Smith rock!! Oct. 12-15 Say howdy, if you're there!

I'm hoping to get over there the second weekend in October, for my first time. Some questions?

How cold is it early to mid October normally? I realize anything is possible. I'm in Boise, same altitude, so I'm guessing it's about like here, cold nights (close to or below freezing) and glorious days?

Camping. The website says no sleeping in cars. Is that enforced all year? Tent is a lot colder than the Honda.

A lot of the trails look to have steep to really steep hikes. Can you get around the steep approaches, or do my knees just have to suck it up?

Thanks, all, I'm pretty excited about this one!

Best, Helen

Hi Helen,
I have read your posts on climbers over 50 (and I have posted there a couple of times), and I think you will enjoy Smith. As far as weather goes in October it can be hit or miss. Typically its pretty nice like Boise. Nights are cold, but the days can warm up nicely. Smith sits in a bit of a rain shadow so even if some weather moves in it can still be pretty good. Some great places to hide from the winds if that ends up being a factor.

As for camping, there is an area there for camping but have never heard of them not allowing someone to sleep in their car at the campsite. I think they are referring to the parking area for day use.

Most places have stairs to the base of the climbs. Trails like misery ridge are tough to get up and over but you can also just follow the river around the point to the back side and that is easy, just long. The trail up to the Marsupials is also tough (Burma Road).

I try to get out to Smith on Weekends. If your there I would be happy to show you around. I am also happy to recommend some routes if you let me know what your looking for. I pretty much stick to Sport routes up to the 5.10 range, so if your looking for trad routes I dont have much info for you.

If you’re camping at the bivouac, the no sleeping in the car rule is pretty strictly enforced. I’ve done it in the dead of winter because it was below zero at night and didn’t get caught but a friend of mine has been talked to when caught. Depending on the host, that’s probably all that would happen but they can issue a fine. If you go to skull hollow or blm land you can sleep in the car. I’ll also be out there every weekend in October and would be happy to show you around as well. 

I'd just add a note about steepness. To do any climbing you have to first hike down to the river then cross it. It's not a strenuous hike, but it is a drop of about 100 feet in a short distance. I don't think there's any way around that.

Once you're down at river level, then as Tom and bbker say, there are usually steps up to the climbs, and if you want to get to the far side then you can either do the (steep) misery ridge trail, or take the flat but longer route along the river. It's a nice walk so no big loss there.

Edit: I just noticed that on Google maps, when you zoom in, morning glory wall, the Christian brothers, etc., are all labelled! Pretty cool.

Helen,  I may have just picked the wrong routes, but it seemed to me that at least some of the sport routes (including those below 5.10a) are "set" to stick clip the first bolt. I know I went off to do a 5.8 and did the 5.10 next to it because the 5.8 had too long a run-out (for me to risk a ground fall) whereas the 5.10 was better protected.  On another popular climb ( 5.7 - 5.8 ? I forget which) a friend lent me a stick clip to clip B#1.

I have bad knees too, and don't recall any issue with the trail down (or back up) to the river. Hundreds of hikers do it every weekend, in addition to a few of us "older" climbers.

I agree with Robert, a stick clip is a must. The distance to many of the first bolts is significant and landings are often on slopes. If you don't have a stick clip, Red Point climbing shop about five minutes from Smith rents them for $4 a day. I usually stick clip the first two. Its never worth an initial fall for me and many climbs start tough.

More questions:

I do have a painters pole homemade clip, good for 12' or so. I also have a super clip, but no pole for it yet. I wanted something easy to haul, but that I could add on to. Make it long, or keep it short to haul with me. Any recommends? Stuff in the stores here just isn't great. Also, do I really need 30'??!? That's mentioned for Smith, here and there.

Approaches. How long is 'long', if I choose to take an easier route to something like the Marsupials (in consideration for one of our objectives)?

Thanks for the offers of friendship! I'm meeting my best friend from WA, if things go according to plan, I'll be getting in some "firsts" for me! I expect to spend most of my time with him, but I don't know his schedule yet. It's dark mighty early then, though, so I'd totally be up to meet some of you! And, there's always the possibility something could fall through, and I'd be in need of partners.

Currently, the plan is drive over Friday 10/12, which gives me some daylight to get sorted once I get there. Saturday, mellow climbing. Sunday, a main attraction. Then Monday, the really hard crux of the trip: the drive home when I'm tired and shot from the weekend. That, will feel endless, I'm sure.

Thanks so, so, much! I'm very much aware that I owe much of my climbing to a whole team of people. I think of that often, actually, even while in the act, lol!

Ryan? If you see this? Thanks so much for all your help earlier. I wouldn't have considered this trip without the encouragement and support. 

