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Burnin Bolts


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Im Sorry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 20

I live in the SF valley and climb in the Santa Monica mountains a bunch.  Recently we had the "Woolsey" fire.  It took over a ton of land and more specifically Malibu Creek, Echo Cliffs, Boney Bluffs, and a few others.  Stainless steel bolts vs fire?  Who wins?  Also what about the rock?  It's a volcanic and sandstone mix for the most part.  If you really wanna know what rock type it is then look on the pages.  Do all these areas need a new bolting if the routes got fried?  Obvi the rock cant catch fire but it would be heat from the burning brush and trees around the routes.  Lemme know your thoughts.  

Kelley Gilleran · · Sacramento, Ca · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 2,800

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105733881/mount-st-helena

This thread has a lot of info. It was volcanic rock mixed with gniess. 

Maximilian Tagher · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 65

There was some testing done in Australia, after they had some huge fires: youtube.com/watch?v=07cgeE3…

Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 7,894

Contact Johnny Woodward.  He saw "The Horn" in the Henrys' get toasted by a very hot fire.  I saw rock there that appeared to be a little more "brittle" near the ground than what I remembered pre-fire.  The bolts I saw post-fire still looked good on the outside, though they did have some discoloration.

Mike Womack · · Sherman Oaks, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,683

I'm curious as to the condition of all the SM crags as well.  I know strong rock can get very brittle under intense heat

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,823

Intense heat can cause damage to the rock and exfoliation/flaking. If you see that then the bolts might be affected as well - or not. Otherwise you're probably fine.

As an aside...

The mountain shop in Yosemite Valley burned down in the early '70s.

Dirtbag climbers then raided the charred remains for stoppers, bolts, hangers, etc.

Some of those bolts were used on new routes in the '70s - and 30 years later when we replaced them the hangers looked blackened as well as rusty!

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 612
Kelley Gilleran wrote: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105733881/mount-st-helena

This thread has a lot of info. It was volcanic rock mixed with gniess. 

IMO, this video is pretty worthless.    The Hayman fire here in CO burned several of the South Platte climbing area.  It was hot enough to cause serious exfoliation of the granite!  (That butane torch in the video is a joke.)  So you need to look at both the bolt and the rock.   There was a pretty good article in either Climbing or R&I, but I don't remember if much testing of the hardware was done.

You might look up Pete Gallagher, climber and ranger, for more first-hand info.  
Mick S · · Utah · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 60
Kelley Gilleran · · Sacramento, Ca · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 2,800
John Byrnes wrote:

IMO, this video is pretty worthless.    The Hayman fire here in CO burned several of the South Platte climbing area.  It was hot enough to cause serious exfoliation of the granite!  (That butane torch in the video is a joke.)  So you need to look at both the bolt and the rock.   There was a pretty good article in either Climbing or R&I, but I don't remember if much testing of the hardware was done.

You might look up Pete Gallagher, climber and ranger, for more first-hand info.  

Didn't link a vid. It's a link to an entire area that got burned recently and had issues with rock quality. Multiple threads and pics. May have to dig. There isn't any vids on the area front page that I could see.

Edit: may have been talking about the vid posted below my post..
John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 612
Kelley Gilleran wrote:

Didn't link a vid. It's a link to an entire area that got burned recently and had issues with rock quality. Multiple threads and pics. May have to dig. There isn't any vids on the area front page that I could see.

Edit: may have been talking about the vid posted below my post..

Oops, my bad.  You're right, I meant to respond to the other vid.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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