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Sport climber laybacks his way up desert towers! - North six shooter, Moses, Rectory, Ancient art.


Original Post
Dennis · · Boston, MA · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 555

In Nov 2018 I took my third trip to the Moab area with the intention of bagging some desert towers. I went with my friend Cres. Don’t let his 28” waist fool you, he’s a burly sport climber whose strength, cooking skill, and willingness to carry beer, make him an asset to any climbing endeavor.

We flew from Boston to SLC, rented a jeep, and drove straight to Wall Street to get dialed in on a few roadside routes. The next morning we drove to Supercrack Buttress to hit some of the classics… Supercrack, Coyne crack, and IHC.


Here’s Cres on Supercrack. We later found out the new guidebook recommends eight #3 camalots (too many), we had three (just enough?).

We camped at Superbowl Campground. It had a great view of our next objective: Lightning Bolt cracks on the North Six Shooter.

Chef Cres

We took the Davis Canyon road approach. From the campground it was ~30 min drive + 1 hour hike to the base. Very straightforward.

We parked here at a prominent fork in the road and several cairns marked the approach hike.

Starting the first pitch.

Cres approaches the first belay.

Starting P2

Looking back at the 1st belay

The “spectacular belay ledge” at the end of P2.

Leading P3

Cres immediately after the squeeze chimney

Summit time!

Ancient bolt seen on the rappel.

Amazing views the entire day.

Final view of the formation.

Fall foliage!

Next up… Primrose Dihedrals. We were unable to obtain camping permits at Taylor or Labyrinth campgrounds within Canyonlands. These campgrounds are the closest to Moses and have amazing scenery. However, it turned out not to be a problem as the park is surrounded by BLM land with loads of free beautiful camping. This developed site is along the White Rim road a few miles before the park’s border.


Approach to Moses

Cres contemplates the opening moves. The #5 camalot was clutch. The second used a long sling to lower it to the ground as we didn’t need it for the rest of the route. Score!

Approaching the P2 belay

Cres starts P3

Jamming(!) his way to the P4 belay

Cres combined P5/6. Amazing lead btw! The Ear looming above.

Bumped into Aaron and Drew on the route. Here’s Aaron following P5.

Drew topping out the Ear

Summit time!

Back on terra firma.

Someone (I) thought they saw cliff dwellings in the distance from the summit…. They weren’t. But the extra 4 mile hike was nice active recovery, right Cres?

Next up…. Fine Jade on the Rectory! This pic is from my 2006 ascent. Hard to imagine a more perfect route for its position and climbing quality.




Final tower: Ancient Art. This was the perfect way to wind down the trip. When we got the base there were two parties on the route and 3 folks waiting at the base. Thankfully, the three waiting decided to bail. Score!

Here I am wondering why anyone would choose to climb this ‘rock’.

Butt sliding my way to glory

The free climbing on the bolted sections was actually quite fun.

Cres and Jack on the summit.
F loyd · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 361
Dennis wrote: In Nov 2018 I took my third trip to the Moab area with the intention of bagging some desert towers. I went with my friend Cres. Don’t let his 28” waist fool you, he’s a burly sport climber whose strength, cooking skill, and willingness to carry beer, make him an asset to any climbing endeavor.

We flew from Boston to SLC, rented a jeep, and drove straight to Wall Street to get dialed in on a few roadside routes. The next morning we drove to Supercrack Buttress to hit some of the classics… Supercrack, Coyne crack, and IHC.

Here’s Cres on Supercrack. We later found out the new guidebook recommends eight #3 camalots (too many), we had three (just enough?).

We camped at Superbowl Campground. It had a great view of our next objective: Lightning Bolt cracks on the North Six Shooter.

Chef Cres

We took the Davis Canyon road approach. From the campground it was ~30 min drive + 1 hour hike to the base. Very straightforward.

We parked here at a prominent fork in the road and several cairns marked the approach hike.

Starting the first pitch.

Cres approaches the first belay.

Starting P2

Looking back at the 1st belay

The “spectacular belay ledge” at the end of P2.

Leading P3

Cres immediately after the squeeze chimney

Summit time!

Ancient bolt seen on the rappel.

Amazing views the entire day.

Final view of the formation.

Fall foliage!

Next up… Primrose Dihedrals. We were unable to obtain camping permits at Taylor or Labyrinth campgrounds within Canyonlands. These campgrounds are the closest to Moses and have amazing scenery. However, it turned out not to be a problem as the park is surrounded by BLM land with loads of free beautiful camping. This developed site is along the White Rim road a few miles before the park’s border.


