Mountain Project Logo

Fixe Hely Bolt


Original Post
Taylor Spiegelberg · · Lander & Sheridan, WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,501

Does anyone have any field experience with the Fixe Hely yet? I'm interested to see how a 3/8" glue-in is working for folks. I know there's already been some debate on Fixe's PLX stainless, but I'm more interested in the design aspects.

Andrew Rational · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 10

Paging Jim Titt...

Timothy Fisher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Looks expensive

Taylor Spiegelberg · · Lander & Sheridan, WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,501
Timothy Fisher wrote: Looks expensive

$9.50 retail

J W · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,611
Taylor Spiegelberg wrote:

$9.50 retail

$3.25 more than a wave bolt, and at least $4 more than Jim’s bolts. Yikes- and given how good those bolts are, I’m not sure anyone would pay that kind of premium for them. I wonder if Fixe is even bringing them into the states...

Taylor Spiegelberg · · Lander & Sheridan, WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,501
John Wilder wrote:

$3.25 more than a wave bolt, and at least $4 more than Jim’s bolts. Yikes- and given how good those bolts are, I’m not sure anyone would pay that kind of premium for them. I wonder if Fixe is even bringing them into the states...

I agree, the only way this would be an affordable option would be with a discount. On Fixe's US website, it looks like you can order them now.

Taylor Spiegelberg · · Lander & Sheridan, WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,501

Fixe has some interesting videos on their Youtube page. One video shows them installing the bolt in the field in the same orientation as all of their marketing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xtXqbRcCss

The other shows them installing it upside down in this video....:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bm4nwFxNcmc 

J W · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,611
Taylor Spiegelberg wrote: Fixe has some interesting videos on their Youtube page. One video shows them installing the bolt in the field in the same orientation as all of their marketing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xtXqbRcCss

The other shows them installing it upside down in this video....:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bm4nwFxNcmc 

Looks like one way you can flush install, or flip it upside down and you can do the chamfer installation like a lot of people are used to.

Not sure what the appeal is of having to do extra work so you can install the bolt in a different direction...
Taylor Spiegelberg · · Lander & Sheridan, WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,501

I find it interesting that they would be so lackadaisical in their marketing. If the bolt works both ways, it seems like that would be a good piece to add to the technical documents and diagrams.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Andrew Rational wrote: Paging Jim Titt...

Me? If you want my private opinion youll have to buy me a few beers but since I´ve never even seen one it wouldn´t be very interesting!

One doesn´t rubbish competitors, products and companies stand or fall on their own merits.
Andrew Rational · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 10
Jim Titt wrote:

Me? If you want my private opinion youll have to buy me a few beers but since I´ve never even seen one it wouldn´t be very interesting!

One doesn´t rubbish competitors, products and companies stand or fall on their own merits.

If we are ever in the same neck of the woods, I’d be happy to buy you a few beers. Your posts here, and your website, are quite educational.


Perhaps I misremembered you commenting on some other bolt designs in the past.
J W · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,611
Taylor Spiegelberg wrote: I find it interesting that they would be so lackadaisical in their marketing. If the bolt works both ways, it seems like that would be a good piece to add to the technical documents and diagrams.

I guess. But why would you want to do more work to install a bolt? And pay a huge premium for it? Especially when it’s smaller than other bolts that are either as strong or way stronger?

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 523
Jim Titt wrote:

Me? If you want my private opinion youll have to buy me a few beers but since I´ve never even seen one it wouldn´t be very interesting!

One doesn´t rubbish competitors, products and companies stand or fall on their own merits.

Unless competitors are selling titanium equipment, right?

;)
Taylor Spiegelberg · · Lander & Sheridan, WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,501
John Wilder wrote:

I guess. But why would you want to do more work to install a bolt? And pay a huge premium for it? Especially when it’s smaller than other bolts that are either as strong or way stronger?

I definitely agree with your qualms about the Hely bolt. I don't understand why Fixe would produce a product like this when it's more expensive than perfectly suitable products already on the market.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107
John Wilder wrote:

I guess. But why would you want to do more work to install a bolt? And pay a huge premium for it? Especially when it’s smaller than other bolts that are either as strong or way stronger?

pretty much sums it up in a nutshell....

m Mobes · · MDI, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 905
Taylor Spiegelberg wrote:

I definitely agree with your qualms about the Hely bolt. I don't understand why Fixe would produce a product like this when it's more expensive than perfectly suitable products already on the market.

You have never noticed people buying 100 dollar pants, 500 dollar jackets or full price hardware before? 

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

well, expensive pants may make you look less fat.  however, a skinnier bolt ain't even going to do that.

m Mobes · · MDI, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 905
slim wrote: well, expensive pants may make you look less fat.  however, a skinnier bolt ain't even going to do that.

Do you even climb with extra double ultra light gear bro?

Alexander Stathis · · Athens, GA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 411
Taylor Spiegelberg wrote:

I definitely agree with your qualms about the Hely bolt. I don't understand why Fixe would produce a product like this when it's more expensive than perfectly suitable products already on the market.

It looks to me that they set out to design a glue in which no longer traps bubbles in the epoxy when placed. In exchange, they created new problems (price, difficulty of placement, etc). I'm not really sure how prevalent the bubbles issue is -- it seems to be nonexistant -- but that's what it appears they were looking to solve. Maybe they have a particular market in mind, although I can't fathom what that might be. 

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,415
Taylor Spiegelberg wrote: I find it interesting that they would be so lackadaisical in their marketing. If the bolt works both ways, it seems like that would be a good piece to add to the technical documents and diagrams.

The diagram you posted specifically shows that it will hold 28 kN in either orientation, how much more specific do they need to be?

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
eli poss wrote:

Unless competitors are selling titanium equipment, right?

;)

You are confusing rebuttals of wildly innacurate claims by disciples of the "everything should be bolted with titanium" religion with commenting on specific manufacturers bolts with the aim of reducing their market share. Martin Robert´s bolts are the best titanium resin bolt available on the market

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
Post a Reply to "Fixe Hely Bolt"

Log In to Reply