New and experienced climbers over 50, #3

Lovena Harwood wrote:

Lori, had my crack climbing lesson today with Tino. But first, did several sport leads, which I was really apprehensive at first because I hadn't lead indoors in a year. But once I got on them, it was like riding a bike....so fun! And then onto my crack climbing lesson where I focused on locking off...it made the ascent so much more solid. So many lightbulbs went on in today's lesson! LOL!

Eager to read about your climb today!!!

Hey Lovena!  I’m so glad you have stayed with it. Climbing and golf...what a combo!  Locking off—I wonder if that’s what’s missing in my technique? 

Today was the last day of climbing for the week and it pains me to go home tomorrow. I’m not ready! The weather was perfect and I never saw another climber, even on routes that are popular.

Today we worked on face climbing and I wasn’t feeling strong. I felt like I was grasping at anything just not to fall backwards. So the theme became “Hips to the wall!” And “Commit!” on high steps that felt ridiculously unsupported. Four or five climbs later it was easy. These were 5.9, 5.10 and 5.8. 

Quiet feet, no knees (what? I use them a lot!), no grasping...find it and stick it. We did some mantling when straight up didn’t work for me (but belaying Bob those moves were clearly doable.)

Bob talked continually about safety and leaving ego out of climbing. It doesn’t matter what it is, if it makes you uncomfortable the answer is no. 
I was REALLY surprised and happy that Bob encouraged gym climbing and strength training and said it’s the only way to really climb strong outside (unless you have frequent access to the rock).  No putting down “plastic”. Climb, climb, climb! How refreshing. 
We talked about goals. He suggested I read his book on advanced climbing and learn all the knots and basics before coming back. He also suggested making the lead class at the gym a priority. And it would be fun to meet up again in the winter so we could work some more difficult slab...my favorite. Deal! I really appreciate seeing a plan form for the next several years...

We never climbed The Flake or Sexy Grandma although he said it’s within reach. He knew I wanted it, but had other things to teach first. So I was ok with letting it go.   Hard to drive away from it though, almost couldn’t do it!
Lastly... I still can’t believe I have some endurance now.  We climbed 400 feet today...I could have had a sandwich and kept on going.  4 hours used to be my max...I think 6 would be easy now.
A beautiful week! 

Dallas R wrote: Oh you city folk, Patsy Cline, Loretta Lynn, Johnny Cash, Willie Nelson, Marty Robins, George Straight, and Reba.  We were too far out in the country to go to concerts. 

Didn't discover country until we moved to Oregon in 1972. Waylon Jennings, Tammy Wynette, Waylon Jennings, Conway Twitty, Emmylou Harris, Gram Parsons, Lucinda Williams, but definitely not Marty Robbins. Oh, did I mention Waylon Jennings?

Please don't ask. I'm younger. It's embarrassing who I had "crushes" on. Never got to see anyone at all, BITD, lived in small towns. However, hubby and I saw Arlo here in Boise, on the 50th (yikes!) anniversary of Alice's restaurant, a few years ago. He only does Alice every 10 years now, but tours constantly, or was. A master storyteller and a truly great concert. Highly recommend.

Oh. Hubby bought me a ticket to see Ringo awhile back. My 50th birthday. Great show! The most fun part? Seeing teens, who were as out of control excited to see someone they idolized, all these years later, as teens were way back when.

Best, Helen

So outside of climbing I reconnected with a part of myself I love most and just wanted to leave this here. After the last climb I hopped in the car, rolled down the windows and took off on a nearly deserted back road in the desert looking for a salt mine.  Park ranger had said it’s towards “Amboy”. The farther out I got on that road, 100 degree dry heat, wind...the happier I got.  I could see the salt mine...miles of sheer white desolation in the middle of nowhere, but the longer I drove the farther away it was. My road may have been the old Route 66, but it was leading away from the mine.  

There were no turn outs and only the occasional sign reading Soft Shoulder which I learned the hard way does not mean “pull over here.”   

There are tiny abandoned houses everywhere with windows blown out, doors ajar and fences stripped. Who lived there? When? And how did pioneers ever make it across hundreds of miles of forsaken desert? There are parts of wagons and carts left here and there, but no people. I’m going to find a book or class about this. 

Never got to the salt mine. Maybe coordinates would help?   So next time. BTW, so far NO ONE here teaches map and compass, certainly not the Garmin. They seem to feel that it’s an inborn instinct—the sun is all you need-/and if you have to ask you probably should stay in your car.

that's called "Wonder Valley." It was a crazy mail-ordered land scam back in the day. "House in Sunny California for only $1,000!" kind of thing.