Approach to Moses

Cres contemplates the opening moves. The #5 camalot was clutch. The second used a long sling to lower it to the ground as we didn’t need it for the rest of the route. Score!

Approaching the P2 belay

Cres starts P3

Jamming(!) his way to the P4 belay

Cres combined P5/6. Amazing lead btw! The Ear looming above.

Bumped into Aaron and Drew on the route. Here’s Aaron following P5.

Drew topping out the Ear

Summit time!

Back on terra firma.

Someone (I) thought they saw cliff dwellings in the distance from the summit…. They weren’t. But the extra 4 mile hike was nice active recovery, right Cres?

Next up…. Fine Jade on the Rectory! This pic is from my 2006 ascent. Hard to imagine a more perfect route for its position and climbing quality.




Final tower: Ancient Art. This was the perfect way to wind down the trip. When we got the base there were two parties on the route and 3 folks waiting at the base. Thankfully, the three waiting decided to bail. Score!

Here I am wondering why anyone would choose to climb this ‘rock’.

Butt sliding my way to glory

The free climbing on the bolted sections was actually quite fun.

Cres and Jack on the summit.

There goes my Data for the month...

Tim Lutz · · Colo-Rado Springs · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5

holy photo dump batman

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210
Floyd Eggers wrote:

There goes my Data for the month...

And since you quoted it: there it goes for the rest of us.

F loyd · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 361
Ted Pinson wrote:

And since you quoted it: there it goes for the rest of us.

I know

Dennis · · Boston, MA · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 555

This Thanksgiving, I'm thankful for unlimited data

Caleb S · · Loveland, Co · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

Awesome trip report!

Kyle L · · Garden Grove, CA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 45

Thanks for the excellent trip report! Happy Thanksgiving!

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
Dennis wrote: In Nov 2018 I took my third trip to the Moab area with the intention of bagging some desert towers. I went with my friend Cres. Don’t let his 28” waist fool you, he’s a burly sport climber whose strength, cooking skill, and willingness to carry beer, make him an asset to any climbing endeavor.

We flew from Boston to SLC, rented a jeep, and drove straight to Wall Street to get dialed in on a few roadside routes. The next morning we drove to Supercrack Buttress to hit some of the classics… Supercrack, Coyne crack, and IHC.

Here’s Cres on Supercrack. We later found out the new guidebook recommends eight #3 camalots (too many), we had three (just enough?).

We camped at Superbowl Campground. It had a great view of our next objective: Lightning Bolt cracks on the North Six Shooter.

Chef Cres

We took the Davis Canyon road approach. From the campground it was ~30 min drive + 1 hour hike to the base. Very straightforward.

We parked here at a prominent fork in the road and several cairns marked the approach hike.

Starting the first pitch.

Cres approaches the first belay.

Starting P2

Looking back at the 1st belay

The “spectacular belay ledge” at the end of P2.

Leading P3

Cres immediately after the squeeze chimney

Summit time!

Ancient bolt seen on the rappel.

Amazing views the entire day.

Final view of the formation.

Fall foliage!

Next up… Primrose Dihedrals. We were unable to obtain camping permits at Taylor or Labyrinth campgrounds within Canyonlands. These campgrounds are the closest to Moses and have amazing scenery. However, it turned out not to be a problem as the park is surrounded by BLM land with loads of free beautiful camping. This developed site is along the White Rim road a few miles before the park’s border.


Approach to Moses

Cres contemplates the opening moves. The #5 camalot was clutch. The second used a long sling to lower it to the ground as we didn’t need it for the rest of the route. Score!

Approaching the P2 belay

Cres starts P3

Jamming(!) his way to the P4 belay

Cres combined P5/6. Amazing lead btw! The Ear looming above.

Bumped into Aaron and Drew on the route. Here’s Aaron following P5.

Drew topping out the Ear

Summit time!

Back on terra firma.

Someone (I) thought they saw cliff dwellings in the distance from the summit…. They weren’t. But the extra 4 mile hike was nice active recovery, right Cres?

Next up…. Fine Jade on the Rectory! This pic is from my 2006 ascent. Hard to imagine a more perfect route for its position and climbing quality.




Final tower: Ancient Art. This was the perfect way to wind down the trip. When we got the base there were two parties on the route and 3 folks waiting at the base. Thankfully, the three waiting decided to bail. Score!

Here I am wondering why anyone would choose to climb this ‘rock’.

Butt sliding my way to glory

The free climbing on the bolted sections was actually quite fun.

Cres and Jack on the summit.

Cheers

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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