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Meltdown Repeated


Original Post
John Clark · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407

I heard Meltdown was repeated by Carlo Traversi on the Ondra thread and confirmed on 8a.nu. Does anyone have more details?

mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2

8a.nu says carlo traversi repeated it...

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,409
Dallin Carey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 157

From Carlo's Instagram: "Meltdown. What a ride. First tried this beautiful line in 2013 and got completely shut down. Couldn’t figure out how to stand on the absolutely miserable footholds. The next year I tried again and solved the crux, a desperate lie back section on gently overhanging granite while smearing on glass. I thought everything would come together quickly after that but I was wrong. It’s one thing to climb through a difficult section, it’s another to be relaxed enough while you’re doing it to not burn yourself out for the rest of the route. I top roped it clean at the end of 2015, got desperately close on lead, and then proceeded to go to war with the weather through 2016 and 2017. This season it all came together. A dry Fall and this week the colder temps are just sweeping into the Valley. Yesterday I was able to climb it on my 3rd try of the day after a couple weird slips after the crux on the first two tries. All gear was placed on lead, after the first piece was placed I climbed back down to the ground to re-chalk and re-compose. The climbing went smoothly including the placement of the final #4 @blackdiamond Stopper which is always a tricky one to get in. A massive thanks to @marymeck for all the days supporting me in the Valley through some of the coldest times. And my brother @gtraversi for standing in knee deep ice water in underwear in freezing temps to belay when the pool at the base of the route filled up. Last but not least a huge thanks to @bethrodden for the vision, tenacity, and incredible climbing ability that brought this route to life over 10 years ago. The First Ascent of this route is a benchmark in the history of climbing and is one of the most impressive achievements I can think of in the last few decades. Respect." 

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

5.14c trad crack.

Have at it boys/girls/mutants.

scott fuzz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 125

Cool and all, but....
When's he gonna put up his own 14c trad rt?? When-

Floyd Eggers · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 341

If he didn't tick it off on his MP Acct then how do we even know he's telling the truth? 

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 116

At least he didn't climb it with pre placed gear.....

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
scott fuzz wrote: Cool and all, but....
When's he gonna put up his own 14c trad rt?? When-

Maybe you can find one for him and give him a hint. They don't grow on trees.

Conversely, you could go to some limestone sport crag and manufacture one tomorrow...
Nate Doyle · · Sierra Foothills · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 37
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

Maybe you can find one for him and give him a hint. They don't grow on trees.

Conversely, you could go to some limestone sport crag and manufacture one tomorrow...

Don't let HB fool you, Scott, he's been holding out all the 14c trad cracks from me too.

scott fuzz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 125
Nate Doyle wrote:

Don't let HB fool you, Scott, he's been holding out all the 14c trad cracks from me too.

First I'll have to post up a remotely serious comment. Then I'll get right on tryn to scope something out in the mid 15''s with clean falls!

HB, Sounds like you've spent time at Bellefonte??
Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Just have spent enough time at Dolomite Limestone crags and know how much "cleaning" truly is required with the "artist's" touch of the developer giving wide latitude for the final grade.

Just the plain straight dope.

scott fuzz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 125
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: Just have spent enough time at Dolomite Limestone crags and know how much "cleaning" truly is required with the "artist's" touch of the developer giving wide latitude for the final grade.

Just the plain straight dope.

I see. We have a little storied Limestone Quarry here in Pennsylvania with a nice/ heated history with the manufactured cracks-

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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