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Best 5.10 Sport Crags


Original Post
Justin Bogan · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Hey fellow climbers,  I’m meeting a buddy in Reno and making my way to Palm Springs over 10 days.  Coming from Colorado but don’t want to fly with my rack so looking for advice on best sport crags (multi-pitch adventure routes even better.)  Lead up to 5.11b partner would prefer 5.10s and I only want to pack a thin 60m and 15 draws.

Possible destinations:

Big Chief, Trukee
Owens River Gorge, Dihedrals, Bishop
Sequoia and Kings Canyon??? Help
J Tree?

Thanks for reading and any contributions. If you want to show us your crag happy to climb with other safe climbers. Come to the the front range in CO and I’ll do the same. 

Ellis L · · Chico, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 91

Better than Big Chief in Truckee would be "The Emeralds" (further West down i80) Many classic 10's and 11's on good granite. 

Justin Bogan · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Much appreciated Ellis.  Will check it out! 

Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

Owens River Gorge. Crystal Crag near Mammoth. Lots of other good sport stuff near Mammoth, too. Alabama Hills is a really unique and beautiful setting. Lots of moderate sport routes there. 

Justin Bogan · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

¡Gracias Señor Arroz!

Tapawingo Markey · · Reno? · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

Better is relative, if you have the time I’d check both Big Chief and The Emeralds out. Different rock, different styles, different setting.

Clark Canyon in Mammoth is a fun, steep, volcanic crag.

ORG could keep you busy for a few days. If you want a unique multipitch sport endeavor check out Towering Inferno at ORG.

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 172
Justin Bogan wrote:Lead up to 5.11b partner would prefer 5.10s and I only want to pack a thin 60m and 15 draws.

Possible destinations:

Big Chief, Trukee
Owens River Gorge, Dihedrals, Bishop
Sequoia and Kings Canyon??? Help
J Tree?

Thanks for reading and any contributions. If you want to show us your crag happy to climb with other safe climbers. Come to the the front range in CO and I’ll do the same. 

Glad we established a few things here. 


1. You are a better climber than your partner. We are glad to hear you climb 11s and your partner doesn't. No one cares.
2. There is no such thing as safe climbing. Didn't someone tell you climbing is dangerous?

All joking aside I suicide rocks has spectacular granite and is well bolted. I'd head there if ya wanna clip bolts.

Cheers,
DMT
Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 627

Rock creek gong show wall/dike wall/.ORG/Alabama hills is CRAP/ Pine Creek! 

TAGG C · · Annapolis, MD · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 294

Check out Alabama Hills 

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 627

Alabama Hills is grainy crumble rock and anything that’s higher than 511 is chiseled and chipped!  Only thing it has going for it is the surrounding view  The real climbing is up in the Whitney portal like bony fingers and other classic routes!

Señor Arroz · · LA, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
master gumby wrote:
All joking aside I suicide rocks has spectacular granite and is well bolted. I'd head there if ya wanna clip bolts.

Cheers,
DMT

If DMT is talking about Suicide Rock near Idyllwild, I don't think there's a single route there I'd call sport bolted. Lots of trad bolted slabs with 40+ foot runouts, though. And spectacular granite, for sure. 

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 627

 Suicide rock has no bolted sport route it’s run out traditional style bolted and that’s what it is has great trad routes as well!

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 622

I'll reiterate what a couple of people have said.
Big Chief is sure fun, but it's up pretty high.  Most of the good routes get morning sun.  It's not too far off 395, so it could be worth a day.  Lots of 10s and 11s.
As you drive down 395, you could break up the drive with an afternoon at Transpire Wall (5 minute approach) and hit the Whoa Nellie Deli for food (if it still open in October?).  
In the Mammoth area, Bear Crag in the Reds Meadow area is south facing and if the road is still open to get down there, you can probably drive down this late in the season (no shuttle).  Really fun steep basalt.
Dike Wall in Mammoth is definitely worth a day.
Clark Canyon is fun but it's a ways in on a dirt road, about 5 miles.  
Gong Show Crag in Rock Creek has some beautiful bolted granite routes.  Afternoon shade and it's up high.
My favorite mini-crag in  between Mammoth and Bishop is Looking Wall.  Real easy to drive to, 2 minute approach.  Great featured granite 10s and 11s.
The Gorge has a couple of weeks worth of 10s and 11s.  
Lots of stuff in Pine Creek and the new guide is just coming out.
I like Alabama Hills when its too cold to go anywhere else but it's not roadtrip worthy, IMO.

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 172
Jeffrey Constine wrote:  Suicide rock has no bolted sport route it’s run out traditional style bolted and that’s what it is has great trad routes as well!

You obviously havent climbed at suicide and ernt a locel.


I'll reiterate suicide as the place to be. There are bolts where ya need them. Scope it out.
Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 627
master gumby wrote:

You obviously havent climbed at suicide and ernt a locel.


I'll reiterate suicide as the place to be. There are bolts where ya need them. Scope it out.

Climbing there long before you were born lol

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 172
Jeffrey Constine wrote:

Climbing there long before you were born lol

Doubt it 

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 115
master gumby wrote:

Doubt it 

Open mouth. Insert foot. 

Justin Bogan · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks everyone.  I appreciate the suggestions. 

Dave Sharp · · Big bear California · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 110

Fairview mtn in apple valley,Holcomb in big bear

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
master gumby wrote:

You obviously havent climbed at suicide and ernt a locel.


I'll reiterate suicide as the place to be. There are bolts where ya need them. Scope it out.

Ok, I agree with you that Suicide is awesome.  Love the place.  However, you're doing a big disservice to the OP who specifically asked for "sport crags".  I'd agree that there are a select few newer routes that are more tightly bolted than usual for that area, the majority will have "bolts where ya need them", but that assumes that you've got your trad chops honed and are expecting a trad bolted experience.  If you're trying to encourage the OP to try something different, be clear about it; but don't sandbag the poor guy and tell him that it's something it's not.  

David Burridge · · Simi Valley · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 25

If you want to get in a lot of climbing I also suggest ORG. You will be able to find multiple walls where you can plop your stuff down and you can lead your 11's and your partner can lead his 10's without having to move to a different area.

Only downside might be that it could start to get cold this time of year and the days can seem short because you are down in a gorge so not a lot of sun.

Would not go to J-Tree without gear myself. Maybe you could convince your partner it's time to buy a rack.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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