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Heart Ledges Fixed Lines on El Cap

Original Post
Scott McAmis · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 76

A quick update on the status of the fixed lines to Heart Ledges. The lines are up, but some of the lines are getting worn. For some sections there are two ropes side by side and you can’t tell until you get to the top which the good rope is. I rappelled the route on Monday and here are my notes on which lines are good going from the ground up:

Bottom line: Blue rope is in good shape

2nd lines: Pink rope is good. White/Black is bad.

3rd lines: Black fixed line is tied into a white/black rope which is the good line. White/red rope is bad.
4th lines: white/blue is the better rope. White/tan has a knot and some wear.
5th lines: both lines are good. White/red line is newer and in better shape but has a single knot to pass.  Blue/green is older and more worn, but has no exposed core.
Top lines to Heart: black rope is fine
Heart Ledges to Mammoth Terrace: black fixed line is fine.
We will be going up tomorrow and I may try to take down a couple of the lines that are really bad.
Hope this info helps anyone that’s planning on jugging and hauling to Heart. Climb safe!

Scott McAmis · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 76

We climbed our route but didn’t get a chance to cut down the bad ropes. We did tie a few knots to isolate some exposed core in a few sections. There was one rope that was free hanging and not attached to the bottom anchors. It had a few stopper knots to keep people from rappelling off the end. If anyone has a chance to take that rope down go ahead and do it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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