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What gloves do you use for ice climbing?

Original Post
Yannick Lockhead · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 60

It's that dreaded time in every ice climber's life - time for replacing gloves.  I am in desperate need of new gloves but the OR glove model I've been using for the last 4 or 5 seasons is no longer available.  None of the current OR gloves are ice-specific and/or they all feel too bulky.  Same with BD - the Terminator is close but has a freakishly long pinky finger while their other offerings are too pooffy.  

I am trying to salvage my current OR gloves with stitching and shoe goo but I really need new gloves.  

I looking for something that will provide adequate warmth from 0C (32F) to -15C (~0F).  Dexterity is a priority - I can deal with cold hands but I still need an insulated glove, not a dry-tooling glove.  I don't want a waterproof glove or something too bulky since the inside just gets wet and takes too long to dry.  Knuckle padding would be a bonus.  

What do you use?

Andrew Blease · · Bartlett, NH · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 470

I've had good luck with the OR Stormtracker. It's pretty basic and gets the job done just fine for me. 

https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/en/mens/mens-gloves/mens-alpine-gloves/mens-stormtracker-sensor-gloves/p/2448810104007

Melanie Shea · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10

1. Warmer and of your range = OR Alibi II

2. Colder end = I like my arcteryx Alpha fl gloves but a lot of people don't. I've borrowed some Alpime allibi's and liked them if that suits you more.

Sky Cripp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

For the coldest days I have a pair of OR Project that I really like. For warmer days I actually use a pair of football receiver gloves that I grabbed from target for $15. Unorthodox, but the grip is absolutely ridiculous. 

Dallin Carey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 177

+1 for the OR Project glove. Decently warm and never got too wet for me. Dexterity is fine, placing screws and tying/untying knots was never a hassle. If there is a possibility I might have to place smaller cams and nuts I'll switch to a thinner glove though. Unfortunately I think OR only made them for a season or two before discontinuing them in favor of their new Bitterblaze glove, which seem a bit bulkier. 

Yannick Lockhead · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 60
Dallin Carey wrote: +1 for the OR Project glove. Decently warm and never got too wet for me. Dexterity is fine, placing screws and tying/untying knots was never a hassle. If there is a possibility I might have to place smaller cams and nuts I'll switch to a thinner glove though. Unfortunately I think OR only made them for a season or two before discontinuing them in favor of their new Bitterblaze glove, which seem a bit bulkier. 

That's the glove!  Perfect combination of dexterity and warmth.  Too bad it's discontinued.  The OR website defaults to Canadian settings and I can't find the OR Bitterblaze glove on there.  I'll have to order from the US OR website.  

Does anyone know if the size stayed true to the older Project?  I have Medium Project and they were perfect.  
Nick Baker · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 86

Let me give you a couple of cheap suggestions, given the short life of ice climbing gloves and the need for multiple pairs in a day. I bought these at the end of last season and have not climbed in them yet, but have used them for winter sports a bit, and done test clips.

  1. Atlas temres gloves- under 20$, . breathable insulated rubber gloves.  Basically Japanese fishing gloves.  Perfect for wet ice days.   If you combine with nitrile gloves baselayer you can climb all day long and never wet a pair of gloves out.  I used a pair to great effect on Denali this year, keeping my hands warm and dry while building  snow walls. Dexterity is 6.5/10 but poor sensitivity, fine for moderate leading. -https.amazon.com/Atlas-Waterproof-Breathable-Technology-Insulation/dp/B015WU52MI
  2. Hestra czone Kobalt winter work glove. Around 15$. Looking dope in big blue gloves not your thing?  These are breathable waterproof (czone is gortex like membrane) leather work gloves for around 15$.  Part of hestras work line, so no "affluent sport" tax you get buying purpose made stuff.  You can get them in long and short cuff I think.  Dexterity is 7 out of 10. amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NOCHR…;qid=1536619590&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65
  3. On the expensive side of things I bought these as they fit better than any glove I ever tried on (or glove fit me awful).   https://www.thenorthface.com/shop/summit-g3-insulated-gloves-nf0a3359#hero=0
Mic W · · Drake, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 10
swaghole wrote:

That's the glove!  Perfect combination of dexterity and warmth.  Too bad it's discontinued.  The OR website defaults to Canadian settings and I can't find the OR Bitterblaze glove on there.  I'll have to order from the US OR website.  

Does anyone know if the size stayed true to the older Project?  I have Medium Project and they were perfect.  

The Bitterblaze should be available soon.  They haven't launched the new winter gear yet on the website. Should be up for fall. 

AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255

I used these two gloves last winter & I was very impressed with their durability, waterproofness & warmth - lightly insulated with lead climbing in mind.  I also own the Project Gloves, but they're a bit beefy for me.

1. Rab Vengeance Glove - Slightly more insulated
2. Rab Vendetta Glove

Dallin Carey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 177
  1. Micaiah . wrote: 

The Bitterblaze should be available soon.  They haven't launched the new winter gear yet on the website. Should be up for fall. 

The Bitterblaze are available now. They launched just before Labor Day. 

