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Chatt crags / boulders for out of towers w/mixed abilities?


Original Post
Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Hi All,

I'll be spending the weekend in chattanooga in a couple of weeks, 11/10 - 11/11. If weather is good (got rained out HARD last time), we'll be trying to get out on rock. My preference would be to boulder, but the group I'll be with may not want to do that both days we have to climb. So here is my question: If you were with a group that included a couple n00bs (v0-v1, 5.7-5.8), a couple of low-intermediates (lead on sport to 10- but not trad), and a competent experienced climber or 2 (not super strong, looking to boulder v4-v5, trad climb 5.10-5.11, sport 5.12-). which areas are best for bouldering near Chatt? Which areas will serve our needs if we decide to climb routes?

I've used the search function and Stone Fort looks more stacked in the lower grades than Rock Town. Been to rock town before and it was sick! But it's been about 10 years, and I remember it being a bit spread out, and the beta on MP for approachig/finding boulders is generally poor. Also v1 can mean a lot of different things and be more beginner-accessible in some areas than others. Stone fort also looks like a weird vibe cuz it is on a golf course...

Wandering around in the woods is no fun, which area is more straightforward to navigate, rock town vs stone fort?

Which has more clustered boulders with a range of difficulties suitable for a group like the one I described?

Also, what is a good temperature range for enjoyable climbing at Sunset Park? Area page says it's cold in the shade. Is locating routes pretty straightforward at Sunset?

Went to T-wall last year and had fun, will it still be too hot in early November?

Is Leda worth our time? Or is it a overrun chosspile gumbyfest? Maybe this will be the best grade range for what we want, but seems a bit lacking in the 5.11-5.12 range

Really psyched for the trip, thanks in advance for your recommendations. If anyone from the area wants to join us, feel free!

Dan Knisell · · Townsend, MA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 3,055

Stone fort is more navigable and the boulders are super concentrated. You’ll find it more enjoyable IMO. I can’t help you with any of the ropes routes you’re looking for though. 

Chuck Parks · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 2,150

I'd do one day of bouldering and one day of roped climbing. Trying to do both in one day is more trouble than it's worth even if you have an area with both activities -- which you really don't around Chattanooga.

So one day at Stone Fort.

Your assumption is correct that Leda isn't really the best of anything. But it does have a broad range of lines right next to each other. There's enough decent stuff to keep everyone busy for a day, and you won't get too spread out there. There's trad from 5.7 - 5.10, and sport from 5.6 - 5.12.

Foster Falls would be great for everyone but the n00bs -- there's only one 5.7 and the 5.8s are few and far between. T-Wall (if it's cold) or Sunset (if it's hot) would be great for everyone, except there's no sport for the intermediate folks to lead at either place.

So I'd recommend the other day at Leda, unless the intermediates don't want to lead. In that case I'd go to T-Wall, or possibly Sunset if it's unseasonably hot that weekend.

Lee Harris · · Cleveland, TN · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 30

For only a two day trip, a combination of LRC and Leda would be hard to beat. They are within five minutes of each other so logistically you waste little time finding the crags. There are enough V0-V5 problems to keep you busy for months at LRC, and the routes at Leda are great, if a little short and few in number.

Charlie Daniel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

I agree with bouldering at Stone Fort but I’d look hard at Deep Creek and Big Soddy Gorge for some taller sport routes more in the range your looking for. That place is killer. The trailhead is literally 10 minutes from Stone Fort as well. Have a rad time man. 

luke magnin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0
  • If the newer people want to just top rope, you cam go to T wall. 
  • The weather should be great.
Alexander Stathis · · Athens, GA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 351

Stonefort for sure. Firecrack Flake, Brian's Brain, and the Rib are all great.

Foster's is probably a good bet too. There are tons of 5.9's and a good amount of 5.8's as well as lots and lots and lots of 5.10-11 climbing. That's where I'd take beginners.

I'm not sure how far it is, but Sandrock in AL could be a good idea if you're willing to drive an hour or so. 

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Thanks for all the responses! I'm really psyched to check it out. Sounds like stone fort and leda will be the best time for our group.

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Bumping cuz the trip is coming up!

Weather's looking good for this weekend, prime for bouldering. But looks like it's raining a bit today and tomorrow. Stone Fort / Rock town will likely dry pretty quick after rain eh?

Second question: What is the aspect at Leda? high of 54 feels a lot different in the sun / shade...

Thanks for the responses all, and I'm SIKED!!!

Charlie Daniel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

If the roads are dry the rock will be as well. Getting a tad chilly and supposed to rain tomorrow but Sat, Sun and Monday look diesel. Both upper and lower Leda are south facing and get sun all day. 

Dan Knisell · · Townsend, MA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 3,055

I found the sandstone would sweat after the rain and it took a while to dry. The golf course at stonefort might allow more breeze to dry things up whereas rock town is more wooded and might stay wet longer.  That's just a wild guess so take it for what it's worth. 

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Thanks guys!

Chuck Parks · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 2,150

Leda faces south-southwest. Lower Leda faces southwest, and seems to get a bit more shade from the trees. Both should be good by late morning, but a bit chilly at the crack of dawn.

Tennessee Wall faces south-southeast, and gets good sun from first light and on. It'll definitely be warmer there.

Maybe boulder on Saturday and see how it goes. If everyone is ok with the temperatures then hit Leda Sunday. Or if you decide you'd rather thaw out, head to the T-Wall.

Adam Jordan · · Chickamauga · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5

Rocktown will be closed for hunting this weekend, so that should make the decision easy for you.

Chet Butterworth · · Chattanooga · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 460

Eric,

I just checked my wallet and sure enough, found your business card. My buddy and I climbed with you and your partner a few years back in Wild Iris/Ten Sleep.You may remember us complaining about the lack of jugs. Anyway, bummed I'm seeing this thread only now and I hope you enjoyed your visit down South!

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Chet good to hear from you. I remember you guys for sure, you were from the obed, right? Stone fort treated us well, we wound up bouldering there both days. Sick stone and plenty of jugs haha. I'll be back to the area later this winter or spring.

Jarrod Patrone · · Ithaca, NY · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0

Eric,

Did it rain while you were at Stonefort or before you got there? If so, what was your experience like waiting for the rock to dry?

skinny legs · · Virginia · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 28
Jarrod Patrone wrote: Eric,

Did it rain while you were at Stonefort or before you got there? If so, what was your experience like waiting for the rock to dry?

LRC is generally fine the day after rain just don't rush to get there in the morning. By noon most faces are dry.

Jarrod Patrone · · Ithaca, NY · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0
skinny legs wrote:

LRC is generally fine the day after rain just don't rush to get there in the morning. By noon most faces are dry.

Sweet, thanks man.

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

We got lucky with weather this time around. Climbing was awesome there, it rained as we were about to leave

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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