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Thoughts on these bolts?


Original Post
Andrew F · · San Diego, CA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Went climbing at the local crag yesterday and came across these two bolts at the top of a route for toproping. The hangers could be moved completely around the bolt. The bolts seemed pretty solid, but it seemed like the holes weren't drilled deep enough for the bolt.

We didn't end up climbing on them, it wasn't worth the risk to us. Just wanted to see what other people thought. It's the first time I've come across this. Thanks! 


Nicholas Kozlowski · · Idaho Falls, ID · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

8/10 would whip.

If you're truly concerned, talk to the local climbers and find out who bolted them, as it is your "local" crag. Ask them how old they are, what type of bolts, if they do recommend replacing them or not, and maybe they should bulletin the route(s) for closed to climbing.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,321

Those appear to be plated 5-piece bolts. The hangers are stainless, and the bolts have surface rust. They are most likely fine, although they should be replaced before the cone rusts to the point that it fuses with the bolt, else the hole will not be reused. Next time, bring a short crescent wrench and tighten them down. If they just turn without tightening, that means the cone is already fixed to the bolt - but even in that case I would still use that anchor for a top-rope setup. 

Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,506

Spinners are very common and don’t indicate anything about the quality of the bolt. Keep a wrench in your crag pack.

As for this particular scenario, they look safe to me.

Andrew F · · San Diego, CA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Awesome! Thanks for your input guys. Like I said, it's the first time I've come across it, so we opted to stay off it just to be safe.

Thanks for clearing it up though 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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