Best, Helen

Old lady H wrote: More questions:

I do have a painters pole homemade clip, good for 12' or so. I also have a super clip, but no pole for it yet. I wanted something easy to haul, but that I could add on to. Make it long, or keep it short to haul with me. Any recommends? Stuff in the stores here just isn't great. Also, do I really need 30'??!? That's mentioned for Smith, here and there.

Approaches. How long is 'long', if I choose to take an easier route to something like the Marsupials (in consideration for one of our objectives)?

Thanks for the offers of friendship! I'm meeting my best friend from WA, if things go according to plan, I'll be getting in some "firsts" for me! I expect to spend most of my time with him, but I don't know his schedule yet. It's dark mighty early then, though, so I'd totally be up to meet some of you! And, there's always the possibility something could fall through, and I'd be in need of partners.

Currently, the plan is drive over Friday 10/12, which gives me some daylight to get sorted once I get there. Saturday, mellow climbing. Sunday, a main attraction. Then Monday, the really hard crux of the trip: the drive home when I'm tired and shot from the weekend. That, will feel endless, I'm sure.

Thanks so, so, much! I'm very much aware that I owe much of my climbing to a whole team of people. I think of that often, actually, even while in the act, lol!

Ryan? If you see this? Thanks so much for all your help earlier. I wouldn't have considered this trip without the encouragement and support.

Best, Helen

Your 12 foot pole is too short for 98% of routes youll want it on. Just from experience. 

There’s something about Smith that will bring you back but just get ready for crowds. Anyone who tells you just to hike farther is full of shit. It’s a total crapshoot. You may be able to get right on 5 gallon buckets but have to wait in line on Flounder And Cod Rock or vice versa. If I were you I’d save some juice to get up and going Monday. 

Old lady H wrote: More questions:

I do have a painters pole homemade clip, good for 12' or so. I also have a super clip, but no pole for it yet. I wanted something easy to haul, but that I could add on to. Make it long, or keep it short to haul with me. Any recommends? Stuff in the stores here just isn't great. Also, do I really need 30'??!? That's mentioned for Smith, here and there.

Approaches. How long is 'long', if I choose to take an easier route to something like the Marsupials (in consideration for one of our objectives)?

Thanks for the offers of friendship! I'm meeting my best friend from WA, if things go according to plan, I'll be getting in some "firsts" for me! I expect to spend most of my time with him, but I don't know his schedule yet. It's dark mighty early then, though, so I'd totally be up to meet some of you! And, there's always the possibility something could fall through, and I'd be in need of partners.

Currently, the plan is drive over Friday 10/12, which gives me some daylight to get sorted once I get there. Saturday, mellow climbing. Sunday, a main attraction. Then Monday, the really hard crux of the trip: the drive home when I'm tired and shot from the weekend. That, will feel endless, I'm sure.

Thanks so, so, much! I'm very much aware that I owe much of my climbing to a whole team of people. I think of that often, actually, even while in the act, lol!

Ryan? If you see this? Thanks so much for all your help earlier. I wouldn't have considered this trip without the encouragement and support.

Best, Helen

Your 12' stick clip will work for some of the newer routes but many of the classic and popular and older routes that were put up more than a decade ago require a long (20' or more) stick clip. In the popular areas such as the Dihedrals, Morning Glory Wall and the Christian Brothers, there are usually many other climbing groups around with stick clips you could use.

Approaches aren't long (IMO) and most popular areas are 15-20 minutes from the car. The Marsupials are great and require a 30-45 minutes easy hike. All the trails are well maintained and easy to hike. Some of the steeper trails may be a little strenuous but are still well maintained and safe... no talus hopping or sketchy river crossings. There are more tourists than climbers at Smith and the trails are designed for them to use.

The Smith Rock bivy is a great place to camp and has hot showers but sleeping in your vehicle isn't allowed. I've slept in my vehicle in the winter when snow was on the ground but that is a different situation and season. Skull Hollow has a lot of BLM land surrounding it and is about a 13 minute drive from the park. There are a lot of sprinter vans and campers that camp there. 

There are a huge variety of climbs at Smith. Let me know what grades and types of offerings you are looking for and I'll give you a few suggestions if you like. Enjoy Central Oregon!

Hi Helen, I have a telescoping window washing/painters pole that I got at home depot for about $30. I have a small angle head extension on it that makes it much easier to clip when extended and I can reach up about 25 feet, usually just enough to get the first two, which is my comfort zone. In my opinion the Marsupials is fun but its a hell of a hike! It took me and my daughter almost an hour to get out there with a lot of uphill on nice trails. You can find almost everything that is out there closer in. It does get crowded but just keep the guide book handy and keep walking. You will find something open that you can do. And I don't know if your a beer drinker but if you are we have lots and lots of breweries.

Helen, October is usually a good time to be at Smith. If the weather is nice, there will be a crowd, including me! You pegged the weather about right, but October is quite variable. Nighttime temps around 30-40 and anything from 45 to 75 during the day. You just have to chase the sun or shade.

