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Building First Rack - Cams for Gunks


B. L. · · New York, NY · Joined May 2015 · Points: 54
Señor Arroz wrote: Interesting re. the Dragons. I've always been put off by the lack of a thumb loop. 

The trigger isn't as good as C4's but they seem to grip the rock better (talking about pre fall) .. something about the 'teeth' on the lobes. Even though most of my rack is BD.. I always feel more secure after placing a Dragon

Danny Poceta · · Calgary · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 40

A basic set of nuts, BD cams .4-3, and a number of slings will get you up most pitches in the gunks, especially the easier grades. Don't waste money on worthless tricams. Get some aliens if you can afford more cams.

Adam Gellman · · Jersey City/Burlington VT · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 170
Señor Arroz wroteAs a beginner you wouldn't go wrong carrying triples of those three size
carrying triples is not a good investment and not a good habit to build. doubles of .4-1 would be very useful but full doubles is way more useful than triples of anything. Also, some small/med tricams and a few big hexes will help you scrape up a ton of pitches on a thin rack
SeƱor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Adam Gellman wrote: carrying triples is not a good investment and not a good habit to build. doubles of .4-1 would be very useful but full doubles is way more useful than triples of anything. Also, some small/med tricams and a few big hexes will help you scrape up a ton of pitches on a thin rack

Really depends. In the Gunks and back east you're probably right. Out West we tend to have a lot of long, moderate multi-pitch routes with extensive cracks. I frequently carry and fully utilize triples in .5, .75 and 1. To be clear to the point of obvious, though, I wasn't saying that should be someone's first priority. I agree that full doubles in .4-#2 would be more useful. 

Taylor Thomas · · Monticello, NY · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Thanks everyone for the advice. I picked up some extra gear from some MP members and Backcountry. Currently have .4-2 on BD Neutrinos. Also have a set of BD stoppers. Still looking for a .3 and a #3 and toying with the idea of a set of tricams based on several people’s input. Excited to get out and get climbing on my own gear. 

Adam Gellman · · Jersey City/Burlington VT · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 170
Señor Arroz wrote:

Really depends. In the Gunks and back east you're probably right. Out West we tend to have a lot of long, moderate multi-pitch routes with extensive cracks. I frequently carry and fully utilize triples in .5, .75 and 1. To be clear to the point of obvious, though, I wasn't saying that should be someone's first priority. I agree that full doubles in .4-#2 would be more useful. 

Totally makes sense. Good thing you are giving me excuses to buy triples and climb out west more to test it out ;-)

Gunks Jesse · · Shawangunk Township, NY · Joined May 2014 · Points: 236

I carried a triple of BD 1 on my rack for two years of weekly (weakly) climbing.  I may have placed that triple a few times.  It doesn’t go on the rack anymore.  A blue boat anchor is nice.  Rather than a double in 2 I found carrying a purple wild country to work nicely.  It’s sweet spot is right between BD 2 and BD 3.  I placed a lot of tricams with a smaller rack but as the rack grew I placed less of them.  I love the C3s for the smaller sizes.  I’ve never placed a BD .1 or black alien (partly because I’ve never owned one).  But the C3s are much loved for small pockets.

If you have climbing partners just get out there with what you have and supplement your gear with pieces of theirs and figure out what system you like and get your system dialed.  It’s gonna be way different that anybody else on the rock that day.

Taylor Thomas · · Monticello, NY · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Gunks Jesse wrote:If you have climbing partners just get out there with what you have and supplement your gear with pieces of theirs and figure out what system you like and get your system dialed.  It’s gonna be way different that anybody else on the rock that day.

Don’t have a solid partner yet. Still looking for someone to train with in the off season and get out there once the spring hits. I’m pretty close to the area so it’s easy to shoot over for a day of climbing. 

A purple Friend fits around the same size as a yellow C4? From my quick research it seems that a purple Friend is around the same size as a purple or green C4? I could be and probably am wrong, I’ve just been looking at getting the Friends, but have currently purchased all C4s. 
bridge · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

I see a few people suggesting triples!

I generally place a lot of pro and might carry triples on a route-specific basis in splitter-crack-centric areas like UT, but would never do so in the Gunks.  Here, triples are just not necessary given the diversity of protection options.  On occasion, I've carried three tiny nuts of roughly the same size, but that's a different story as they're generally placed in multiples as part of a 'nest.'
 
The only time I've ever wanted three of the same piece in the Gunks is when doing a full-length 65m+ pitch from the ground to the top of the cliff, but when you're ready to tackle these sorts of things, you'll be well-prepared to work with the pieces you've got.

Gunks Jesse · · Shawangunk Township, NY · Joined May 2014 · Points: 236

Guess I didn’t know wild country came out with double axles... the old single axels has only one purple.  It’s sweet spot is the middle between 2 and 3.  

DMM offset nuts and peanuts are bomber in the gunks.  Definitely a favorite to place.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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