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What’s your favorite chalk?

Aaron Nash · · North Bend, WA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 212

Just buy whatever is cheapest. Blocks, bags, whatever. It's chalk ffs.

Mark Paulson wrote: Metolius Super Chalk when it's hot, block chalk when it's not.  You gotta hand it to them- Friction Labs (and now 8aPlus) sure saw a market opportunity to take money from new climbers susceptible to flashy packaging and bogus "science".  The whole idea of "premium chalk" is laughable.

Agreed. Is there any actual test data out there that shows that this "unicorn dust" or whatever actually yields more friction? I'm curious

Adam Ronchetti · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2011 · Points: 25

Bison designs like 80% of the time. Friction labs the remainder of the time. I've found that on humid days FL works better. 

Andrew Leaf · · Portland, OR · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

I go with the free chalk that gets automatically applied whenever I am outside, aka dirt. Seriously, I chalk up the gym but outside I found my hands are so dry from being dirty that I never dipped the chalk bag so I just stopped carrying it.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148
Paul Hutton wrote: Chalk is aid

Absolutely goddamned right.

And it is awesome too. :P
B L · · New York, NY · Joined May 2015 · Points: 54

Unicorn Dust!

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,425
Mark Paulson wrote: Metolius Super Chalk when it's hot, block chalk when it's not.  You gotta hand it to them- Friction Labs (and now 8aPlus) sure saw a market opportunity to take money from new climbers susceptible to flashy packaging and bogus "science".  The whole idea of "premium chalk" is laughable.

While I agree that the "science" may be bogus, in actual usage, FL chalk absolutly stays on the hands for a very noticeably longer time and requires chalking up much less than any of the non premium chalks.  I haven't tried chalk cartel, 8aPlus or other premium brands to compare, but I was very sceptical until I actually tried FL and there is no denying that it lasts much longer, now I'm not saying that it's price is justified, but it certainly is a better chalk.

B L · · New York, NY · Joined May 2015 · Points: 54
Aaron Nash wrote: Just buy whatever is cheapest. Blocks, bags, whatever. It's chalk ffs.

Agreed. Is there any actual test data out there that shows that this "unicorn dust" or whatever actually yields more friction? I'm curious

idk the diff in ingredients if any (haven't looked - don't care).. it's just so fine it really coats your hands.. you notice the diff immediately dipping into it - compared to cheaper chalks. So visibly obvious. idk if the other chalk would be the same if you mashed it around enough to grind all the chunks out.. but is it really worth the time and effort even if it was? spolier: not to me

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

I bought a case(24 lbs) of the Frank Endo stuff years ago and shrunk wrap most of it. I usually just take a brick and pulverizes it and put it into an old Nalgene water bottle.

Tee Kay · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 110
Ken Noyce wrote:

While I agree that the "science" may be bogus, in actual usage, FL chalk absolutly stays on the hands for a very noticeably longer time and requires chalking up much less than any of the non premium chalks.  I haven't tried chalk cartel, 8aPlus or other premium brands to compare, but I was very sceptical until I actually tried FL and there is no denying that it lasts much longer, now I'm not saying that it's price is justified, but it certainly is a better chalk.

i had some chalk i thought was FL (after being a user of FL for a while) i kept wondering why y chalk ball kept making ym hands soupy, come to find out a friend had replace my loose chalk with Bison (which i thought would be far more premium thank white gold) so by my own accidental blind study, FL is still superior. I have INCREDIBLY SWEATY hands and refuse to use anhydrate or whatever that is, except occasional in a rhino skin product.

FL is legitimately a better chalk. and while I agree it is the climber, it is the climber. my hands are some of the wettest i know of. :(
Snah Ntrm · · Seattle · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

I prefer really fine chalk that is cheap. Like Bison, or Trango Gunpowder.

Austin P · · Redding, CA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

I’ve found that the white kind works pretty good 

hifno · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 25

I use leftover cocaine.

DesertRat · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 196

I'll put another vote in for Zen Lizard. I love that stuff.

Sam Cieply · · Venice, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 30

Metolius chalk is nice and fine and feels as good as Unicorn Dust to me. I usually fill my bucket with whatever I can scavenge from the many chalk bags in my gym's lost and found, creating a fine cuvée.

Sam D · · Southern California · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 47

The difference between Metolious and Friction Labs is like night and day for me.  My hands are on the damper side.  With FL I don't have to chalk up nearly as much and that often makes a huge difference when cruxin' nawmean.

Sam Cieply · · Venice, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 30
Sam Deshler wrote: The difference between Metolious and Friction Labs is like night and day for me.  My hands are on the damper side.  With FL I don't have to chalk up nearly as much and that often makes a huge difference when cruxin' nawmean.

Huh, well you do boulder a lot harder than me so I’ll take your word for it. I’m pretty sweaty at all times, but maybe the difference is more noticeable when your cruxin on a gnarly v8.

Sam D · · Southern California · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 47
Sam Cieply wrote:

Huh, well you do boulder a lot harder than me so I’ll take your word for it. I’m pretty sweaty at all times, but maybe the difference is more noticeable when your cruxin on a gnarly v8.

Doesn't matter the grade brother, cruxin' is cruxin'!

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 120

I've tried all of these, and like them in descending order from: FL/Chalk Cartel/Flashed > Camp/BD/Metolius Blocks > Evolv/Endo > Chalkness Monster/Bison >>>>>: Metolius Super Chalk (drying agent splits the shit out of my skin). I only buy BD chalk but am psyched to get a sample from FL or Chalk Cartel  

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,425
Sam Deshler wrote: The difference between Metolious and Friction Labs is like night and day for me.  My hands are on the damper side.  With FL I don't have to chalk up nearly as much and that often makes a huge difference when cruxin' nawmean.

Yep, Metolius used to be my go to chalk, it can't even come close to comparing to Friction Labs.

Stephen C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

My favorite combo is Rhino Performance spray plus Black Diamond White Gold. I've used Friction Labs a lot in the past and have done comparisons with other chalks and the only difference I ever noticed is FL might stick to my skin slightly better. I didn't notice any difference in performance when climbing routes and boulders.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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