I think folks are exaggerating the need for a 20' pole, but it's true that a 6 footer will not cut it. I have a 12' pole that has worked for all but a couple routes, but I only climb up to 5.9. However, you definitely want a stick clip if you are leading routes anywhere near your limit. The hardest moves are often right off the deck. Often routes start off undercut, then vertical to first bolt, and ease to slab at the anchors. I can think of many routes where the crux is getting to the first bolt.

I haven't added too much to the other responses, but figure I'd chip in my 2 cents since I'm aging and might climb similar grades to you. If you are looking for route suggestions, let me know.

Thanks so much!

Based on my trip to City of Rocks/Castle last week, on that rock at least, I can claim being a solid 5.6, maybe 5.7 on sport lead. Maybe an 8, here and there, 9 would be unlikely. On our local stuff? It's a struggle. Same grade range, 6-8, but I'll most likely have trouble on it somewhere, often the top, or even at the anchors. It's a combination of factors, but mainly height, and legs that don't bend so great.

I'll basically be letting my partner pick the routes, but if he can't make it one or both days, I'll be after both suggestions and partners! In any case, I'd sure be up to meet for dinner and story swapping. Sunset is early then!

On camping, vs car? Honestly, it's the cold, possibility of huge winds, all that sorta stuff that you have to deal with in a tent. The Honda is very comfy for me, and none of that is an issue. Plus? Yes, it's very rare, but I also am not so naive as to think there aren't evil people in a campground. I'd hate to come back in the evening and discover my stuff has grown legs.

EDIT to add: I will most definitely be stick clipping, if I'm trying any leads. I simply can't risk stupid little falls, plus, even with no harm done, compressing my knees that way hurts like hell. I also won't risk anything like 4th class, because the knees have locked up or buckled now and then, and I have no way of knowing when they will go AWOL.

Thanks, all. Helen

Well, some Boise locals have also chimed in that it will be crowded in October. I'll be arriving Friday afternoon, am I toast for camping? Is BLM the Plan B?

After last weekend at City, I can say I am a 5.6-7 climber with some level of confidence. 4' 11" is a real issue sometimes, as well as knees that don't always bend. But, I'm sure a heck of a lot stronger than I was, and a better climber, also.

I don't have my heart set on anything but seeing my friend, making some new ones, and having a good time on some new rock. Which means, I'll happily get on less sought after routes, if they exist in lower grades. My partner's a trad guy, so that should help. I'll want alternates, in any case, as I just don't want to hike an hour in and have nothing to get on.

Thanks again! Dinner, at least, with some of you?

Oh! Is there phone service there? It was a real pain trying to get everyone sorted at City last week. Never did catch up with one lady, and, another person who was trying to catch up with me, ended up rope soloing. He would have been more than welcome to join our group. We met in the parking lot, literally as I was about to head for home! Arghhhh!!

Best, Helen

If you start early you wont have many issues. At the peak of climbing this last spring we started at 6:30 in the morning. Had the place to ourselves for about an hour and it was exponential after that in terms of people. If you start at 10 it will be difficult. Long walk around and you can find stuff. It can also be good to have two sets of climbers set up on different routes and then swap routes.

Happy to share a meal and a beer or two and some stories. I know others may disagree, and I definitely have bias, but the best breweries are in Bend. Assuming breweries are your thing. Redmond is closer with great options as well. And Redpoint Climbing shop has a great beer selection in Terrebonne.

Cell signal is good for the most part. Some places it gets weak but in most of my roaming around there I have had a good signal.

I really don't know about the camping. I live in Bend about 45 minutes from Smith so I have never had to deal with it.

Tom Hickmann wrote: If you start early you wont have many issues. At the peak of climbing this last spring we started at 6:30 in the morning. Had the place to ourselves for about an hour and it was exponential after that in terms of people. If you start at 10 it will be difficult. Long walk around and you can find stuff. It can also be good to have two sets of climbers set up on different routes and then swap routes.

Happy to share a meal and a beer or two and some stories. I know others may disagree, and I definitely have bias, but the best breweries are in Bend. Assuming breweries are your thing. Redmond is closer with great options as well. And Redpoint Climbing shop has a great beer selection in Terrebonne.

Cell signal is good for the most part. Some places it gets weak but in most of my roaming around there I have had a good signal.

I really don't know about the camping. I live in Bend about 45 minutes from Smith so I have never had to deal with it.

Thanks, Tom! Sorry to report, but two non-drinkers. No aversion to buying you a beer, though! Boise has a hefty amount of not just breweries, but distilled stuff, cider...on and on. A great city for a foodie, too!