The "salt mine" is just that dry lake bed you found near Amboy. So you made it.

Lori Milas wrote: So outside of climbing I reconnected with a part of myself I love most and just wanted to leave this here. After the last climb I hopped in the car, rolled down the windows and took off on a nearly deserted back road in the desert looking for a salt mine.  Park ranger had said it’s towards “Amboy”. The farther out I got on that road, 100 degree dry heat, wind...the happier I got.  I could see the salt mine...miles of sheer white desolation in the middle of nowhere, but the longer I drove the farther away it was. My road may have been the old Route 66, but it was leading away from the mine.  

There were no turn outs and only the occasional sign reading Soft Shoulder which I learned the hard way does not mean “pull over here.”   

There are tiny abandoned houses everywhere with windows blown out, doors ajar and fences stripped. Who lived there? When? And how did pioneers ever make it across hundreds of miles of forsaken desert? There are parts of wagons and carts left here and there, but no people. I’m going to find a book or class about this.

Never got to the salt mine. Maybe coordinates would help?   So next time. BTW, so far NO ONE here teaches map and compass, certainly not the Garmin. They seem to feel that it’s an inborn instinct—the sun is all you need-/and if you have to ask you probably should stay in your car.

Señor Arroz wrote: that's called "Wonder Valley." It was a crazy mail-ordered land scam back in the day. "House in Sunny California for only $1,000!" kind of thing.

The "salt mine" is just that dry lake bed you found near Amboy. So you made it.

I wanted to get right up to it. I could see trucks and some kind of building somewhere around it and ranger said there was active mining, possibly could get right up to it. Really a haunting scene...

Lori Milas wrote: I was REALLY surprised and happy that Bob encouraged gym climbing and strength training and said it’s the only way to really climb strong outside (unless you have frequent access to the rock).  .... He suggested I read his book on advanced climbing and learn all the knots and basics before coming back. 

We will be back at Momentum Gym in Millcreek (Salt Lake City) Utah during the ski season to keep some climbing ability.  Didn't do that one year and really paid the price.  Of course we prefer frequent access to rock. Mo betta!

What book?

Lori Milas wrote: . Who lived there? When? And how did pioneers ever make it across hundreds of miles of forsaken desert? There are parts of wagons and carts left here and there, but no people.

I am an American West enthusiast.  I don't do formal history education.  But I do take a moment in our travels to marvel at our pioneers.  Whenever we get away from civilization we find relics of folks that have walked the land before us.  Amazing feats of strength and ingenuity.  I find this stuff fascinating, can you imagine the time and effort it took to haul 20 trees 30 miles with only a mule.  I am amazed and enthralled each time I come across these relics.  

By the same token I am in awe of the CCC, Civilian Conservation Corps, 1933-1942.  These men of the depression era did amazing accomplishments without much infrastructure support, basically they built long lasting buildings, bridges, trails, stairs, etc with available natural resources, and these structures have remain viable for over 70 years.

I am in awe of the difficulties our forefathers overcame to accomplish astonishing things.

It's always good to make the last climb in an area that we are visiting a pleasant and rewarding experience.  We went back to one of the beginner areas in Big Cottonwood Canyon for our final romp.  We started off on 5.4 trad 3 pitch that we have climbed before.  Barb led the first and last pitch last time, I led the first and last pitch this time.  Here is a rare picture of Barb following.  

The second pitch is the tricky one, when I led it I had a really hard time getting past a bulge.  The best way is to break right onto the cliff face and climb around it.  Somehow I had managed to wrap the rope completely around the bulge, made rope drag significant.  Barb leading the second pitch today chose a different method, she broke left out over the exposed face on the backside.  She got schooled on rope drag big time.  



This is one of three locations the rope was wrapped around stuff.  Plus, she kept fussing about a huge step over, (she hates step overs), talking about looking down, being exposed, sketchy, scary, etc.  Then she busted a move and continued up.  When she finally reached the anchors and got set up she could not up-rope.  What?  She had wrapped the rope back and forth so many times she didn't have the strength to bring the rope up.  It was an interesting conversation and nobody ever wants to know what I did to solve this.  

Sometimes it's hard to follow stronger climbers, they bust moves that leave you shaking in your boots.  She kept mumbling about a huge step over (which she hates), exposure, and you just gotta trust your feet.  I am psyching myself up for a climber out of sight lead fall.  She finally gets past it and climbs up to the anchors.  Since her last lead fall due to rope drag she's been a little touchy about it and was worried about it here.  As I am following her she had gone off route to the back side and had made some 5.7-8 moves.  She sure makes my life interesting sometimes. 

