Mountain Project Logo

Anyone 200+ lbs and sending 5.13? Can it be done???


PRRose · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0
Old lady H wrote: More fun, what sort of route could a big guy rock that spits everyone else out? I'm on the other end of the spectrum, and I'm certain there are routes I'll fit into others won't. Not 13, though, lol on that one!

So my two cents? Maybe a reachy bigass roof with an off hand sorta crack? That's good hands if you are built for it? Or, so big it spits out smaller people but a big guy/lady gets a nice leg jam?

This is like that boulder problem thread. Really depends on the individual and the route. But, I know so many guys who hover around 200, big guys, who are youngish and strong, I most certainly think they could do 13 if they really went after it.

If you change disciplines to Alpine or ice, that body mass becomes a real plus for endurance on hard crap with ugly approaches. Entirely different animal, but who climbs harder, eh?

Best, Helen

The people I'm thinking of were slabmasters.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 196
Ben Collett wrote: John Dunne is rather short. I very much doubt he has ever weighed 200 lbs. Toni Lemprecht is really the best example of a heavy crusher. There are plenty of clydesdales who climb 5.13.

Toni has a climb called, "Power of Lard" (a 5.13)? That's completely awesome.

David N · · Los angeles · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

I'll let you know when I get it done 

Nate Doyle · · Sierra Foothills · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 39

It can be done but, I'm focusing my efforts on 5.8s right now. 

Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,505
Nate Doyle wrote: It can be done but, I'm focusing my efforts on 5.8s right now. 

I used to weigh 210 pounds. Then I lost 45 pounds. Now I crush 5.8.

I hope my story of triumph inspires you forever.
Nate Doyle · · Sierra Foothills · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 39
Jaren Watson wrote:

I used to weigh 210 pounds. Then I lost 45 pounds. Now I crush 5.8.

I hope my story of triumph inspires you forever.

Thanks Jaren! 

I started at 5.16 and have been working my way up to 5.8 ever since. Someday I hope to send 5.9 or maybe even 6.0. But you're right, that will require me to drop the weight. Either that or gain a better understanding of how decimal systems work.
Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,505
Nate Doyle wrote:

Thanks Jaren! 

I started at 5.16 and have been working my way up to 5.8 ever since. Someday I hope to send 5.9 or maybe even 6.0. But you're right, that will require me to drop the weight. Either that or gain a better understanding of how decimal systems work.

I had a choice to make: worry about stupid numbers or lose a metric ton and send the gnar.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Ben Collett wrote: John Dunne is rather short. I very much doubt he has ever weighed 200 lbs. Toni Lemprecht is really the best example of a heavy crusher. There are plenty of clydesdales who climb 5.13.

There´s a list of top climbers weights and heights here https://www.target10a.com/magazin/2017/02/09/koerpergroesse-und-gewicht-von-elitekletterern/ and john Dunne is the only one who cracks the 200lb (90.72kg) barrier on a bad day. They are all crushing a bit more than 5.13 though, that´s not exactly elite climbing  

bridge · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Much respect to Pat Goodman (and I doubt he's anywhere near 200), but he's certainly much less of skeleton than many top climbers.  Trad FAs up to 5.13+ or higher.

https://vimeo.com/96818003
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYDnCVQEpog

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 13,655

Yep...John Long (Largo).

Ryan Pfleger · · North Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 20
Benjamin Chapman wrote: Yep...John Long (Largo).

There is an interview somewhere where Largo talks about lifting a lot of weights and weighing as much as 215 before he started climbing. This makes me doubt he was over 200lbs when he was sending.

Abandoned User · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 6,645

Largo sent Hangover 13b in 1978.
While all of his accomplishments are very impressive and I admire his writing chances are he was not 200+ when he did so.

seamus mcshane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 195

Bob Gaines?

Matt Jones · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 81

I didn't expect this many responses, that's great and inspirational!  Hopefully I can get it done next season.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "Anyone 200+ lbs and sending 5.13? Can it be do…"

Log In to Reply