I really like partnering up as a foursome. Everyone can get more routes in, usually. I'll have to see how my partner's plans shake out. He is coming from PDX area, no idea yet when he will be there, or for how long. I'm hoping two days, but if not, I'll be looking for a mellow, safe, partner!

Best, Helen

Old lady H wrote:  I'll have to see how my partner's plans shake out. He is coming from PDX area, no idea yet when he will be there, or for how long. I'm hoping two days, but if not, I'll be looking for a mellow, safe, partner!

Best, Helen

Helen, isn't that a long way for you (5 hours) to drive without knowing when your partner will be there or for how long:? What kind of "partner" is that?  Man, I couldn't make arrangements with someone so vague and uncommitted.

FrankPS wrote:

Helen, isn't that a long way for you (5 hours) to drive without knowing when your partner will be there or for how long:? What kind of "partner" is that?  Man, I couldn't make arrangements with someone so vague and uncommitted.

Frank, I tried to reply to this at least three times yesterday, deleting each time. 

To answer your question, this is the kind of partner who is a best friend. Who I talk to daily. Who I would tweak a schedule a little to see. Who I trust my life to, in ways few partners have had. Who has saved my life. Literally.

Frank, yes, if I was the stupid, fragile old woman you make me out to be, then yes, the six ​hour drive with no plans or partner, could be construed as foolish. If it were true. 

The reality is, this is still three weeks out. The specifics will be pinned down, and we are doing that now. I also have several other people who have offered to partner, and, as I know just what times my friend will be there, I will also settle my plans with these lovely, helpful people. This also means, if I'm already on the way, or already there, disaster strikes, and my extremely ​dependable friend can't make it, I will still likely find partners I can trust.

People who are helpful. Not hurtful. Sorry you read this so wildly off from reality, Frank. I do count you as a friend on here, and look forward to your posts. Hope you and the crew are all doing well!

Best, Helen

Old lady H wrote:

Thanks, Tom! Sorry to report, but two non-drinkers. No aversion to buying you a beer, though! Boise has a hefty amount of not just breweries, but distilled stuff, cider...on and on. A great city for a foodie, too!

I really like partnering up as a foursome. Everyone can get more routes in, usually. I'll have to see how my partner's plans shake out. He is coming from PDX area, no idea yet when he will be there, or for how long. I'm hoping two days, but if not, I'll be looking for a mellow, safe, partner!

Best, Helen

• No worries, happy to share water and food! I should probably have a few less beers, it would make climbing easier ;). I have no plans at this point, if we are out there happy to share routes.

Tom Hickmann wrote:

• No worries, happy to share water and food! I should probably have a few less beers, it would make climbing easier ;). I have no plans at this point, if we are out there happy to share routes.

Sounds great! I'll pm a phone number down the road. It will be great to get a couple of the ancients from our other thread together. And? I happen to have a traveling stopper at the moment! If it doesn't get placed on the Smith trip, I'll sadly send it on.

All of you who will be there then? I'll definitely pm, from this thread. I love meeting my MP "family"!

You too, Frank. I know I won't get your direction,  unless I'm in full dirtbag status in the future (a real possibility if I live long enough, or get really pissed off, lol) but still, I'd love to meet ya!

Best, Helen

Another camping question. It seems to be based on if there is space to park? Is this day to day? If I get a spot Friday am I good for the weekend? Can my friend then join me later, or only if he luck's out?

Also, I hate to ask, but is theft much of a concern there? With hosts, I'm guessing not, or it would be rare. I'm not leaving "valuables" per se, but just wondering if sleeping bags or that sort of stuff ever grows legs when people are away all day? It would make me sick to lose my stuff coming back at night.

Is Asterisk pass doable roped up? I can't count on not falling as plan A, on approaches. If there are consequences more than just falling over, I have to protect for it, sadly. So far, the only times my knees have locked or buckled, has been on scrambly approaches, coming or going. I've not been dumped on my ass, yet​....

Best, Helen

Where are you going to through Astric (sic) pass? NO need. DO not attempt it unless you are comfortable. The walk around it pretty, beautiful, and easy. Only takes ~30 minutes more.
Super slab, Moscow, Cinnamon Slab (lots of 5.6's in this area). All btw, on the near side of Asterisk.
Don't get talked into Spiderman. I took a 5.13 sport climber who had never climbed trad, he hung on the roof (5.7) for 43 minutes (timed) freaked out, with 3, three! plugged pieces of gear right there! He was SO embare-assed (sic).
If you want to push, on a climb which is isolated, remote, and really fun, have your partner set up a rope on Solar slab. 5.9, but really doable, fun, good practice for Smith.
Bring LOTS of water. Rock-tober is a great time there, start early (i like to start in starlight, beautiful place to see the sunlight start).
There are always exceptions, (theft/thieves) but i have seen climbing gear hanging from the message board in camp for a week. Good peeps.
Have fun.