Honnold et al were ridiculing the E grade there. That lowly E9 6c on Cloggy is still waiting for an onsight...

I didn’t get that impression. I took it as Matt making a lame joke and Alex and Kevin awkwardly laughing since the camera was rolling.

David K · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 144


Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 205
Christopher Smith wrote:

Wow, that has everything....barely there slung horns, shallow cams in questionable rock and even a weighted hook placement.

Yeah, pretty wild.  I couldn't help but think at the end, when she's talking about not really enjoying the finish, that she's probably unconsciously just so happy to be alive that she can't really appreciate anything else.  

Justin. S · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 120
Chris Owen wrote:

I know they did a few of the high E classics, I'm not sure of how many Pearson's routes they repeated (maybe they should have tried "Walk of Life"). Honnold did impressive onsights of Gaia, and End of the Affair maybe, neither of which are Pearson routes. How on earth could they end his career for a while? He's every bit as good as they are - nice guy too.

There’s a documentary on it someone mentioned above called Redemption. He put up two FA’s of new never climbed grades at the time and they did the second and third ascent immediately downgrading them. One of the routes Honnold does with one hand slapping the Arete the entire way. Kind of messed up they clown on the grade in the movie versus of just being nonchalant and just saying it’s not as hard as he thought, but it is what it is. In their defense Pearson couldn’t send Dave MacLeods Rhapsody and then went and listed his own climb as harder. The documentary is really good and he talks about how he graded them harder each time due to the fact they were harder than the last ones he put up and so on. I could see how that would happen when you’re one of a very small group putting up R&X rated gritstone routes. 

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 10,761

Ahh - I'll have to check it out. I must confess I was more impressed by Honnold's onsight of Gaia than anything to do with Pearson. He took a monster fall off Walk of Life and didn't get hurt so how can it be E12? Casual repeats of the harder grit routes don't carry much credence if they've been rehearsed, but onsights of them is very impressive.

Justin. S · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 120

I agree with the rehearsal versus onsight with the grit stone routes. I was able to meet Douggie Hall my last trip to the valley and hearing about some of those routes from someone who would work 9-5 and then just go out and and put them up or do onsights of the new hardest routes was pretty cool. Guy was still out on Astroman at 65!

Seth Bleazard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 296

Say what you want about James Pearson, but it is undeniable that he can make some pretty funny videos. I would add James Pearson's Le Bronx but that is a sport climbing video.

Justin. S · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 120
Seth Bleazard wrote:

Say what you want about James Pearson, but it is undeniable that he can make some pretty funny videos. I would add James Pearson's Le Bronx but that is a sport climbing video.


Not bashing on Pearson, he’s epic!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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