We got it worked out, here is a picture of Barb belaying me on the short third pitch.


We both led another 5.6 130' climb on the far right of the wall. It was really long. Then Barb led a 5.6 crack up the middle that intersected a different sport route. I did it on a TR.

This area was good for us.  A great mixture of lots of neat stuff.  In the end I got to lead 2  moderates and Barb led another trad route.

We had super fun today.

Dallas...thank you for sharing this adventure! That looks so fun! Do you guys wear out and sleep for days, or are you in your zone now?  Where will you be when winter comes? How about some ice fishing?

One thing I am appreciating about this crew is the level of gratitude and generosity here. We seem to all appreciate how special these experiences and friendships are. If I had only known that the only problem we’d all have is universal deafness I could have relaxed a bit. We’ll just have to play the music around the campfire a little louder.   

I’m glad I’m leaving J Tree with a plan. Part of that plan is more strength training in every way, and I guess more laps.   Suddenly some of the young boulderers want to get out and climb together (trad) and that could be fun. Snow is coming and I’m wondering about cross country something with the Garmin.

Bob fly fishes and there’s not a fish I mentioned that he doesn’t hold the record on. So that’s his other love. Rock climbing and fly fishing-that’s a combo!  One thing I didn’t anticipate about dedicating time to climbing is how selective I have to be to all competing interests—no to gardening, no to another rescue dog, no to other commitments—even no to some climbing gatherings!

I would love to meet in some little mid-western coffee shop one day. (Spend time in small town Ok or Mo - bucket list). Thinking Oklahoma is just about a mid point for Lovena and me—John can host us, if he doesn’t hear his mother calling first.   

Fall/winter plans anyone?

Dallas R wrote:

We will be back at Momentum Gym in Millcreek (Salt Lake City) Utah during the ski season to keep some climbing ability.  Didn't do that one year and really paid the price.  Of course we prefer frequent access to rock. Mo betta!

What book?

Lori Milas wrote: Dallas...thank you for sharing this adventure! That looks so fun! Do you guys wear out and sleep for days, or are you in your zone now?  Where will you be when winter comes? How about some ice fishing?

LOL, that's why we work, to get rested up.  Since we are fully retired we don't have to rush or push, we can putz.  What we don't get done today we can do tomorrow.  Somedays we only climb one route and have had enough, other days, like yesterday, 5 pitches.

Winter will be here in Park City, UT.  We work on the weekend and play during the week.  Barb likes to work at the ticket booth while I greet folks in the ticket line and try to keep them from killing each other.  We ski a couple of days then go to the gym a couple of days, then go snow shoeing.  We like to play in the snow.  I tried ice fishing once, froze because I wasn't up and moving around.

Rock climbing and fly fishing-that’s a combo!  One thing I didn’t anticipate about dedicating time to climbing is how selective I have to be to all competing interests—no to gardening, no to another rescue dog, no to other commitments—even no to some climbing gatherings!

We like diversity, yes climbing has become a huge part of our life, but we do other things also, including fly fishing, hiking, motorcycle riding, white water rafting, skiing, snow shoeing, snow-mobile riding (we rent), traveling and sightseeing.  

Meet Kota our rescued dog.

Lori Milas wrote:

Hey Lovena!  I’m so glad you have stayed with it. Climbing and golf...what a combo!  Locking off—I wonder if that’s what’s missing in my technique? 

Today was the last day of climbing for the week and it pains me to go home tomorrow. I’m not ready! The weather was perfect and I never saw another climber, even on routes that are popular.

Today we worked on face climbing and I wasn’t feeling strong. I felt like I was grasping at anything just not to fall backwards. So the theme became “Hips to the wall!” And “Commit!” on high steps that felt ridiculously unsupported. Four or five climbs later it was easy. These were 5.9, 5.10 and 5.8. 

Quiet feet, no knees (what? I use them a lot!), no grasping...find it and stick it. We did some mantling when straight up didn’t work for me (but belaying Bob those moves were clearly doable.)

Bob talked continually about safety and leaving ego out of climbing. It doesn’t matter what it is, if it makes you uncomfortable the answer is no. 
I was REALLY surprised and happy that Bob encouraged gym climbing and strength training and said it’s the only way to really climb strong outside (unless you have frequent access to the rock).  No putting down “plastic”. Climb, climb, climb! How refreshing. 
We talked about goals. He suggested I read his book on advanced climbing and learn all the knots and basics before coming back. He also suggested making the lead class at the gym a priority. And it would be fun to meet up again in the winter so we could work some more difficult slab...my favorite. Deal! I really appreciate seeing a plan form for the next several years...

