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Thoughts on this bolt?


Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 138

@OP not sure what your point is, old bolts are old and no one can tell you what degree of corrosion is inside. Use at your own risk and YMMV.

First bolt is a 3/8 carbon steel hardware store quality mystery. SMC SS hangers like that are great, but haven't been seen in 25-30 years to give you some idea how old the bolt.

The Second looks like a welded Cold Shut with a split shank button head. The head looks good but no one knows whats going on inside. Again, in the 30 year range because people simply don't use button heads anymore.

The reason this is pointless is that you are either gonna clip them or not if you have an alternative or back off regardless of internet prognostications. Both could hold a surprising amount or fail under body weight.

If you are civic minded you will replace them with quality SS hardware.

If not, its pointless internet wankage. :)

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 138
Ryan U. wrote: Looks like an "SMC Death Hanger" I just read about in a climbing book

No, those were Chro-moly and subject to cracking. That one is SS.

Nolan Huther · · Burlington, VT · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 552
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: @OP not sure what your point is
Trying to learn about bolts, but the snark is appreciated along with your knowledge


If you are civic minded you will replace them with quality SS hardware.

If not, its pointless internet wankage. :)
I'm interested in helping maintain fixed equipment at this crag since there isn't anyone else who will due to the location. The logistics of it I'll leave to next season at least, though. I was just more curious about the technical details, I've gone through lots of the ASCA info but was just looking for some identification help


Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 138

No worries.

The issue fundamentally is that you have to decide for yourself if you are comfortable clipping any fixed pro, and if not, ideally are motivated to replace it.

But we all have had to clip tons of mank over the years having nothing better at hand. Some bolts have failed that have looked perfectly fine on the outside. Others prove difficult to remove despite looking sketch af from the outside.

So many cry about some bad bolts but aren't willing to do anything to anything about it. The ideal is that one takes ownership for making sure the next guy has something better. Good on ya' for thinking about the future needs of this crag.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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