Bitterblaze Gloves
Chris W · · Burlington, VT · Joined May 2015 · Points: 233

Last season I used the CAMP Gecko LIght and Gecko Hot Gloves. I loved them both with the Lights being preferred when I can use them. I also have a pair of OR Stormtrackers I break out sometimes, but I tend to find the CAMP gloves give me similar dexterity with more warmth

https://www.camp-usa.com/outdoor/product/outlet/geko-light-gloves/
https://www.camp-usa.com/outdoor/product/outlet/g-hot-dry-gloves-3/

This year they also I have a now CAMP Gecko Ice, I have not splurged for it yet... But i do love the light and hot dry gloves.

Greg Miller · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 30

I prefer Rab's gloves, have gotten a lot of good use out of their Baltoro's in your desired temperature range (also, their finger lengths match mine perfectly). Also, some previous suggestions folks have made:
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113798727/ice-climbing-glove-suggestions

Bogdan Petre · · West Lebanon, NH · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 1,098

Got a pair of size medium OR project gloves, brand new, never used, tags still on, which I'd sell for $80 + shipping.

I would have needed a size small, but I bought one of the last pairs OR had, and it was a medium. The gloves look sick and it seems there might be some demand for them from people who can't have them retail anymore. If you're interested DM me. Otherwise I'll just go through the hassle of returning them, but it sounded like there might be some people here who'd like to get their hands on a pair, so thought I'd post (plus that means you pay shipping, and not me like if I'd return them :D).

David S · · Lewiston, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

Upon Nick B's recommendation, I picked up a pair of Hestra czone Kobalt winter work glove....for less than $20, they seem to be a great glove on the lighter end of the spectrum.

Jason4Too · · Bellingham, Washington · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I'm not an ice climber but I spent a lot of time in OR's Project gloves last year.  I like the combination of some insulation on the back of the hand with the thin palm for dexterity for handling avalanche tools, handlebars, and ski poles when touring.  I wore a small hole in the thumb from cleaning snow and ice out of my split board bindings eventually but they are still my favorite gloves.  

This year I picked up the Bitterblaze and the sizing seems to be consistent but it's hard to really tell since I'm comparing a really well broken in pair of gloves to a stiff new pair.  The aerogel insert in the palm is a little strange as I can feel the edge of it especially in the ends of the fingers but if it works as well as claimed then that is a small inconvenience.  They cut back a bit on the leather around the tips of each finger but also eliminated the seam that was between the knuckles.

I also have the new Mixalot gloves.  I wanted a pair of high grip, high dexterity gloves for ski touring and wandering around with an ice axe in hand.  The Stormtrackers were way too warm for me last year.  These feel great so far but I suspect that they will be hard to get back into once my hand is wet.  The cuff doesn't have a split in it to open up very wide and I have some thick hands.  The XL fits me well with just a hint of extra room in the pinky and a snug fit everywhere else.  The Stormtrackers in XL were way too big on me last year but the Project and the Bitterblaze both fit me in XL.

Hope this helps.

Ken G · · Meyers, CA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 165

I have been using standard insulated elk skin gloves for years. I get them at cabelas  or gander mountain type store. I will go in try on every pair for the perfect fit then I treat them with nik wax for leather boots. I almost always have two pairs, wearing one and another in my coat staying warm and dry, if one pair starts to get wet I switch them out before they are soaked. Although usually not an issue unless the nik wax is worn off.

Must get elk skin as it is tougher than deer skin and more supple than cow hide. I have used this setup in sub zero temps in northern Minnesota and mild temp in the Sierra Nevada with no issues. Of course usually have a pair of belay gloves or mitts on my harness just in case but typically don’t use them. I make sure to dress my body well so my hands stay warmer.  I also use this combo for backcountry ski touring. 

You don’t need some fancy designer gloves to climb ice and stay warm dry. Ski patrollers, guides and such have been wearing gloves like this for ages. 

Jon Browher · · Wolfeboro, NH · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 340

Flylow Tough Guy gloves are not waterproof but have the best dexterity of any insulated glove I have ever used. Also can be found for under 30$. Good for dry days or just pack an extra pair 

Melanie Shea · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10

Mountain Equipment direkt gloves

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

90% of the time a thin pair of BD liner gloves.

If it's wet and somewhat warm, then neoprene like the patagonia R1 glove.  I can throw a pair of cheap work gloves one the top for belays so I dont chew up the neoprene ones.  

If it's colder or something lower angle with snowy ramps then the BD punisher or RAB latok

Alex Styp · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 75

For a day in rmnp, I bring a pair of OR aretes w/ upgraded liners (double for approach gloves and belay), a pair of under armour cold weather golf gloves for leads if temps allow, a pair of storm trackers (colder approach and lead glove), and a pair of projects (DM) as a backup waterproof glove and very warm lead glove. This way I have a suitable backup glove for every phase of the day as well as a glove appropriate for max dexterity in all conditions.

JD · · Southern AZ · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 95

My fav pair of gloves 

simmsfishing.com/shop/gear/gloves/guide-windbloc-flex-glove

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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