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"That's one small step for man, one giant leap for mankind."


Original Post
amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

Finally, a man was able to repeat Beth Roden's Meltdown! 

From 8a.nu

Carlo Traversi has done the second ascent of Beth Rodden's Meltdown 8c+ in Yosemite which since 2008 have been seen as possibly the hardest trad route in the world. More info to come.

Carlo's background is bouldering where he during two years until 2013 did five 8C's. Then in 2015 he did two 9a's and on his Insta he then reported he was close doing Meltdown after three years of sporadic effort.
From somewhere else:
There’s a lot of debate in philosophical circles as to the inherent value of being number one. Being the first in certain circumstances—first foot print on the moon, first atop Everest, etc.—is generally considered a notable achievement, and one worthy of celebrating. On the other hand, being #2 isn’t always that bad, I mean who doesn’t appreciate a good poop every now and then?
amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

Carlo says on  Instagram

Meltdown. What a ride. First tried this beautiful line in 2013 and got completely shut down. Couldn’t figure out how to stand on the absolutely miserable footholds. The next year I tried again and solved the crux, a desperate lie back section on gently overhanging granite while smearing on glass. I thought everything would come together quickly after that but I was wrong. It’s one thing to climb through a difficult section, it’s another to be relaxed enough while you’re doing it to not burn yourself out for the rest of the route. I top roped it clean at the end of 2015, got desperately close on lead, and then proceeded to go to war with the weather through 2016 and 2017. This season it all came together. A dry Fall and this week the colder temps are just sweeping into the Valley. Yesterday I was able to climb it on my 3rd try of the day after a couple weird slips after the crux on the first two tries. All gear was placed on lead, after the first piece was placed I climbed back down to the ground to re-chalk and re-compose. The climbing went smoothly including the placement of the final #4 @blackdiamond Stopper which is always a tricky one to get in. A massive thanks to @marymeck for all the days supporting me in the Valley through some of the coldest times. And my brother @gtraversi for standing in knee deep ice water in underwear in freezing temps to belay when the pool at the base of the route filled up. Last but not least a huge thanks to @bethrodden for the vision, tenacity, and incredible climbing ability that brought this route to life over 10 years ago. The First Ascent of this route is a benchmark in the history of climbing and is one of the most impressive achievements I can think of in the last few decades. Respect.
Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 135

Why, specifically, is it great that a man was able to repeat this?

Eric · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 10

Because all events henceforth shall be filtered through the lens of race and/or gender.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Matt Himmelstein wrote: Why, specifically, is it great that a man was able to repeat this?

Just to make a point that men shouldn't feel inferior to women. We are way past the time when the tradition required men do all the work while women stayed at home and played dress-up all day. Now, it is our time to have fun and spend time as conquistadors of the useless. 

/sarcasm for those who do not find this obvious.
Briggs Lazalde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

We still haven't decided which the superior gender is.

kalockwood · · SLC, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 236

It doesn't matter if it was a man or a woman, it's significant news that this route saw a second ascent by anyone because it shut down many strong climbers previously.

Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35
Matt Himmelstein wrote: Why, specifically, is it great that a man was able to repeat this?

Not arguing the sexism and gender stereo type arguments are incorrect and certainly not to take away from Beth's history making accomplishment....However for this specific route it was speculated that the crack so thin that only a small female's fingers could get deep enough to send the route.  

Kris Fiore · · Burlington, VT · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 1,846

"All gear was placed on lead, after the first piece was placed I climbed back down to the ground to re-chalk and re-compose."

I don't think anyone would argue this isn't a redpoint but I appreciate that he was totally up front about the style. Good looks.

Danny Poceta · · Calgary · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 40

Finally, the finger size excuse can be put to rest.

Chris treggE · · Madison, Beersconsin · Joined May 2007 · Points: 9,592
Danny Poceta wrote: Finally, the finger size excuse can be put to rest.

Have you even seen Carlo's tiny fingers???  

Fehim Hasecic · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 130

Is this a first FFMA?

Danny Poceta · · Calgary · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 40
Chris treggE wrote:

Have you even seen Carlo's tiny fingers???  

are they as tiny as Beth's???

Petsfed · · Laramie, WY · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 945
Mike Slavens wrote:

Not arguing the sexism and gender stereo type arguments are incorrect and certainly not to take away from Beth's history making accomplishment....However for this specific route it was speculated that the crack so thin that only a small female's fingers could get deep enough to send the route.  

Which translates to "it can't be that objectively hard, it's just that us manly men are too massively manly to succeed on it".

Its in the same vein as downgrading a Lynn Hill 5.14 just because it was put up by a woman.
Mike Slavens · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 35
Petsfed wrote:

Which translates to "it can't be that objectively hard, it's just that us manly men are too massively manly to succeed on it".

Its in the same vein as downgrading a Lynn Hill 5.14 just because it was put up by a woman.

Didn't say I agree with it, just providing backstory on the comment in question.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

Here is what Tom Randall who sent "Cobra Crack" had to say about Meltdown, courtesy of ​Rock and Ice​​​

To help put the difficulty of Meltdown into further perspective, consider the conclusions of Tom Randall, one of the best crack climbers around. In a feature on the hardest cracks in the world, published in Rock and Ice issue 230 (November 2015), Randall wrote, “Visiting Yosemite in the autumn of 2014 to do some big walls, Pete Whittaker and I took a day to get to know Meltdown. While it’s extremely difficult to gauge a rating in a single visit, it’s not hard to know when something isn’t a soft tough. Almost every move on the route is desperate—there is no respite—and the footholds are appalling, so dire that in many parts of the route it’s extremely hard just to pull into static positions because the feet have to be placed semi-dynamically to stick. After a few hours of working the moves, both Pete and I walked away having done only 10 percent and scratching our heads over how the crux was even possible.
Petsfed · · Laramie, WY · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 945
Mike Slavens wrote:

Didn't say I agree with it, just providing backstory on the comment in question.

I took your first sentence at face value. If it seems otherwise, I am sorry for not making that more clear.

I just wanted to make sure that folks got the subtext that came with saying it was only possible for small-fingered *female* climbers, as opposed to saying that it was only possible for small-fingered climbers.
NWNINJA · · Nederland, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 80

badass Carlo! 5.15 Trad???

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

I think I heard Carlo say in an interview that no one's fingers are small enough to fit, that it's more like crimping a seam. So is finger size really a factor?

Tradgic Yogurt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 55

"That's one small step for man, one giant leap for chufferkind."

B K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

Fucking sexist white men need to get out of the way and let moar wamyn get second ascents of routes created by wamyn for wamyn.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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