Mountain Project Logo

Ultralight Ice Screws: BD vs. Petzl


Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,810
Colin O'Brien wrote: Right, Bill.  But the article called them "ice hooks," and said they are basically garbage for protection but become flying daggers aimed at your face. That was a big takeaway!

Tht's not the only test to establish that hooks are nonsense re. ice pro. In fact, I can't recall seeing ANY test or real world fall experience that indicates they are useful in (non-mossy) ice.

Bill Kirby · · San Francisco CA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Colin O'Brien wrote: Right, Bill.  But the article called them "ice hooks," and said they are basically garbage for protection but become flying daggers aimed at your face. That was a big takeaway!

Meh, I felt warm and fuzzy placing one more than one time I was mixed climbing above my ability. I know a guy who beat one in and hung on a Spectre. Guess YMMV 

akafaultline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 225

I tried bd ultra lite screws pretty good now and having used them mostly in cold brittle ice- I’m happy.  I took some videos of placing them into glacial ice a while ago that is north facing, hasn’t seen the light of day in months and down to -10 f or colder on a regular basis and the screws placed fine.  If there is a way to post videos on here-let me know cause it won’t let me do it now (to provide illustration of how the screw places into glacial ice at around 5 degrees).   

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 210
akafaultline wrote: I tried bd ultra lite screws pretty good now and having used them mostly in cold brittle ice- I’m happy.  I took some videos of placing them into glacial ice a while ago that is north facing, hasn’t seen the light of day in months and down to -10 f or colder on a regular basis and the screws placed fine.  If there is a way to post videos on here-let me know cause it won’t let me do it now (to provide illustration of how the screw places into glacial ice at around 5 degrees).   

Upload it to YouTube as unlisted then give us a link. 

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

I lead a few pitches with the new BD screws.  Seemed to clog less with ice than the petzl.  Not sure if its just the ice conditions that day or if it has something to do with the design.  

Bill Kirby · · San Francisco CA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
wisam wrote: I lead a few pitches with the new BD screws.  Seemed to clog less with ice than the petzl.  Not sure if its just the ice conditions that day or if it has something to do with the design.  

 I led a few too and noticed them sticking like the Petzls do. They seem to start well. I too noticed they don’t clog but I’m in the Adirondacks. It’s a brittle ice dinner plate death match up here right now

Steven Kovalenko · · Calgary · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25

So... anyone experience the steel tip disconnecting from the green tube body yet? Happened just a couple of times up here in Canada. Would not call it a common issue yet, but keep an eye out.

I am sticking with my full rack of cold hard reliable steel. I view all these aluminum screws like BD Ultralights or sub 9mm skinny ropes. If you want to pay, and you play hard, they will work good for a couple years!! Then you get to pay for the priviledge again. 

Briggs Lazalde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
Steven Kovalenko wrote: So... anyone experience the steel tip disconnecting from the green tube body yet? Happened just a couple of times up here in Canada. Would not call it a common issue yet, but keep an eye out.

I am sticking with my full rack of cold hard reliable steel. I view all these aluminum screws like BD Ultralights or sub 9mm skinny ropes. If you want to pay, and you play hard, they will work good for a couple years!! Then you get to pay for the priviledge again. 

Jokes on you! Ill be dead in a couple years! BAM!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Ultralight Ice Screws: BD vs. Petzl"

Log In to Reply