We never climbed The Flake or Sexy Grandma although he said it’s within reach. He knew I wanted it, but had other things to teach first. So I was ok with letting it go.   Hard to drive away from it though, almost couldn’t do it!
Lastly... I still can’t believe I have some endurance now.  We climbed 400 feet today...I could have had a sandwich and kept on going.  4 hours used to be my max...I think 6 would be easy now.
A beautiful week! 

Hi Lori, loved my lesson yesterday! I'm slowing getting this lockoff thing. Mind has to make my upper body lockoff so I can get my feet up. Then lockoff the lower portion of my body so I can move my hands up. The real deal for me was being able to lockoff everything with two feet and one hand jammed in crack while moving one hand up the crack. I was surprised I could do it! The locking off helps in other climbing on different terrains as well. Tino says it'll help me a lot in ice climbing...yay can't wait for winter! LOL! Golf is similar to climbing...lots of folks think its all strength in arms to be able to hit a golf ball far, but that so untrue. It's strength in the core and legs that will help to transfer more power when rotating to hit the golf ball. But I do have to work on cardio, especially since I have asthma. *sigh*

From your photos the weather looks so gorgeous. I too was sad when I had to leave Joshua Tree, but I knew I can always return. Wow, sounds like you had a great lesson with Bob. A gem to find good guides and climbing teachers. So many out there that can climb the shit out of anything, but can't teach worth a damn. You're so highly motivated, you will get on Flakey and Sexy Grandma soon, I know it!

Dallas R wrote:
LOL, that's why we work, to get rested up.  Since we are fully retired we don't have to rush or push, we can putz.  What we don't get done today we can do tomorrow.  Somedays we only climb one route and have had enough, other days, like yesterday, 5 pitches.

Meet Kota our rescued dog.

Putz! No rush, no worries, yes!!!!

That's a sweet furbaby!

Dallas R wrote: 

I am in awe of the difficulties our forefathers overcame to accomplish astonishing things.

Dallas, since it seems you're in Utah right now I highly recommend checking this place out. Preferably right before dusk and into a rising moon. Possibly the saddest place I've ever been.
Iosepa Ghost Town

Lori, Dallas (and others who may be interested), are you familiar with High Country News? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_…  I've subscribed for years. It's all about the West and includes articles about remote places and their history. The current issue has a long feature article about a young woman who lives in a desert "ghost town" near Moab. Dallas, even if you don' t have a mailing address, it's available online.  

Steorts Ridge Big Cottonwood canyon 5.6 classic solo.

Señor Arroz wrote:Dallas, since it seems you're in Utah right now I highly recommend checking this place out. Preferably right before dusk and into a rising moon. Possibly the saddest place I've ever been. Iosepa Ghost Town

Interesting sounding place.  As we travel and hike about we often find "ghost towns", sometimes no more than a foundation of a log cabin that at one time was a thriving trading post.  

Jeffrey Constine wrote:

Steorts Ridge Big Cottonwood canyon 5.6 classic solo.

We have climbed this and Jig's Up next door.  I can see the appeal of soloing this area, lots of good holds, only a small amount of friable rock.  There was a 16 year old kid soloing RundleHorn near Banff when were there last summer.  5.5, 11 pitch sport.  There were a couple of French climbers on the route also, they thought the kid had lost his mind.  He had a rope and some slings in case he got in over his head, otherwise he was cool and competent.

I used to challenge mother nature quite frequently, but I've been slapped by her a couple of times so I am no longer as willing to do things that may hurt, alot.

Put my friend Peter Hayes's ashes up there behind the big flake in the middle on 2015. Sad day on Steorts Ridge.

Dallas R wrote:
Interesting sounding place.  As we travel and hike about we often find "ghost towns", sometimes no more than a foundation of a log cabin that at one time was a thriving trading post.  

Yeah, the gist of it is that way back in the early days of SLC a bunch of Hawaiians were converted to Mormanism and then invited to come to the "promised land" from Hawaii. They came to Utah but weren't allowed to integrate into the "white" Morman communities and were, instead, given their own settlement way out just off the Great Bonneville Salt Flats. As it turns out, people from tropical islands weren't particularly well suited to homesteading in desolate Utah and most of them died in the first winter. The cemetery there is just heartbreaking.