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HP40 or LRC for a Road-tripping novice?

Original Post
Zach Allin · · VA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 35

Is it worth climbing at HP40 if I only boulder V3 outside? My gf and I will be driving back to Virginia from Mississippi this weekend and I want to stop somewhere and climb/sleep. Mostly a trad/sport climber but we won't have much time and bouldering is pretty efficient. Also looking at Stone Fort because it has awesome cracks but camping sucks in Chatt, and we can't do Rocktown because we need to rent pads.

John Wood · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 60

Yes, but be advised that you may find that the V3s there are really really stout, but very fun. If you are going there on Saturday, I may be there as well. Camping does suck in Chatt, but I've found that a reliable free campsite that's nice for the weekend is at Prentice Cooper state park on Suck Creek mountain. Sure, a little far from Stone Fort/LRC but it's free and has an outhouse.

HP40 has a plethora of fun V0-V3 climbs. I really enjoyed Double Groove, Bumboy, and WASP in that range.

Edit: I'll be at LRC actually, shoot me a PM if you find yourself there for the weekend.

Cheers

Zach Allin · · VA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 35

Thanks John! Do you think many people at HP40 will be bouldering at night? We would be rolling in around late afternoon 

John Wood · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 60

No problem, Zach! HP40 is officially closed at sundown, so I would say a few people will still hang around then. It may not be crowded considering it'll be fairly warm this weekend. I would say, just hop on whatever you see there. there are so many moderates that are super fun it's not even funny. I also recommend The Beach for a good challenge. It's a nice V4 in the front area on the other side of the boulder that PopEye V5 is on!

If they ask you to leave (they don't always. You can camp there btw and just go out later), then either set up camp or leave. They'll get really upset if they see you still climbing when they've asked, speaking from experience. Typically though they don't bother you at night if you're not being loud and obnoxious. Not sure on the alcohol/pet beta, but I know that they don't allow glass.

Brandon.Phillips · · Portola, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 55

Camping is easier at HP40 because you can camp there. Every time I have ever camped there, there have been people bouldering at night. With that said, I have always enjoyed the style of climbing at Stonefort more than HP40. There is free camping in Prentice Cooper, but its a bit of a drive.  There is a county park in Hixson - Chester Frost, which is the closest. It costs something in the $20 range to camp, and I believe you have to be there by 8:00pm?  We were 10 minutes late one time and they wouldn't let us in. 

Alexander Stathis · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 656

When I stay in Chattanooga I sleep in my car usually parked in the Soddy-Daisy Walmart parking lot or at the Chattnooga Whole Foods. I've never been bothered at either place. 

John Wood · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 60

Brandon, yes, camping there is easier but it's not free. I was just throwing out some ideas about general camping at the Chatt Area... and I love Prentice Cooper. Chester Frost kinda sucks to camp at and they don't let you have fun... yes the sign-in time is at 8 and usually runs your 20 per car(?).

Sleeping in your car at a walmart parking lot is what some friends of mine have done, though one of them were threatened to be towed when cooking eggs in the parking lot, that they bought there, no less.

My vote: go to HP40, camp, and have a great time.

If you continue to go to Chatt and want to boulder, I vote camp at PCSP/sleep in the car at wholefoods.

Have a great weekend!

Western Gold · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

I’m late to this thread so you may have already picked a spot... either have great bouldering. HP40 gets my top vote though. The style of climbing is different than what most are used to, and takes a little time to adjust ( it did for me at least). It will likely feel sandbagged, but it’s not. It’s just different. I still get shut down hard if i haven’t been out there in awhile. Let me know if you want a list of fun v1-v3 problems to check out.

Imploding Biceps · · Dirty South · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 1,938

I would recommend Hp40. You will have a bathroom and a shower if youd like.
Ive climbed at night everytime Ive been there. There are plenty of fun climbs between V0-V3 (some 3s feel more like 4s)  with a classic HP40 top out.
There is also Rocktown that is inbetween HP40 and LRC. 
some climbs i can recommend at Hp40
Silky,Deck Crack, Merlin, Wasp,Eightball, Copa Cabana, Ring My Bell , Earth Wind and Fire, Groove Rider, Panty Shields, Turtle Head Climbs, Bumboy

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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