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Disillusioned with climbing


Original Post
Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,003

Perhaps I am the only one who has discovered this phenomenon, but sometimes it seems like grades in the gym don’t exactly translate to outdoor routes.

I’m beginning to think the indoor grades are slightly inflated.

And if that’s the case, namely, that what I’m being told is not true, then what else isn’t true? Who’s in on this deception, anyway? And what would motivate them to deceive me?

I’m not really looking for advice, just staring into the dark and wondering what it all means.

I used to be so certain.
I don’t know what to believe anymore.

z.schmidt · · Shanghai, China · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

You're looking at it wrong. Gym grades aren't inflated, it is the outdoor grades that are sandbagged.

baldclimber · · Ottawa, Ontario, Canada · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1

1/10

Dana Bartlett · · CO · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 890

Here you go.

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Ryan Pfleger · · North Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 15

I hear ya, buddy. The thing that gets to me is the lack of padding on the outdoor climbs. It really changes my mentality, making it hard to bring my A game to outdoor climbs. I mean sure I could bring a crash pad, but I am already lugging a rope, draws, harness, 6 different pairs of shoes, and a chalk bag. Plus the snacks! I pay taxes, damnit! We need to petition the Department of the Interior for better padded landings in climbing areas. And maybe vending machines at the crag bases, so I don't have to bring my own sports drinks and snickers bars. And don't even get me started about the dirty rappels....

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Keep this conspiracy on the down low cause' just thinking about this could endanger your life but....the "Climbing Illuminati" is behind it.

Follow the money.

Weird, there's a black helicopter outside...

HEY WHO'S THERE AT THE DOOR ALEX NO! ARGHHHH MMMMMPHhhhh.......

Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,003
baldclimber wrote: 1/10

Been talking to my wife about me again, I see.

Mike D · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 834

Ratings schmatings; it’s all VB until you fall. 

Pjm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 10

I'm lucky enough to live in Atlanta and we have two gyms owed by Stone Summit - 60ft walls! However, until you get to the 10+ and 11 range, there are no 7, 8, and 9's that really simulate outdoor climbing in the same range. There are 11's in the gym that feel like some 9 or 10's outdoors and feel like some 11's outdoors. However, moving upward in the vertical is always great practice. Keep climbing and you will see that your practice in the gym will equate to better climbing outdoors. Don't make comparisons - just keep up your gym climbing to get stronger moving upward in the vertical!

Klimbien · · St.George Orem Denver Vegas · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 480
Jaren Watson wrote: Perhaps I am the only one who has discovered this phenomenon, but sometimes it seems like grades in the gym don’t exactly translate to outdoor routes.

I’m beginning to think the indoor grades are slightly inflated.

And if that’s the case, namely, that what I’m being told is not true, then what else isn’t true? Who’s in on this deception, anyway? And what would motivate them to deceive me?

I’m not really looking for advice, just staring into the dark and wondering what it all means.

I used to be so certain.
I don’t know what to believe anymore.

https://youtu.be/FB32DNuQnSM

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,455

If gyms kept the same ratings as outdoors most people would quit! It started out with "true" ratings but savvy owners soon realized that the dirty bags just wouldn't sustain their business, they needed to get into the deep pockets of the weak.

But seriously, this is the only thing you are disillusioned by? What about the...

-Dead men who think climbing was just a game?
-The irrational clinging to long gone FAs?
-The celebration of poverty?
-The entitlement of an ascent?
-The entitlement of safety?
-The ego of choss climbers?

Climbing sucks, get out while you can.

Ska Ggs · · NorthEast Stuck · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 50
baldclimber wrote: 1/10

AGREED^ why bother trolling this topic ... 

you clearly climbed enough to know the nature of grades from gym to crag... the real question you should be asking yourself is ... "why do I pose stupid questions when I already know the answer ...?"
 ... I too should ask myself "why do I bother writing this when I could be more productive elsewhere in life ..."  I guess we all have things to work on
Fritz Nuffer · · The Western Slope · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 125
Ska Ggs wrote:

why do I bother writing this when I could be more productive elsewhere in life ..."  I guess we all have things to work on

QED

Fritz Nuffer · · The Western Slope · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 125
Jaren Watson wrote:

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

It depends on indoors route setting culture. E.g. in Russia the most common approach is gym RP grade <= outdoors flash/on-sight grade for those familiar with outdoors climbing. In the U.S. it depends on gym. E.g. Planite Granite Sunnyvale FL/OS grade >= outdoors RP grade although there is (was?) a nice climbing gym in Fremont with grades more or less equivalent to outdoors.

Carolina · · Farmington, NC · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 75

Im at work. So basically nothing really important going on here Ska Ggs so Ill troll on in...

Tradi is right.  Climbing is dangerous and silly. Might as well throw in the towel.

EDIT: Fritz is right too. Have you hugged a goat today?

Bill Shubert · · Lexington, MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 55
Jaren Watson wrote: Perhaps I am the only one who has discovered this phenomenon, but sometimes it seems like grades in the gym don’t exactly translate to outdoor routes.

I’m beginning to think the indoor grades are slightly inflated.

And if that’s the case, namely, that what I’m being told is not true, then what else isn’t true? Who’s in on this deception, anyway? And what would motivate them to deceive me?

I’m not really looking for advice, just staring into the dark and wondering what it all means.

I think that the problem is some of the holds broke off the outdoor climbs and nobody replaced them. Get yourself a good drill and a few plastic holds, and bolt the holds at the crux of some sandbagged outdoor routes near you. If you do it right, you'll be able to make the difficulty match the official grades printed in guidebooks. All the local climbers will be so psyched that their crags have the right grades at last!

Chris Fedorczak · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

Disallusioned with this post

abandon moderation · · Tahoe · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 118
Jaren Watson wrote
And if that’s the case, namely, that what I’m being told is not true, then what else isn’t true? Who’s in on this deception, anyway? And what would motivate them to deceive me?

I know this is a troll, but a gym I used to climb at used to intentionally inflate the grades over a period of time. When they hosted a competition they would "reset" them and everything would be hard again.

The logic? People want to progress, and they'll keep coming back as long as they progress. If they're not actually progressing you can make them think they are by making the climbs easier over time.

Then suddenly everything gets hard again, but it only lasts a few weeks and they start progressing again...

So, it really might be a conspiracy.
Connor McCafferty · · Portland · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

I find that the grades in the gym I train at are harder than the outdoor routes of similar grades I climb. It seems like because the gym walls are usually shorter than the outdoor routes I'm doing, the gym routes are much more sustained with harder back-to-back moves. This may not be the norm. 

Tim Lutz · · Colo-Rado Springs · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5

gym routes are mostly comp-style now with little transference to the outdoors

I have never seen someone run across the the bottom of rock to campus between holds

at this point, doing crossfit would do more to increase outdoor skills than running on plastic bookends and blobs

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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