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Crack climbers winter fitness plan

Original Post
Ryan Pfleger · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 25

Give me your best ideas for a crack climber's winter fitness plan with limited equipment. I've got a hangboard and some dumbbells.

And GO...

Robin Westman · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined May 2018 · Points: 56

Build a crack system. Not that expensive

john bicknell · · Longmont · Joined May 2006 · Points: 0

3 thoughts.
1. Crack climbing is more general fitness/endurance than pure power. So incorporate the hang board and dumbbells into any general fitness training that you're doing and you'll be fine.
2. Living in Estes Park for years, I'd assume the N Tahoe climate to be similar, which means lots of sunny 40+ degree days even mid-winter. So go climbing, or at least find a good bouldering circuit that works you on the type of climbs you like.
3. It's roughly an 11 hr drive from N Tahoe to Indian Creek, plan at least one winter road trip...

Unk Gh · · The world · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Go to Yosemite and crack climb every weekend. There is plenty you can do all winter long, its not a long drive from Tahoe

Zachary Winters · · Winthrop, WA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 430

Following in case there are any good pointers added here. I've messed around with crack training tools, but find them boring and painful. I think crack cruxes can take many forms, and the training probably ought to vary accordingly​. ARCing is valuable for enduro climbs and laybacks. Bouldering and hangboarding is good for isolated face or finger crack cruxes. Sometimes the locks are good, but you're almost campusing with no feet - lockoff strength would matter a lot there. I've had tired legs and calves hold me back on a crux pitch on a long alpine day. Anyways, I guess I seems pretty route specific... cracks are all so different!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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